New problem with my 22, looking for some advice

[Reno Speedster]

I just got my 22 out for the first time this year and I am having an odd problem. It’s running a bit rougher than normal but accelerated ok in low. But when I shift to high it lags and there seems to be a bit of a shudder. I adjusted the bands the other day to get just a touch more bight on the low and brake pedals, but only a turn or so. It drove ok after that, but when I drove it today it was acting up. It’s a stock engine, ignition setup, with Kevlar bands. Gas is new.

Any ideas on what I should be checking for? I am good with the mechanics, but I struggle with tuning and adjustment.

[Allan]

Kevlar bands should only be adjusted up just till they work as they should. They do not need any tightening just because you can. Last time I did this, they dragged until i backed them off again.
Allan from down under.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Shuddering after shifting to high has nothing to do with band adjustment. You most likely have a misfire. Check out coils & commutator. Are the coils seated properly inthe coilbox? Has the coilbox gotten damp?

[TXGOAT2]

Sounds like ignition to me. If you are using a roller timer, inspect, clean and lubricate it. Be sure the coils are getting good contact with the spring contacts in the coil box.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Sounds like ignition to me. If you are using a roller timer, inspect, clean and lubricate it. Be sure the coils are getting good contact with the spring contacts in the coil box.

I hadn't thought of that...

[Reno Speedster]

Thanks guys. I was adjusting the bands after a previous misguided attempt to adjust them by the book. In retrospect, I should have left them alone as it was doing fine. I have been trying to get back to a good adjustment ever since.

A miss sounds promising. I had it backfire, which would be consistent with an ignition issue. Also, there is a piece of card stock stuck behind one of the coils by the previous owner, which would suggest less than optimal contact. I just bought another coil box as a spare, and for the lid (mine was missing). Might be time to dive in and rebuild the coil box.

[Oldav8tor]

I agree that you probably have a coil issue. With the car running, short out each plug and see what happens. If the rpm doesn't change when you short one out the problem is likely with the coil connected to it. Cleaning the coil contacts is a good spring task. Also, if you don't have a couple of spare coils, it's time to get some.

If you indeed decide to rebuild the coil box I strongly recommend buying one of the plastic rebuild kits. Example, Langs Item Number: 5000-5001RK

Regardless of where you get the plastic box parts, if you decide to replace the contacts get the ones Lang's sells. They come closest to the original.
Item Number: 5001CONBQ - I had a problem where my original contacts lost their "spring", resulting in coils misfiring. My solution, I doubled up the contacts and haven't had a problem since. Originalists will cringe, but it works. In the past, Model T owners were great improvisers, I'm just following their lead.

[A Whiteman]

How to make a quick 'short' test:

With the engine is running faster than idle, take a plastic handled screw driver and lean the shaft against the terminal at the top of the spark plug, then move the tip to touch the head.
This shorts the plug out.

A: If nothing happens and no spark (or a weak spark) from the screw driver end to the head, then you have a coil/ wiring issue on that cylinder.

B: If it sparks but nothing much changes in the engine rpm, you may have a spark plug issue - remove - clean - reset and try again.

C: If it is a healthy coil/wiring/plug then the engine will die away a bit as the cylinder stops working.

Happy sparking

[Mike Silbert]

Let's not forget about the clutch.
He says slow to take off and shudders when shifting, it could be the clutch.

Easy clutch check:
Put the car in high and chock or strap the car down.
Key OFF, engage the manual starting crank in the horizontal position.
Stand on the crank and nothing should move.
This is calibrated for an average weight person, others need to compensate. You are simulating the 85ftlbs of torque from the engine running.
If it drops without the car moving you have a clutch problem.
Simple, quick, positive check just to be sure it's not slipping when shifting into high.

[rwephill]

I agree with those who say ignition. Give the coils a bit of a gentle clean-up. Clean and lube the timer. Search the forum for timing adjustments. I had a similar issue with how mine was running. It wasn't terrible, but not as smooth as it should be. Cleaned things up and found my timing was a bit too advanced. Once I took my time and adjusted it carefully and correctly, it ran smoother than it ever had. I didn't expect the combination of small things I did to have such a positive impact.

Best article out there on the subject. However, the actual adjustments are pretty much the same as in the original T Service Manual.
download/file.php?id=148374

[Reno Speedster]

I got into the car today. I have spark on all plugs. I pulled the plugs and they were fuzzy with soot. I cleaned the plugs and adjusted the carb. The packing nut was too loose and was allowing the needle to thread out and get richer. I pulled the timer and found it was quite worn. The roller was also pitted (see the pictures). I have some spare timers, including some roller ones and an Anderson. I think I will try the Anderson.

[Moxie26]

Before you put a new timer on, double check to see if cam cover plate was installed being centered on the camshaft.

[Reno Speedster]

This is what I have now.

[RajoRacer]

Something was sure causing a whole lot of bouncing around !!! That appears to be a more modern Tiger timer - not known for longevity !

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

When you switch to the Anderson, you'll need to readjust your timing.

[Reno Speedster]

I had a bit of an issue fitting the Anderson, so I fitted a cast iron one that used a roller. I need to check the timing, but it runs better than it did already.

[Moxie26]

Every time you change a timer, the initial timing has to be reset... Which means the pull rod either has to be lengthened or shortened according to basic timer position....... Also every timer needs a little lubrication,.. looks like the one you pictured was running dry and had flaky metal drop into area of terminals two and four.

[Reno Speedster]

I drove it to dinner tonight and it ran great. I will do a more precise check on the timing tomorrow, and I still intend to rebuild the coil box, but it’s night and day from where it was. Thanks to everyone for the tips.