exhaust manifold

Post by **Art Ebeling** » Wed Jan 10, 2024 5:55 pm

I have two exhaust manifolds that came with my 1914. One has a Ford scrypt on it and the other is plain. Which is correct for the 14? Thanks, Art

Post by **RajoRacer** » Wed Jan 10, 2024 6:52 pm

Whichever one which is NOT warped !

Post by **KWTownsend** » Wed Jan 10, 2024 8:11 pm

A 1914 manifold would not have a Ford script. However, straight is important...

Allan · Post by **Allan** » Wed Jan 10, 2024 8:50 pm

They don't have to be die straight either. If they are not eroded and have good thread for the packnut, warpage can be accounted for.

I make offset steel glands to enable warped manifolds to be fitted well.
Step !. Cut 6 gland rings from a piece of exhaust tubing the same size as the ports in the block.
Step 2. Carefully align a straight edge aver the two middle ports on the manifold. This will tell you how far down the front and rear ports have been
warped.
Step 3. Put one of your cut rings on top of another, offsetting it to match the amount of warpage at the manifold port, and weld the two together on the
inside.
Step 4. Do the same for the other warped port. Depending on your welding skills, there may be filing/grinding necessary to fit the stepped gland rings
into the ports.

When you fit the offset rings in the manifold, you should now be able to set the rings so that they line up in a straight line, as the ports on the block are.
Use the usual copper rings as gaskets, or cut rings from the one piece green gaskets.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

Post by **Art M** » Thu Jan 11, 2024 3:44 pm

Allan,
Your method of dealing with warped manifolds is ideal for those who want to use an original but warped one. I have an original Ford scripted one that is warped. I don't want to risk straightening it with heat because of the likelihood of breaking it. I bought an aftermarket one, knowing it is not correct for the car. Now I know how to deal with this issue

Art Mirtes

vping · Post by **vping** » Thu Jan 11, 2024 8:39 pm

Are the new manifolds in the Langs catalog any good? I noticed that mine has a vertical crack. I haven't started it yet to know if it leaks or not. Just trying I figure my next steps and if I buy new or source a used one here on the forum.

Post by **John kuehn** » Thu Jan 11, 2024 8:51 pm

I bought one of the reproduction manifolds for my 21 Touring. They are a well made reproduction I think and one of the reproduction T parts that’s pretty good.

I straightened some originals before and they worked OK but I won’t do it again. You may still find a decent one at a Swap meet but it was taken off an engine for a reason.

I guess it’s sort of like buying a decent looking radiator only to find out later it wouldn’t cool well.

Allan · Post by **Allan** » Thu Jan 11, 2024 9:01 pm

Vincent, your crack comes under the "If it don't leak, don't fix it" category. I'd leave it alone as long as it stays OK. There does not seem to be leakage so far.
Allan from down under.

Norman Kling · Post by **Norman Kling** » Thu Jan 11, 2024 9:08 pm

Depends a lot on how warped it is. If the glands are not in place, it will warp. Especially if run too lean or too retarded so that the manifold gets red hot. It will sag most often between 3 and 4 because all the exhaust from all cylinders goes through that area and the weight of the exhaust pipe is also on it. They will stay straight if all 4 glands are in place, but at least the 4th one and the first on should be in place. I have had very good results with the replacements from the vendors.
Norm

vping · Post by **vping** » Thu Jan 11, 2024 9:25 pm

Was running when parked so I'm hoping all is well.

Guessing that the picture below are the glands you speak of so they were possibly replaced at some point.

I picked up a new battery yesterday so my hopes are that I'll get it started tomorrow.

Post by **Craig Leach** » Fri Jan 12, 2024 12:24 am

Allan,
I would like to see pics of your method if you have any if not maybe the next time you do it. I tried to machine that but found it would not
accept the copper ring as it was oval shaped. I have had fair success straightening manifolds, what the heck if they can't be used warped
then if you fail to get them straight or they crack the only loss is time, Oxy & acetylene. If they do then you save $100 +shipping & the ford
script.
Craig.

Allan · Post by **Allan** » Fri Jan 12, 2024 1:37 am

Norman, in most cases the warpage occurs throughout the manifold, not just at the rear. If the straight edge is lined up on ports one and two, invariably port three is down a bit, and port four even more so. By lining up ports two and three, you can determine just how much the end ports are out of line.

As other posts state, the exhaust manifold must be fitted using gland rings to prevent warpage. The offset gland rings I make, allow the bent manifoid to still be fitted to the block, with gland rings in place. Without them, the manifold is free to migrate up and down on the block face and warpage allowed to continue.

Allan from down under.

Allan · Post by **Allan** » Fri Jan 12, 2024 1:41 am

Craig, I have to refit the manifolds on the barn fresh car I am working on in the near future. I will post photos of the installation when I do the fitting, including shots of the offset glands.

Allan from down under.

Post by **George Mills** » Fri Jan 12, 2024 9:53 am

The reproduction manifolds are probably the best value buy going for anything T. Good iron, straight- seem to stay straight after numerous heat cycles. Excellent threads for a used packing nut. (a new packing nut may need to be lapped on in a vice first- on the nut think the nut threads are made a little 'full' to seal better on used manifolds? On new 'both' I just use 1/4 on, 1/8 off, on a bench vice til seated...goes together slick then when placed on car)

Allan · Post by **Allan** » Fri Jan 12, 2024 7:53 pm

George, the new manifolds fit well. Indeed they are straight, and will stay that way, ONLY if they are fitted with gland rings. Forget the split, rolled sheet metal types the vendors sell. They will distort and allow the manifold to "walk" on the block face, and away warpage will go on again. Henry did not provide the reliefs in the block and manifold for us to ignore.

Allan from down under.

RGould1910 · Post by **RGould1910** » Sat Jan 13, 2024 11:11 am

Question. Are the glands the same diameter as a T exhaust pipe or must I find another size tubing?

John Codman · Post by **John Codman** » Sat Jan 13, 2024 12:29 pm

I'll add my name to those who have purchased a repro from Lang's. It's been on my T since 2014 with no issues at all.

Post by **RajoRacer** » Sat Jan 13, 2024 12:45 pm

Off the top of my head Richard - T exhaust is 1 & 1/2" - block bores are 1 & 1/8".

RGould1910 · Post by **RGould1910** » Sat Jan 13, 2024 2:48 pm

Thanks Steve!

Allan · Post by **Allan** » Sat Jan 13, 2024 8:49 pm

A T exhaust pipe is 1.5" d1ameter. The reliefs in the block for the glands is 1.25" I have a length of 1.25' exhaust pipe in my workshop, clearly labeled "EXHAUST GLAND RINGS ONLY" So far other nefarious uses for it have not surfaced, unlike my hidden stash of silver solder! That remains so well hidden I can't find it.

Allan from down under.

MTFCA Forum

exhaust manifold

exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold

Re: exhaust manifold