Any advice on brush painting a T?

[colonelpowers]

I am thinking about a brush paint job on my T. Any advice on paint, techniques,etc.? I am not ready to take it apart and do it the right way yet. I know that a lot of cars were just painted with whatever was handy. I don't want it to look horrible, just better. If the car had a nice patina I would just leave it alone but it doesn't. It looks like whoever painted it decades ago didn't sand or prime before it was painted over an older repaint. Now, though a straight and solid car, it looks a little calico. Any advice would be welcomed. You folks are always a blessing and are greatly appreciated.

[Allan]

Bush painting can be entirely satifactory. It is the process used on all vehicles prior to the advent of the spray gun.

Like all paint finishes, you should spend time sanding down the substrate to get it as smooth as possible. Te paint should be spirit based enamel. Use the best quality brush you can buy, and apply the paint as thinned down as you can without getting runs. A paint thinner/brushing extender like Penetrol helps with this. Two thin coats are better than one heavy coat. A rubdown after the second coat, and a third coat will make an even better job.

There are advantages to using enamel. It will go on over almost any substrate without adverse reactions. It brushes out well and produces a smooth, glossy finish. It is about as cheap as any paint you could use. It does not need extensive masking of nearby components.

Disadvantages are the extended drying time. It will also have to be entirely removed if you later decide to go to a different auto paint system, but that should be the case with what is already there.

Others will have other ideas. Filter them and have a go.

Allan from down under.

[Charlie B in N.J.]

Popular Mechanics I believe it was used to run a series called Gus Wilson’s Model Garage. It started out way back in the late 1920’s as a do it yourself shade tree mechanic information series. Google Gus Wilson and it’ll pop right up check the list for some thing like Gus paints his sedan. Great tips to hand paint your car using a brush and how t was done way back when.

[TRDxB2]

Popular Mechanics I believe it was used to run a series called Gus Wilson’s Model Garage. It started out way back in the late 1920’s as a do it yourself shade tree mechanic information series. Google Gus Wilson and it’ll pop right up check the list for some thing like Gus paints his sedan. Great tips to hand paint your car using a brush and how t was done way back when.

And here is his story on Brush Painting https://gus-stories.org/january_1926.htm

.... "Sure it's good paint! Didn't I mix it myself? But if you'll take a good look at this paint brush you'll see why the paint flows so smoothly. That's no 39-cent bargain sale brush made out of pig's whiskers stuck in the handle with glue. No, sir! It's pure badger hair set in rubber, and I'd hate to tell you how much money I parted with to acquire it," Gus stated with the enthusiastic pride of a good workman in a fine tool.

"So the brush makes a lot of difference, does it?" Joe asked with interest. "Why, I thought that anything with bristles in it would do. I'd have used a cheap brush that I could afford to throw away after I'd finished and save myself the trouble of cleaning it."

[John E. Guitar]

That’s a great article and it covers the important stuff people forget like eliminating dust.

[TWrenn]

As Frank expanded on that article and said...yes it's ALL in the brush. I've always used a certain type of foam brush for varnishes for such success I've had people swear I either sprayed it on or it was some sort of plastic laminate. I've only tried it once with enamel with slightly less success, partly because of "weather conditions" (heat 'n humdity) and perhaps I didn't thin it enough. Plus, if you do use a foam brush, get the kind with wooden handles, NOT the plastic handle style, the wood handle brushes are a bit more "dense" and leave far less opportunity for air bubbles, which you will still get, but most flow out on their own, but I've also "blown them out" with as "dry of a mouth" as I could do and had great results. Otherwise, you'll need a super super expensive bristle brush and in all cases, you lay down the coat ONCE and do not keep "stroking it" back and forth. Keep a wet edge too is paramount, and often very difficult.

[David Mazza]

After a few coats, if not perfect some time with some very fine sandpaper and soapy water will correct the boo boos, then run a buffer over the whole thing. It will probably be so nice after that you’ll never want to do it the expensive way again. And if it gets damaged, put on more paint, wet sand and re polish.

[Norman Kling]

Be sure to get an Exterior enamel. This kind will endure weather and sun much better than interior paint. Depending on where you live the type of mineral paint might not be available. California has very strict laws concerning what kinds of paint can be used. Also don't paint in windy weather or you might get a lot of dust on the paint before it dries.
Norm

[WayneJ]

Google $50 Rustoleum Paint Job. You will find directions and examples of paint jobs made with thinned down Rustoleum paint applied with a high density foam roller, with a foam brush used to flatten out any drips and runs while the paint is still wet. (It helps if one person is using the roller and a second person is following up with the foam brush to immediately address any runs). I used this method to paint the body of my Model T, eight years ago, and I am satisfied with the results. With inflation, you will spend more than $50, but you can still get a paint job without expensive equipment.

