Does anyone have an alternator conversion on their T?

[Jeff]

Does anyone have an alternator on their T? Buckeye sells them and states this on their website about them:

"The 12-volt version is capable of 80 amp output; the 6-volt version is capable of 40-amp output"

Model T's only have 12 AWG wiring in the charging circuit... and its 100 year old wiring to boot, nowhere near the ability to handle that kind of power if the alternator decided to put out it's max power.

Anyone seeing any issues?

Jeff

[Will]

Yes, I have 12V alternator, I love it. Many trouble free miles. Its from Larry Becker. Its about 13 years old or so. Of course we lost Mr. Becker a few years ago. His famous saying was as long as he was here it was guaranteed. I have his 12 volt starter also. Never a problem.

[CudaMan]

My '24 came to me with a Becker 6V one wire alternator. It has worked perfectly for the 12 years (and counting) that I've owned the car.

[Moxie26]

We also had the Larry Becker 6 volt alternator with a self-contained regulator on our 26 Runabout for 15 years, with no problems... Seem to be the only fix since going through a few Fun Projects regulators on the generator . Now running a fine generator and regulator detailed and rebuilt ...... By Jeff Stevenson..... Do you know him ???...... Thanks again.

[davet753]

I run a 6-volt alternator from Snyders - no issues at all. I’ve never noticed more than about 15 amps maximum charge rate on the ammeter. Once the battery’s fully charged, it slowly drops off to just a few amps.

[Nunsio1]

I have a Buckeye Altenator w/ 12volt conversion. Only 1 problem with Bering failure after years of good operation. Buckeye replaced the unit quickly, good folks to deal with & a good quality product. Also using 12Ga input wire, good idea to install fuse link on input wire & if you're running a stock engine and trans, put blue Locktite on altenator case screws to prevent them from becoming loose from the normal vibration.

John M
Oscoda, Michigan

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

I don't believe there was any question as to whether or not alternators can be dependable.

The question seems to be whether or not the possible 40A - 80A output concerns anyone. I suppose a battery with an internal short, or a short anywhere else the charging circuit, could trigger the max alternator output which would quickly fry wiring, etc. Do users of alternators commonly also install fuses?

I really don't have a dog in this fight, since I do not, and would not, use an alternator, but I do find the question interesting.

[Moxie26]

Just because an alternator's output, maximum output is listed, it's thanks to the internal regulator that controls the charging to the battery. In the years I was driving with that alternator on a 6-volt system, never once did I see the amp meter exceed 10 amps of charge , engine running after starting, settling slightly above zero a few minutes later.

[South Park Zephyr]

I have had a 6V on mine for about 2 years. It has been trouble free. I had a rebuilt generator on it and then the cut-out failed. This was the quickest fix for me. Chaffins had it in stock and shipped to me in just a few days.

[TXGOAT2]

I seem to remember reading of some alternator problems that may be heat/vibration related. That could be related to the T's gear drive and direct mount to the engine, rather than a bracket mount and belt drive. Or it could be related to improper gear lash. If I was worried about short circuits, I'd use fuses as appropriate. The stock T wiring is connected to a battery capable of delivering several times more current into a short than an alternator... with no fuses. Mounting the alternator to the block with an open spacer/adapter and a woods-type rubber drive coupling would probably be ideal. A bracket and belt arrangement using something like a timing belt to run the fan and alternator would be much cheaper.

[Jeff]

I don't believe there was any question as to whether or not alternators can be dependable.

The question seems to be whether or not the possible 40A - 80A output concerns anyone. I suppose a battery with an internal short, or a short anywhere else the charging circuit, could trigger the max alternator output which would quickly fry wiring, etc. Do users of alternators commonly also install fuses?

This is, indeed, the crux of the issue. 100 year old T wiring, rusty terminal blocks and years of well meaning owner wiring "upgrades" can create unsafe conditions with high output alternators. Upgrading your wiring and adding a fuse are both a must or you're playing with fire. Quite literally.

Anyway, I will post the very in depth article I wrote on these topics on my website at some point soon.

Jeff

[Jim Eubanks]

I am running a Becker 6V altl. Would like to know the price of a Buckeye 6v Alt. Looked at their website and could not find a price.

[JTT3]

Jim you have to call them for the price.

Pat I recall that post. I believe you’re right about gear mesh, as I recall the shaft on the alternator was either short or long causing the mesh to not be fully made on the timing gear. Could be wrong but that is my recollection.
Best John

[love2T's]

Does anyone have an alternator on their T? Buckeye sells them and states this on their website about them:

"The 12-volt version is capable of 80 amp output; the 6-volt version is capable of 40-amp output"

Model T's only have 12 AWG wiring in the charging circuit... and its 100 year old wiring to boot, nowhere near the ability to handle that kind of power if the alternator decided to put out it's max power.

Anyone seeing any issues?

Jeff

I finally bit the bullet after multiple attempts at getting my Fordor's generator to work and stay working. Broke down and bought a 6V alternator from Snyders and haven't regretted it. Does a fantastic job, after starting engine it goes to about 10 A and quickly falls back to around 2A and stays there, maybe a little less. Perfecto!

[TXGOAT2]

The running clearance of the gear drive could be an issue, whether you use a generator or an alternator.

[TXGOAT2]

The stock Model T generator feed wire is connected directly to the ammeter and battery. A short anywhere in this circuit would allow full battery current to be applied, regardless of the generator.

If I added an alternator, I'd add a voltmeter and heavier gauge modern type wiring to the battery charge circuit.

It would require a substantial current load to cause the 80 amp alternator to deliver anywhere near its rated current, and it might not last long doing that. Another thing to consider is the mechanical load such an output would place on the gear drive train.

A Model T generator in good condition is a reliable device. Adding a regulator to it makes it more reliable and easier on batteries.

[JBog]

I have had one of their's on my touring for almost 4 years with no issues. I'm not putting 1000s of miles on each year, but it's been doing just fine. My lead-acid battery shows a consistent charge and I have had the same battery for as long as I have at the alternator.

[love2T's]

I have had one of their's on my touring for almost 4 years with no issues. I'm not putting 1000s of miles on each year, but it's been doing just fine. My lead-acid battery shows a consistent charge and I have had the same battery for as long as I have at the alternator.

Again same here with no adaptations whatsoever as stated above. It was literally a 3 minute swap out too!

[Original Smith]

Forget it. The problem is usually the wiring. Rewire the whole thing, that means everything! An original 6v system is perfect.

[AndyClary]

I have to agree with Larry on this one. For around 200 bucks you can replace every wire on the car. Hopefully Jeff’s article on wiring safety will be in the Vintage Ford soon.


Andy