Ben's Model-T Pie Wagon [1911-1925]

[TXGOAT2]

If you carry loads, a Ruxtel would be a good accessory. Improving the brakes will have benefits, but you will still have very limited braking due to lack of any front brakes. The disc brake conversion would pair well with a Ruxtel axle.

[fireheadman]

Well I see this forum does use pages.... was wondering when it would roll to page 2.

I would not put STP or any similar product in a Model T engine. Model T engines and transmissions require "light cylinder oil", according to period Ford specs, which is about what today's 20W is . 10W30 detergent oil does a great job in a Model T under most conditions. If you drive in colder weather, 5W30 or 5W20 does a good job. Thicker oil causes a number of problems with Model T engines and transmissions, and it is not needed and specifically not recommended by Ford Motor Co. 10W30 exceed all Ford's specifications for motor oil for use in the Model T.

I will look into this some more...
as of right now, I am using straight 30w non-detergent oil (PureGuard).

If you carry loads, a Ruxtel would be a good accessory. Improving the brakes will have benefits, but you will still have very limited braking due to lack of any front brakes. The disc brake conversion would pair well with a Ruxtel axle.

A ruckstell is on the list! Maybe towards the end of the list, I need to get all the major safety items crossed off.

[TXGOAT2]

You'll get better results with a good 10W30 detergent oil. Regular 10W30 oil, synthetic blend, or full synthetic all work fine. In cold weather, 5W30 or 5W20 are best. Both the engine and the transmission need a light bodied oil that does not thicken up in colder weather. Multigrade oil will outperform any straight grade oil in a Model T under all driving conditions, and detergent oil offers the same benefits in a Model T as it does in a new car. No downside to it.

[fireheadman]

Been a bit since I last posted.... Got backlogged with some house projects!

I've been slowly working on my wobbly wheels issue.
Found out it is just a combination of several things, which I have put in a parts order for.
Replacing the steering column pinon gears (4 of them), the cover (found a nice brass one!), changing out the spindle brash bushings (kingpins), the right spindle arm - (I messed that up trying to smack it out of the spindle).

Since I have the front wheel off, I was able to get a quarter turn on on each of the 5 spoke/hub bolts (will need to peen them again so they dont loosen on me). The timken bearings look fine and same goes for the lower bushing on the steering column.


Aside from the steering/wheel issues... I finally decided to purchase the SureStop disc brake setup, so that is sitting on the workbench from Texas T parts. From speaking with them, i learned it is possible to craft/fabricate a thin tin/metal shield that will bolt onto the wheel bolts. If this works out good and does what I want it to... it should hide the "disc" look that I am not crazy about.

I also have a set of kevlar bands I picked up from Ann (Steve Kaniff's daughter), so need to get those installed.
I imagine with it being winter here, I will be moving a little slower on the the upgrades. Not really a fan of wrenches slipping on my knuckles in the cold. Last time I did that my index finger swelled up the same size as my thumb!

Oh, and I also have my seat cushion/springs I need to tie up and mount to a board so I can get a leather upholstery kit ordered from Classtique.

[fireheadman]

just a quick update... most of which is in this post:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=50245&p=383284#p383284

Have to find my warmer days to do anything in the barn (way too cold right now)!
But feeling like I might have the wobbly wheels under control.

Might wait for a warmer day to crank her up to get the oil drained and put some thinner weight in for the winter months.

Oh, and finally got my new generator in, need to get that installed and test out the ammeter