Trying to remove bendix spring holder

[mireland]

1926 T touring.

I have watched Mitch Taylor’s YouTube of replacing starter and searched similar posts here….but all missing the key piece….how to remove that spring holder after removing the lock nut?

In this video, between 14:35 and 14:40. It comes out a small bit, but afraid to force anything…

Any tips on what I’m missing?

I had a small leak and figured the winter was a good time to replace gaskets and bushing seal kit…. But seems “easy” and “quick” didn’t show up to the shop tonight….

Any tips besides gaskets and bushing kit once I have the starter off?

https://youtu.be/raHVePI4B7Y

[Jones in Aiken SC]

You need a small puller to get it off. If you don't have one, go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap one. Make sure it is small enough to grip that piece.

[CudaMan]

Once you pull the holder off, make sure that the little woodruff key is still in its slot on the shaft. It can pop out and in the worst case, fall into the transmission. That happened to me once, luckily the key fell to the bottom of the pan and came out when I drained the oil.

[DanTreace]

Ford Service, showing a puller being used on that starter drive head.

Puller being used, with starter in the car, access from below. After removal check for burrs or damage that may have made the drive head stuck or difficult to remove.

5 Using puller to remove stuck drive collar.jpeg (112.03 KiB) Viewed 1829 times

[Craig Leach]

Hi Matt,
Most of the time I get away with removing the drive screws & spring, install the short screw into the drive head ( not tight ) wrap a rag around
the drive so nothing ends up in the trans. Support the shaft with one hand & tap the drive head off with a small hammer they usually come off
with a few taps. As a rule I always tap down any raised distortions in the shaft from the key & bolt again support the shaft. also replace the
spring, key, bolts & lock tab washers. Inspect the drive head keyway for width & cracks. Keeping these parts in the running board box with a
small tube of sealer is not a bad idea.
Craig.

[mireland]

Got it off and things seem well….EXCEPT…

Is there a way to test the windings in the magneto?
Should this be all black or all copper?
Does it look bad to you guys?

[image][/image]

[mireland]

Well, good news is I found an article abnout testing the magneto. The not states the best is to have under 1 ohm of resistance. The higher the number (above 1ohm) the worse the situation....mine tests between .25 and .3 (YIPEE)...

Now, should I clean that black or just count my blessings and put things back together?

[Jones in Aiken SC]

The "black" , if I understand you correctly, is just discoloration from oil and carbon. So that is not a problem.

However, the insulation on the mag coil winding shown in your picture has come off. I don't think that has an effect so I would not tear down the engine to put a new rebuilt mag coil ring in. If I am wrong about that, others will chime in. However, if you do some day tear the engine down you should get yourself a rebuilt mag coil ring.

[Humblej]

Matt,
The mag ring insulation probably got damaged by someone being rough while removing or installing the starter. Do not touch the mag ring, leave it alone and it should be fine as is. I have worse in my car and it runs just fine on mag.

[John kuehn]

As mentioned insulation coming off there is because of rough handling. Could be somebody couldn’t figure out how to remove the starter and was jerking it around in the past. If your car runs fine don’t worry about it! Lots of T’s have worse mag rings than and work fine. Just be glad that’s it’s not mangled up!! Looks like it’s an original to the car going by the condition of the insulation. The Ford service manual usually has all the answers by the way and a big help.