New T owner looking for some advice

[JR Ewing]

Jerry,
The one I ordered is the “waterproof” version from Langs. I was told it’s plastic. I’m still curious about the soldering of the terminals to the bolts. I guess either way it’ll work.

skyhunter,
I would like one too but since they are no longer available, I plan to wire my own. It’s just a diode and a light bulb.

[TRDxB2]

Got another question if you all don’t mind. I’ve decided to rebuild the coil box. The wood and contacts looked to be in decent shape but I pulled it out and found that the board had a decent bow to it. This is probably the reason the previous owner jammed so many wooden shims in between the box and coils. I ordered the full rebuild kit and I have been reading through previous posts discussing a coil box rebuild. I came across a post that talked about soldering the contacts to the carriage bolts. I understand the reasoning, but I am just wondering if this was done by Ford as well. I’m also wondering if there should be any concern of annealing the contacts. I doubt the bronze will get hot enough to do so, but just wanted to get some opinions on doing it this way. The box that was in my car did not have soldered contacts.

Other than that, I’m making progress. My coils and carburetor are out for rebuild. I have plenty of parts on the way to hopefully get this thing running. I’m still hoping to find some used tires just because new will stand out like a sore thumb on this vehicle, but I’ve still got plenty to do before I’ll need roadworthy tires on it anyways. Thanks!

1918 is no-man's land for coil box styles (plus people change things overtime)- is the ignition switch on the box or the dash?

If you ordered the wood rebuild kit you might be able to return it for the Waterproof kit plus the individual parts needed (like in the wood kit).
As another option you would need to waterproof the wood with a penetrating sealant. We all have our preferences - I use Minwax Wood Harndner. You'll see the first coat or two get sucked into the wood.
You do need to solder the wire to the bottom and the carriage bolt for voltage input. Soldering to the other carriage bolts has it pros & cons. While it gives a better contact it also helps spinning the bolt in the contact for those who over-tighten the nut over the porcelain & for those that didn't wrench hold that nut when tightening the nut over the wire. Con - need to just get a little solder over the cap of the bolt making sure that you don't get anything on the tongue of the contact to affect its spring
The wire the runs under the bottom plate fits into a groove. Originals had an strip of insulator over it, you can silicon fill it or waterproof tape it
The diagram is looking at the underside of the wood showing the wires.

[JR Ewing]

I did order the plastic kit, or at least what was advertised as the “waterproof” kit on Langs website. Over the phone I was told it is made from plastic. In addition to the plastic box panels, I ordered all the hardware and contacts for a complete rebuild. I did see that I’ll need to solder the wires to the terminal bolts. I just was unsure if the other bolts needed to be soldered to the new bronze contacts.

My coil box aligns with what came in 1918 models. It does have the switch on the face of the box. Thanks for the replies.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

If it has not been mentioned, if your original spring clips are still in good shape, then re-use them instead of using the new ones. Don't worry about the heat of soldering as long as you only heat just enough to flow the solder. If you use a torch, be certain it's a small one and apply heat to the bolt, not directly to the spring, while holding the solder in contact with the joint. Remove the heat the moment the solder flows. If you have a large soldering iron/gun that might be even better.

[JR Ewing]

If it has not been mentioned, if your original spring clips are still in good shape, then re-use them instead of using the new ones. Don't worry about the heat of soldering as long as you only heat just enough to flow the solder. If you use a torch, be certain it's a small one and apply heat to the bolt, not directly to the spring, while holding the solder in contact with the joint. Remove the heat the moment the solder flows. If you have a large soldering iron/gun that might be even better.

Langs advertises their spring clips as “original factory quality bronze” and states they are the exact same shape and material as the factory ones. Is this incorrect?

I don’t know how to tell if the ones that came out of my car are original or not. The bottom one looks like it may have been replaced at some point. The individual spring clips are decent, but a couple are missing a finger.

[skyhunter]

Jerry,
The one I ordered is the “waterproof” version from Langs. I was told it’s plastic. I’m still curious about the soldering of the terminals to the bolts. I guess either way it’ll work.

skyhunter,
I would like one too but since they are no longer available, I plan to wire my own. It’s just a diode and a light bulb.

I don't even know how to spell diode.

[jiminbartow]

After 53 years of owning my 1926 coupe and, in that time, trying virtually every type of timer, I have come full circle and am now back to the original roller timer that came on my T. My T has always run the best using a roller type timer. Snyder’s (www.Snydersantiqueauto.com) has a great roller type timer I highly recommend. Part number T-3165. Jim Patrick

IMG_8279.jpeg (42.33 KiB) Viewed 2350 times

[Oldav8tor]

Original coil box springs feel more rigid and have a square hole to accept the shoulder of the original bolts. The cheaper repops I've seen are noticeably softer and have a round hole that has to be modified a bit to get them to fit. I've used the cheap ones to double up with the originals to give them a little more strength. No problems due to poor contacts over the last few thousand miles.