[ThreePedalTapDancer]

The best brush or roller is imperative. I learned this lesson early in my college years, when I decided to paint the refrigerator in my apartment with a brush. I used the cheapest brush I could find, as well as the cheapest enamel paint, and went to work. The refrigerator was reborn that day, forever known as the “porcupine” due to all the many dislodged brush bristles in the paint.

[John Codman]

Many years ago I saw a Model A that was owned by a Frank Gardner who was the President of the Massachusetts chapter of the Antique Automobile Club of America (I think it was the AACA). He had painted it with a brush, and You couldn't tell that it wasn't sprayed. If you are patient and careful, you can get very good results.

[jiminbartow]

Three of the biggest concerns to painting are: brush marks, dust and insects settling on fresh paint and contaminated paint.

Find a room that has plenty of room on all sides for your Model T with an air intake window and a fumes exhaust door or window, with a big hurricane fan set in front of the window or door blowing it out then with the fan running, make the room completely dust free using a leaf blower starting at the back at the air intake window or door and work your way to the front. Get all the dust off the ceilings, walls and rafters, blowing it out the exhaust door. You may have to dislodge the dust by sweeping. Do this until there is no more dust. Make sure the surface you are painting is free of contaminates using mineral spirits and tack cloths. Use a set of Tyvek coveralls to contain dust from your clothes.

Get several sizes of the best slanted chisel tipped brushes money will buy and make sure the bristles are compatible for the type of paint you are using. I would get a 1 1/2”, a 2” and a 3”brush. Get a good paint that has a long work life and plenty of the correct solvent for the paint you are using for thinning and cleanup. Shake well and strain it of contaminates. You need to be able to feather and blend the paint before it starts to set up. Use long strokes and at the end of each stoke, continue the stroke as you lift up the brush. As you start a new stroke, start the stroke above the work and as you make the stroke, lower your brush onto the surface for a reverse feather. If a bit of dust settles on your freshly painted work, do not try to remove it. It can be dealt with later after it has dried with wet/dry 600 grit sandpaper and rubbing compound. If you try and get it out when wet, you will only make it worse.

Clean up your brushes as soon as you finish with them or clean them several times a day when they start to build up. Allowing them to harden up can get expensive. When loading your brush, dip your brush in the paint only about an inch. You don’t need to dip it in up to the hilt.

[John Codman]

What Jim said.

[John kuehn]

Brushing on a new paint job is nothing real new. Western Auto was selling brush paint kits in the 20’s.
Nowdays we can do it even better with better paint applicators and better prepping. A smooth and nice job depends on the preparation for any type of application.

[Rich Eagle]

I don't brush anything as big as a body but do wheels and chassis parts. I like a soft brush. Camel hair watercolor ones are my favorite. Dulux and tractor enamel is my favorite. I exclude ventilation to minimize dust. These don't give off many fumes. If careful, runs can be brushed out or avoided all together. Small parts can be rotated if runs appear.
I did paint an entire Model A with a 1" brush using nitrocellulose lacquer. It dried too fast, but I could rub it out. That was good enough for me in 1970. I was happy to discover enamel though.
Rich

[Rich P. Bingham]

Because "brush painting" appears deceptively simple, the fine points that make it a rather complex craft are easily overlooked. These days, the most difficult part is obtaining good materials that suit the purpose, and good brushes. Synthetic coatings and draconian regulations on "hydrocarbon emissions" have dealt all but a death-blow to "oil base" paints and varnishes. The lack of demand has nearly killed the manufacture of high-quality, specialized brushes.

[m_p_dean@yahoo.com]

I've done the foam roller method as shown here by Wayne Jorgenson. It works great, looks good. I've also rattle-canned multiple coats of Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy. Again, works great, looks good. It looks much more, what I would consider, original.
Maury Dean

[TWrenn]

I almost hate to admit it but that Rustoleum Appliance epoxy is some dang good stuff!
Every other year I even put my F150 on the lift, clean the frame down with a damp rag of lacquer thinner and re-coat with that. For an 8 y.o. truck that frame still looks like new. Salt resistance!

[George Mills]

I'd go along with the rattle can Epoxy Rustoleum Appliance Enamel.

Jim in Bartow posted his experiments a while back...it looked good, seemed to last long enough, so I had a case where the car was 'done' when I bought it...it's rear fenders still in prime, and the hood still in prime. State DMV would not take the qualifying picture as to them, prime somehow equated to 'remanufactured' and thus, DMV only willing to reissue the title as salvage...I was beating my head against the wall arguing, even with the supervisor, so went home.

Bought a couple of cans of the Black Rustoleum Appliance paint...did a wipe down, redid the fenders in place, redid the hood off the car...took new pictures...went to DMV the next day and walked out with a good solid re-title no further questions asked.

That was maybe 1/2 dozen years ago or so? Still in the Rustoleum Black, waxed with Maguire's Black, it's a fine match to whatever was on there and no need to think a further redo is required! I also did a real crappy set of wood wheels in that Rustoleum rattle can stuff...still pretty slick!

