26 Coupe Windshield Corrosion

[BarnesvilleT]

I am not sure if this can be fixed. The frame is pretty solid and the hinge is working good.
The window slot is eaten out pretty bad all along the bottom and up the sides. I was thinking of trying
to repair with fiberglass but have not tried anything yet. I am not a pro at doing bodywork but will try anything.
Has anyone any thoughts on either repairing or looking for a replacement.

Thanks,
Bill H

[Humblej]

I do not think that is repairable. Start looking for a replacement.

[Harvey Bergstrom]

I had the very same problem with my ‘24 Touring. I am trying to restore this car & want it to look great. I ordered a new bottom frame from Lang’s. Although very nice repro, they are not cheap, but anything good is not cheap. Good luck to you!

[Harvey Bergstrom]

Also you may need to get new brass channel. When installing this, put brass around glass, then start the glass with brass installed into frame working in down slowly use rubber mallet to tap very carefully until seated. Patience will be on your side.

[Kevin Pharis]

Even tho the open cars have round windshield frames, the recessed inner channel profile is very similar. If fixing what you have is the best option, I would consider making 2 sheet metal profiles. One that would start at the inner portion of the frame and Z down into the channel floor. The other would start at the face of the frame, double over to form a hem, then a raised tab to form the floor of the channel. The 2 profiles would be lapped at the floor of the channel and tack welded together.

Each of these profiles would be very easy to form on a sheet metal brake, and would allow you to bring the welding out to an accessible location. Realizing this description may only seem clear to me… I’ll draw up a sketch in a bit

[BarnesvilleT]

I like those ideas. I am still going to look for a replacement as suggested but these responses give
me some ideas on how to fix it.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

Bill

[jiminbartow]

It can be repaired. The windshield frame of my ‘26 coupe was like yours when I bought it in 1970 and I repaired it 53 years ago using the following technique. Fill the hollow areas of the frame behind the pitted metal with 2 part Aluminum Devcon 10610 epoxy putty. It is okay to drill holes for easier access to the interior as the holes can be filled, smoothed over and squared off with putty. Once mixed at a 4:1 ratio, press it into the cavities with a putty knife until full, then smooth the surface, flush with the original pitted surface. Before it totally cures, about an hour after application, you can smooth it by stroking with a wet finger until it is as smooth as glass. After 16 hours, when totally cured, it is as hard as steel and can even be machined. Do not get any in the glass channel. If done correctly, the frame will be stronger than new and once painted, you will not be able to tell it from a new one. I have used Aluminum Devcon for over 53 years and swear by it. It is expensive, but very much worth it. You can get it from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). Search “Devcon epoxy putty”. Be sure to get the 1 lb. size that takes 16 hours to fully cure. Get the dark grey putty. Not the liquid. Good Luck. Jim Patrick

[BarnesvilleT]

Thanks for sending that idea using the filler. I have used that before on a plane and it does work well.
Have a few options to try. Thanks to all who answered.

Bill H