[JR Ewing]

The following is a description from Langs website. They claim they no longer sell the cheap ones that would lose spring tension. Also, these feature the square holes. Fingers crossed!

Langs Description:
The bronze metal chemistry and temper are exactly the same as originally supplied by Ford and the parts are carefully formed to the correct shape per Ford drawings to insure proper electrical contact with the coil unit side and bottom terminals.

Unlike other reproduction spring contacts being sold, these contacts will not fatigue and loose their springiness. These go on giving your coils very good electrical contact. (The other sets being sold do not have this ability and will allow the coils to lose contact as you travel down the road)
-Made exactly to Ford drawings
-Correct metal chemistry
-Correct metal tempering
-Correct metal forming

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

The following is a description from Langs website. They claim they no longer sell the cheap ones that would lose spring tension. Also, these feature the square holes. Fingers crossed!

Langs Description:
The bronze metal chemistry and temper are exactly the same as originally supplied by Ford and the parts are carefully formed to the correct shape per Ford drawings to insure proper electrical contact with the coil unit side and bottom terminals.

Unlike other reproduction spring contacts being sold, these contacts will not fatigue and loose their springiness. These go on giving your coils very good electrical contact. (The other sets being sold do not have this ability and will allow the coils to lose contact as you travel down the road)
-Made exactly to Ford drawings
-Correct metal chemistry
-Correct metal tempering
-Correct metal forming

Looks like a definite improvement! Good to see.

[JR Ewing]

Only one way to find out.

[skyhunter]

I did order the plastic kit, or at least what was advertised as the “waterproof” kit on Langs website. Over the phone I was told it is made from plastic. In addition to the plastic box panels, I ordered all the hardware and contacts for a complete rebuild. I did see that I’ll need to solder the wires to the terminal bolts. I just was unsure if the other bolts needed to be soldered to the new bronze contacts.

My coil box aligns with what came in 1918 models. It does have the switch on the face of the box. Thanks for the replies.

Good video

www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ejHesSttcs&lis ... _&index=10

[JR Ewing]

I did watch that video. I am just waiting for parts to arrive. It shouldn't be long before I see if this old automobile will run. I am surprised how intact this car is for 106 years old. It's a pretty honest car. Not much rust at all and only a couple old repairs. For now, I just plan to preserve the patina and get it road worthy. I will continue to update my progress if you all are interested.

[Oldav8tor]

I don't know how I missed this but the contacts kit sold by Langs is supposed to be a match both physically and metallurgically to the originals, which Snyders is not. Looking at the photos they look correct. They cost more but in the long run I think they're worth it. PN 5001CONBQ

[JR Ewing]

I don't know how I missed this but the contacts kit sold by Langs is supposed to be a match both physically and metallurgically to the originals, which Snyders is not. Looking at the photos they look correct. They cost more but in the long run I think they're worth it. PN 5001CONBQ

I will have them this week and will share my honest thoughts on quality.

[TWrenn]

After 53 years of owning my 1926 coupe and, in that time, trying virtually every type of timer, I have come full circle and am now back to the original roller timer that came on my T. My T has always run the best using a roller type timer. Snyder’s (www.Snydersantiqueauto.com) has a great roller type timer I highly recommend. Part number T-3165. Jim Patrick


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IMG_8279.jpeg

I will always respect an individuals preference of "stuff" but again I have to say after trying just about all the different timers, for me at least, Tony Wiltshire's (RIP) has by far been the best, smoothest running and reliable of them all. I'm doing my best to keep his legacy going. Just finished a run of 41 of the rectangular brushes for many fellas, about to "call out" to see if there's enough need for at least another run of 12 of the round brush version.

[Steve Jelf]

I want one of those!!

https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG102.html

[JR Ewing]

I want one of those!!

https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG102.html

Thanks Steve. I am new to Model Ts and your website has been very helpful for guys like me. Glad to see you’re back on the forum and on the road to recovery.

[JR Ewing]

I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. I thought I should take a moment and post an update on my project that you all have been so helpful with.

Today I started the car for the first time since I became its owner. I’m not sure when the last time it ran was, but it ran so well, I decided to drive it, just around my property anyways. It runs and drives well. I have to make some adjustments here and there but it’s great to see it run and drive.

Thank you to all those who helped me get to this point.