[Bmettli]

I have painted my entire car in brush rustoleum black. It came out good. All the suggestions are helpful but what really worked for me is sanding the finish with 1000/1500 grit sandpaper and then using menguirs ultimate compound and a fast electric polisher.

It’s great because it cost nothing. Couple cans of paint to do the car and just time. I did a panel every couple months. So if my kids scratch the car, use the fender as a slide or fall asleep on it at old car festival I wouldn’t be upset. A $10k paint job just isn’t worth it.

[colonelpowers]

Y'all have generously given me great advice again. I thank you. I am hoping that I am going to be able to take the car down to my wife's uncle's shop. He is an octogenarian and sadly unwell but he was a great paint and body man. His shop is set up to paint in so maybe he can direct me on the prep work and getting it ready to paint and then I can give a brush paint job a try. I wonder if going back black is a good idea for this project. The car is black but appears to have been a blue originally. I like black but I know how hard it is to get black to really look good. What do y'all think.

Thanks and God Bless

[jiminbartow]

A great idea was brought up earlier to use Rustoleum Gloss Black Appliance Epoxy. It is the best rattle can spray paint on the market and, unlike a lot of black spray paint, dries to a true jet black color. Also, it can be sanded with very fine wet dry sandpaper and compounded to a mirror finish. If you do that, you will need mask off the entire car and paint small enough sections at a time to prevent overspray and drying too soon.
1. Left front fender.
2. Left front door
3. Left rear door
4. Left Running board/splash shield.
5. Left rear fender
6. Rear end
7. Right front fender
8. Right front door
9. Right rear door
10. Right running board/splash shield
11. Right rear fender
When you do each section, the rest of the car should be masked off. This paint goes on better than most and builds up nicely and bonds with itself but like any paint be careful when doing vertical surfaces to avoid runs.

Here is a fender I did using 2 cans of Rustoleum rattle can gloss black appliance epoxy. It was done in a single application. It’s sort of a sixth sense to know how much to spray on without it running. This picture was taken shortly after painting, before any followup was done. As a matter of fact, I was so happy with the way it turned out, I decided I did not need to do anymore followup work like sanding and compounding, as there were no flaws whatsoever.

The trick is to take your time in a hurry. Have enough paint on hand to do the part and shake all the cans thoroughly (at least a couple of minutes) so the next can is ready to use as soon as the first can is empty. Spray it on and keep the can moving all over the part, covering the thin overspray that will be absorbed into the paint being sprayed over it. When the part is completely covered and the final coat is smooth and free of overspray and you can see your reflection (like my fender), it is time to start thinking about stopping and letting it dry. Just one coat too many and it might start to run. If it does happen to run, it can be repaired by letting it dry thoroughly and the run sanded off and compounded, but if you can avoid the runs it will make life alot easier. If you can remove the vertical parts like the doors and lay them flat, that will decrease the possibility of runs. Be sure to mask the windows and protect the upholstery from overspray. Don’t be in a hurry. It will take a lot of time but will be well worth it.

Jim Patrick

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[colonelpowers]

Wow, I would have never thought that you could get that look from a can. That is definitely food for thought. Thanks for sharing.

[olebmw]

Interesting article. If I try to paint some sheet metal parts, either by brush or roller should I use a primer first?

[Shannon_in_Texas]

I see that Allan mentioned it up above but you might want to use Penetrol to thin your paint and help it level out without brush or roller marks. Practice on test pieces in various orientations to get your technique worked out before you start on your actual car.

https://www.flood.com/products/paint-ad ... t-additive

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Penet ... /100130893

[mortier]

An interesting option is Yacht paint. This is a high-quality enamel which is designed to be applied with a sponge roller and "tipped" (lightly stroked one time) with a good-quality brush. There are several nice YouTube videos on the process. I get paint from Jamestown Distributors; they have a nice website and often have paints on sale. "Epifanes" (eh-pi-fah-nis) from Holland, is one of the better makes.

[signsup]

Is it the masking off that is preventing the discussion about using a $15 Harbor Freight air sprayer and your garage air compressor? We have painted dozens of military vehicles flat or lusterless OD green and always use a sprayer and mix and thin and harden our own paint. Rattle cans can be used on small parts but will never match the shade or luster of the same color paint applied manually.

Since a Model T is mostly black, I would think it would be an easy masking job, but I have not painted a T yet. My current WWI ambulance project will be OD lusterless paint sprayed on. There is a reason why I like military vehicles. Although we never win the shineyest paint job at local car shows.

[WayneJ]

To answer the question as to weather to use a primer if using a brush or roller for the finish coat, the answer would be to follow the recommendations of the top coat. Generally bare metal needs a primer.

[signsup]

If no primer, would you scuff up the base coat? I'm picturing thinned down enamel just sliding around a previously painted surface unless it's got something to bite into.