Brassworks "Low" radiator

[Oldav8tor]

I have a Bergs radiator (no longer being produced.) It works great but has one flaw. The filler neck is simply soldered on and Berg's cautioned not to put any more weight than a cap on it. I tried a dogbone and motometer (twice) but each time the neck broke free and had to be soldered back on.

I would really like to be able to use the motometer my daughter bought for me. I either need to figure out how to secure the existing neck better or find a replacement neck.

Can anyone who has a Brassworks radiator tell me how Brassworks secure their necks to the tank? I'd entertain buying a neck from them if replacing it didn't involve cutting the tank open. The earlier style used on brass cars that had rivets is a possibility too but would have to be plated.

Information and suggestions will be appreciated.

[TMiller6]

From my own experience, you were fortunate the neck broke off at the solder joint. I used to use a dog bone motormeter on my ‘24 until the neck came off attached to a jagged chunk of my top tank.

I only use the original style cap now.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Tim,

If you had the original style neck it still might not do you any good. Originally, the neck was crimped to the tank and soldered. To be able to properly crimp a new neck, if one is even being made, would most likely require some specialized tooling and even so, may not be possible on an already assembled radiator.

[JTT3]

Would silver solder work? Could you post a detailed picture of the neck? The early necks had a larger flat base for more surface area to accept solder I believe. Other than removing the top tank & solder it in from the inside I can’t think of an other option that would work allowing you to keep the motormeter. Is it the large motormeter or the junior size? Best John

[Oldav8tor]

Ouch! I guess I was lucky. I never understood why Bergs didn't use a neck that would crimp on and simply install the neck before assembling the tank.
I bought a neck with a flange from Speedway - problem is, it has a large groove in the flange around the tank opening so there isn't as much surface to solder to. You'd also have to cut off part of the flange because the neck is so close to the front of the tank. I also have the ability to install aviation-quality pop rivets into the flange that would help.

Silver solder? I've thought about that. It is stronger. I just don't know....I certainly don't want to make the situation worse.

[Steve Jelf]

There's more than one reason I've never trusted a motometer.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Tim,
This is a picture is worth a 1000 words thing. If the neck sat in a recess that may make this harder but if you have or can find a old junk radiator
then cut a large part of the tank out of the old radiator with the crimped in neck, clean all the paint & oxidation off your radiator & the patch
& sweat it on the top tank giving a stronger neck & tank. Or take a piece of brass long enough to wrap around the base of the neck, break it into
a L & stretch it into a hat shape & solder onto the neck & top tank. Either way you may not end up with a plated neck as solder & plating don't
always play well together.
Craig.

[bobt]

I bought my 1915 touring's radiator from Brassworks about five years ago and it is one of the most expensive radiators they make. I'm not complaining. Brassworks did a WONDERFUL job on it and it cools fantastic. I've Always have ran the large brass gull wings AND a Boyce Jr. motometer and I really like the look. I don't remember Brassworks saying not to use the wings or motometer. I DO drive my 1915 year round. I'm I flirting with disaster ? bobt

[Oldav8tor]

The brass radiators are fine and I suspect that brasswork's low radiators are fine too. I've only heard of Berz radiators having the neck problem. Don't get me wrong, it cools great! I was trying to find out how brassworks attached their filler necks.

[TRDxB2]

Did you notice the rivets on the base of the water neck. That should keep a soldered one from working loose

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[JTT3]

Tim you have a black T correct? This would mean you have a shroud covering your radiator so the combination of silver solder & rivets most likely will not be seen because of the shroud.
Sounds like that would be the solution if the radiator neck that is pictured is the style you have. Use a quality flux on a clean surface, rivet in place and solder, the flux will pull the silver solder in. You’ll only be heating the flange so wrapping the a wet cloth around the neck will help as a heat sink & prevent you changing the polished finish.

[Allan]

Flux will help get the solder between the tank top and neck but better still is to tin both components prior to fitting. This will ensure that there are no spots where the solder will not take. Rivet the neck on and then sweat the two together, and add solder as required.
The rivets will add a mechanical attachment to the solder joint. Your flanged neck will add greater take area for the solder.

Allan from down under.

[Norman Kling]

I can't speak for the Brassworks low radiator, but I have two of their high radiators and I use a dog bone on one and one with birds wings on the other. Neither have had any problem with the neck coming off.
Norm