Front spring question
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Topic author - Posts: 78
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2025 4:41 pm
- First Name: Lucas
- Last Name: Milatti
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Model T Touring
- Location: Saint cloud FL
- Board Member Since: 2025
Front spring question
I have a 17, it is to my knowledge that the front should have 6-7 leafs and the later models have 8-9, mine has 9, should I just take the top 2 off to make it 7? Or do I have to get a new spring which in that case I'm leaving it. Additionally the u bolt looking things that hold the spring up on the t, what's it called, I need to get new ones since the threads there are gone. Side question, radius rod is rust welded in the perches, how can I get it out without turning the perches?
-
- Posts: 348
- Joined: Mon May 06, 2024 9:32 pm
- First Name: Kurt
- Last Name: Andersson
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Touring
- Location: Panama City Beach, FL
Re: Front spring question
* a 9 leaf front spring is a TT.
* IF my 45 yr ago memory is correct, the difference between the 7 leaf car and the 9 leaf spring on my TT was the top and third leaf down...but that's memory, not on certainty...take with a grain of salt if you remove.
* the U-bolt frame attachments, if the threads are shot, replace...don't take risks with compromised parts that are critical to the safety of you or the car
* there are many ways to remove rust welded parts, this topic alone can elicit long & varied responses, but a bit of caution here. If your rod threaded ends & ball, as well as your perches are in good shape, leave them be. There have been more radius rods and spring perches destroyed simply attempting to remove them for no reason. Not to mention early style perches and rods are pretty much made of unobtanium now. Better to assess what your actual repair needs are before you attempt disassembly that may not be required.
* IF my 45 yr ago memory is correct, the difference between the 7 leaf car and the 9 leaf spring on my TT was the top and third leaf down...but that's memory, not on certainty...take with a grain of salt if you remove.
* the U-bolt frame attachments, if the threads are shot, replace...don't take risks with compromised parts that are critical to the safety of you or the car
* there are many ways to remove rust welded parts, this topic alone can elicit long & varied responses, but a bit of caution here. If your rod threaded ends & ball, as well as your perches are in good shape, leave them be. There have been more radius rods and spring perches destroyed simply attempting to remove them for no reason. Not to mention early style perches and rods are pretty much made of unobtanium now. Better to assess what your actual repair needs are before you attempt disassembly that may not be required.
Call me anything you want...just so long as it isn't "late for dinner"
-
Topic author - Posts: 78
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2025 4:41 pm
- First Name: Lucas
- Last Name: Milatti
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Model T Touring
- Location: Saint cloud FL
- Board Member Since: 2025
Re: Front spring question
The ball is quite malformed, I wanted to remove it to see what k can do, I think there's a weld on replacement, also it should be the earlier style (I think) but I got the more common later style with the lower supports, actually one is loose in the bracket, if I tighten it up it becomes a tad shorter of the other one, what should I do about that, I didn't remove the rod, but from what I can see it looks fine thread wise on the rod.
-
- Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Front spring question
Lucas, the U bolts for the early type spring mounting are not available new, so you will have to source some good used ones. To use them on a 9 leaf spring would require them to be 1/2' longer than standard. I have never seen such U bolts. A photograph may help identifying just what you have. Perhaps they are aftermarket hand made items.
Allan from down under.
Allan from down under.
-
Topic author - Posts: 78
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2025 4:41 pm
- First Name: Lucas
- Last Name: Milatti
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Model T Touring
- Location: Saint cloud FL
- Board Member Since: 2025
Re: Front spring question
Can I use new bolts on the early one? I plan on sourcing am early one, but I need a plan b.
-
- Posts: 1906
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:22 am
- First Name: craig
- Last Name: leach
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Firetruck/1922 Speedster
- Location: Laveen Az
Re: Front spring question
Hi Guys,
I'm one of the last people to ask about originality on Model T's but this is the front spring from a TT chassis I purchased some years ago.
Note that two leaf's are doubled up, it's 11 leaf's if you remove the doubled ones it's 9 leaf's. Craig.
I'm one of the last people to ask about originality on Model T's but this is the front spring from a TT chassis I purchased some years ago.
Note that two leaf's are doubled up, it's 11 leaf's if you remove the doubled ones it's 9 leaf's. Craig.
-
Topic author - Posts: 78
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2025 4:41 pm
- First Name: Lucas
- Last Name: Milatti
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Model T Touring
- Location: Saint cloud FL
- Board Member Since: 2025
Re: Front spring question
I don't know if the pictures are good, but as yok can see the ball is bad, I tried to get one of the threads its bad on the wishbone on a side the the lower half with the tape o font know how to adjust because I e is loose but if I tighten it it is shorter than the other. The u bolt may be stripped on one side but since I'm taking 2 leafs off, the damage will be raided just above the nut and I can re use it since the threads below are fine. Thanks everyone who replied this far I appreciate any help I can get.
-
Topic author - Posts: 78
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2025 4:41 pm
- First Name: Lucas
- Last Name: Milatti
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Model T Touring
- Location: Saint cloud FL
- Board Member Since: 2025
-
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Thu Dec 12, 2024 8:47 am
- First Name: T
- Last Name: Gates
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1913 Touring, 1926 Fordor
- Location: USA
- Board Member Since: 2019
Re: Front spring question
When you say "new bolts" I don't know what you mean other than totally modern U bolts which first won't fit right and second look horrible. Try Chaffins or Langs they often have good used early Engine Mounts a.k.a. Front Spring Clamps and maybe even an NOSLittleTimmy52 wrote: ↑Tue May 06, 2025 10:20 pmCan I use new bolts on the early one? I plan on sourcing am early one, but I need a plan b.
-
Topic author - Posts: 78
- Joined: Sat Jan 04, 2025 4:41 pm
- First Name: Lucas
- Last Name: Milatti
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1917 Model T Touring
- Location: Saint cloud FL
- Board Member Since: 2025
Re: Front spring question
I'm reusing the old ones because I removed 2 leafs and the damaged part would be above the nut do its still useable.love2T's wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 10:21 amWhen you say "new bolts" I don't know what you mean other than totally modern U bolts which first won't fit right and second look horrible. Try Chaffins or Langs they often have good used early Engine Mounts a.k.a. Front Spring Clamps and maybe even an NOSLittleTimmy52 wrote: ↑Tue May 06, 2025 10:20 pmCan I use new bolts on the early one? I plan on sourcing am early one, but I need a plan b.
I thought I needed a new one until I realized the spot of the damage was less than the width of the leafs removed therefore it will stick up more and the nut would pass it.