Reproduction Top Sockets Issues

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

I am beyond livid right now trying to correct what IMHO is nothing more than poor craftsmanship on a set of nearly new reproduction Dog Leg Top Sockets. The issue is they bend because of incorrect gauge metal and poor craftsmanship. The first three trips the vehicle went on, it came home with bent sockets during transportation. Each time, I fixtured and straightened the bend(s). Even on the Cadillac tour, driving with the top down they bent. So we resorted to removing the top during transporting and just install it when we arrived at the tour. So when discussing this with a few 'experts', they advised me that the manufacturer likely forgot to install the wood inside the socket.

So I decided that it was time to correct the issues and fabricate some hardwood for the inside of the socket. Well, after fabricating a screw on a rod to remove the 'wood', the issue turns out that in lieu of wood the manufacturer just filled the socket with what appears to be epoxy resin. No reinforcement for the Resin whatsoever (-i.e.: like stranded cloth or a metal rod inserted for rigidity) And, the resin was only filled to 1" above where the top saddle supported it, and 3 inches above on the L/R side. Nothing to reinforce the resin. So with it only extending 1" past the top saddle, the resin broke on the first trip out and the socket was no longer supported. So that we are in full understanding, there is approximately 12" from the saddle support back to the end of the wood Bow. (The bow is inserted 4½" into the socket.) Imagine the rigidity that could have been if the Socket manufacturer would have inserted a .750" metal rod about 18" in length and filled the surrounding area with resin. Even better if Resin Cloth could have surrounded the steel or aluminum rod.

So I am going to try to salvage these with an 18" long drill from McMaster and see how much resin I can remove. Truthfully, I am skeptical that I will be able to remove enough of that Resin material inside the sockets to be able to get 6-8 inches past the saddle to insert some type of rod (for support) and anchor it in with new resin. Sure is a lot of money for someone to spend only to have such a failure that basically renders them unusable.

[KWTownsend]

I would be livid, too!

Good luck.

[Allan]

Brent, is the problem confines to just the bottom bow when the top is folded?
Are you averse to repainting the bows after you have fixed the problem? If not, using a torch to heat the socket may break down the epoxy contact within, allowing easier and more complete removal, using your tool to draw it out.
I strengthened two bows on a tourer by shaping a hardwood dowel to as neat a fit as i could manage, and then cut it back to the required length. It was then coated with epoxy to fill any irregularities, and driven down to depth. It is a lot of messing about, but it has stood up well.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

PS Heat is also good for removing stubborn broken timber bows from sockets. Get them hot enough to char the timber and they will almost fall out.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Brent, is the problem confines to just the bottom bow when the top is folded?
Are you averse to repainting the bows after you have fixed the problem? If not, using a torch to heat the socket may break down the epoxy contact within, allowing easier and more complete removal, using your tool to draw it out.
I strengthened two bows on a tourer by shaping a hardwood dowel to as neat a fit as i could manage, and then cut it back to the required length. It was then coated with epoxy to fill any irregularities, and driven down to depth. It is a lot of messing about, but it has stood up well.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

PS Heat is also good for removing stubborn broken timber bows from sockets. Get them hot enough to char the timber and they will almost fall out.

Yes, just the bottom bow on each side.

I would feel comfortable removing the that one socket on each side from the rest of the sockets to apply heat, ...IF I knew that heat would cause the Epoxy (-not Wood) to char and release. I am trying to find out exactly what Epoxy/Resin was installed. We can repaint it if I can get it reinforced but I need to get the majority of that old Epoxy out first.

While Wood is definitely an option for reinforcement, I am thinking more along the lines of machining a taper on a piece of 18" long steel which would take up the majority of the cavity and then pour Resin around the rod into the remainder of space inside the socket.

[Allan]

Brent, I used wooden dowel as it was easier to shape to the inconsistent taper in the sockets. Hope you get an answer to the type of epoxy used, and how it might be persuaded to vacate the premises.

Allan from down under.

[Art Ebeling]

Brent, I am working on a 14 front top iron that I have dug the rotted wood out of and was considering a shaped wood piece surrounded by autobody strucual adhesive. What are your thoughts on that?

[Dan Hatch]

Brent will it for in your powder coat oven ?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Brent, I am working on a 14 front top iron that I have dug the rotted wood out of and was considering a shaped wood piece surrounded by autobody strucual adhesive. What are your thoughts on that?

That would probably be OK. The key to everything is to have a strong spine inside.

Brent will it for in your powder coat oven ?

Yes.

[Allan]

Art, that is a great idea. Just don't use so much adhesive that you trap an air bubble in the socket that may prevent the bow seating all the way down. In woodworking, dowels often have a slot in the side, or are fluted all round, to allow air to escape as the parts are assembled.

Allan from down under.