Ben's Model-T Pie Wagon [1911-1925]

[TXGOAT2]

If you carry loads, a Ruxtel would be a good accessory. Improving the brakes will have benefits, but you will still have very limited braking due to lack of any front brakes. The disc brake conversion would pair well with a Ruxtel axle.

[fireheadman]

Well I see this forum does use pages.... was wondering when it would roll to page 2.

I would not put STP or any similar product in a Model T engine. Model T engines and transmissions require "light cylinder oil", according to period Ford specs, which is about what today's 20W is . 10W30 detergent oil does a great job in a Model T under most conditions. If you drive in colder weather, 5W30 or 5W20 does a good job. Thicker oil causes a number of problems with Model T engines and transmissions, and it is not needed and specifically not recommended by Ford Motor Co. 10W30 exceed all Ford's specifications for motor oil for use in the Model T.

I will look into this some more...
as of right now, I am using straight 30w non-detergent oil (PureGuard).

If you carry loads, a Ruxtel would be a good accessory. Improving the brakes will have benefits, but you will still have very limited braking due to lack of any front brakes. The disc brake conversion would pair well with a Ruxtel axle.

A ruckstell is on the list! Maybe towards the end of the list, I need to get all the major safety items crossed off.

[TXGOAT2]

You'll get better results with a good 10W30 detergent oil. Regular 10W30 oil, synthetic blend, or full synthetic all work fine. In cold weather, 5W30 or 5W20 are best. Both the engine and the transmission need a light bodied oil that does not thicken up in colder weather. Multigrade oil will outperform any straight grade oil in a Model T under all driving conditions, and detergent oil offers the same benefits in a Model T as it does in a new car. No downside to it.

[fireheadman]

Been a bit since I last posted.... Got backlogged with some house projects!

I've been slowly working on my wobbly wheels issue.
Found out it is just a combination of several things, which I have put in a parts order for.
Replacing the steering column pinon gears (4 of them), the cover (found a nice brass one!), changing out the spindle brash bushings (kingpins), the right spindle arm - (I messed that up trying to smack it out of the spindle).

Since I have the front wheel off, I was able to get a quarter turn on on each of the 5 spoke/hub bolts (will need to peen them again so they dont loosen on me). The timken bearings look fine and same goes for the lower bushing on the steering column.


Aside from the steering/wheel issues... I finally decided to purchase the SureStop disc brake setup, so that is sitting on the workbench from Texas T parts. From speaking with them, i learned it is possible to craft/fabricate a thin tin/metal shield that will bolt onto the wheel bolts. If this works out good and does what I want it to... it should hide the "disc" look that I am not crazy about.

I also have a set of kevlar bands I picked up from Ann (Steve Kaniff's daughter), so need to get those installed.
I imagine with it being winter here, I will be moving a little slower on the the upgrades. Not really a fan of wrenches slipping on my knuckles in the cold. Last time I did that my index finger swelled up the same size as my thumb!

Oh, and I also have my seat cushion/springs I need to tie up and mount to a board so I can get a leather upholstery kit ordered from Classtique.

[fireheadman]

just a quick update... most of which is in this post:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50245&p=383284#p383284

Have to find my warmer days to do anything in the barn (way too cold right now)!
But feeling like I might have the wobbly wheels under control.

Might wait for a warmer day to crank her up to get the oil drained and put some thinner weight in for the winter months.

Oh, and finally got my new generator in, need to get that installed and test out the ammeter

[fireheadman]

Back to this project... The winter in colorado has been the warmest I have ever witnessed!
Might suck for summer, but great for being able to turn some wrenches.

I was able to get everything replaced/updated..etc on the wobbly wheels, but haven't been able to test drive her to see just yet.
I decided I might as well get the kevlar bands installed, so knocked that part out too... just need a few runs to make tension adjustments on them (starting off loose and will tighten them up as needed).

So while I was running the engine to test out the bands I noticed my head gaskets started leaking a lot more than I've ever noticed from the rear and was slowly making its way up to the front. Tried tighting the head bolts up to 55ft lbs, after being warm. That didn't work, so pulled the head and welcomed my next fun mini-project!

Valves, springs, retainers, pins... some pitting on the cylinders. Nothing I really wanted to see, but can't just leave it as it is.
Wish I had the funds to continue pumping money into her, but unfortunately I have exhausted my budget for a new block. Maybe in the distant future this can happen, but for now I just want to get her running again and do the best I can with the resources available.

Cleaned up the valves, the 4 exhaust valves I might replace... just depends on how well new ones will seat. I now know there is a risk of making it worse by doing this... wont know until I try first. Definitely will replace the springs, seats, and pins while she is opened up.

Here's a few pictures of the block (noticed number 7 valve is hanging by half of a pin)

Number 1 valve (beveled top)

Number 8 valve, can see a little of the back edge is deteriorated

Something I have noticed is a few of the valves have a bevel on the top while most are flat.
These are all Ford stamped (on underside of head) cast iron 2-piece valves

[TXGOAT2]

I'd want to replace the two worst looking valves. They're in bad shape and may be in danger of the heads coming off the stems, which could be a disaster. The valves do not have to match one another.

[TXGOAT2]

The crank case on the passenger side looks to have what may be chalk markings on the cast iron underneath the paint. There's a good chance those are factory markings. It might be interesting to find out what they mean, if anyone knows.

[fireheadman]

I'd want to replace the two worst looking valves. They're in bad shape and may be in danger of the heads coming off the stems, which could be a disaster. The valves do not have to match one another.

for sure on the 2 to replace... got a couple extras for just in case.

The crank case on the passenger side looks to have what may be chalk markings on the cast iron underneath the paint. There's a good chance those are factory markings. It might be interesting to find out what they mean, if anyone knows.

I'll have to look more closely at/for this... I've never heard or seen of markings like this. I know the block was swapped in back in the late 70's (maybe in the 60's).

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

The crank case on the passenger side looks to have what may be chalk markings on the cast iron underneath the paint. There's a good chance those are factory markings. It might be interesting to find out what they mean, if anyone knows.

I'll have to look more closely at/for this... I've never heard or seen of markings like this. I know the block was swapped in back in the late 70's (maybe in the 60's).

Appears as if a past pressure washing blew some paint off.

[fireheadman]

no pressure washer touching this ride...
hand wash only.

[Scott_Conger]

Jerry, someone once told me that the Great Pyramid of Giza used to have a chalk hieroglyph that said "this way to the hidden entrance to the ball room" and Egyptologists bent on preserving the structure scrubbed it off before realizing its significance.

Neither the hidden door nor the ball room have ever been located.