Starting Small

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ArthurB
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:22 pm
First Name: Arthur
Last Name: Babitz
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927ish Roadster Pickup
Location: Hood River, Oregon
Board Member Since: 2018

Starting Small

Post by ArthurB » Thu Oct 29, 2020 8:48 pm

I'm still pretty new to restoration so I decided to hone my skills on a small project. I bought a little running board toolbox on the forum, and got to work.
1) Rust removal: wire wheel on angle grinder, followed by Ospho treatment inside and out, then repeat. For latch, Dremel tool with wire wheel, then Evapo-rust in an ultrasonic cleaner.
2) Hole repair (was used as a battery box): 1/16" sheet metal patches bonded to inside with JB Weld.
3) Dent removal: body hammers and dollies. Excellent way to avoid watching the "debates" on TV, very therapeutic.
4) Dent filling: many layers of lightweight body filler, sanded with my new set of blocks. Discovered rolls of Duragold sandpaper are much better and cheaper than sheets, and 3M lightweight filler sands much better than NAPA store brand. I wasn't sure the filler would be flexible enough for this thin metal, but so far it seems fine.
5) Dismantle and repair latch, cut a new key
6) Electroplate latch mechanism steel parts with nickel-- surprisingly easy!
7) Paint with rattle can enamel. Primer, then sealer, then top coat. Last project I learned how important sealer is when you've used body filler. This time I discovered how hard it is to paint inside of box with rattle can, and how hard it is to keep a wet edge when spraying a 5-sided object. Broke in my $50 Home Depot paint tent-- definitely reduced setup and cleanup time in my garage.

Next time I will add a guide coat step to the body work, since gloss black shows the tiniest defects. I'm guessing no one but you guys would see them, but a guide coat seems like a simple way to judge when I'm really done sanding.

I highly recommend a small project like this for anyone who wants to learn the basics and build some confidence. I think I'm ready for some bigger body panels now.
box.jpg


Norman Kling
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Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 1:39 pm
First Name: Norman
Last Name: Kling
Location: Alpine California

Re: Starting Small

Post by Norman Kling » Thu Oct 29, 2020 9:28 pm

In the picture, it looks brand new! :P


OilyBill
Posts: 641
Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2020 3:51 pm
First Name: William
Last Name: May
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Runabout
Location: Tucson, Arizona

Re: Starting Small

Post by OilyBill » Thu Oct 29, 2020 9:38 pm

Very nice job!

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Topic author
ArthurB
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:22 pm
First Name: Arthur
Last Name: Babitz
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927ish Roadster Pickup
Location: Hood River, Oregon
Board Member Since: 2018

Re: Starting Small

Post by ArthurB » Thu Oct 29, 2020 10:04 pm

Norman, I am a better photographer than restorer. There are many defects, but if my first effort was perfect I'd have to find a new hobby. There's a good quote from Teddy Roosevelt (correct era for this site): "Nothing in the world is worth having or worth doing unless it means effort, pain, difficulty…"


Erik Johnson
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Last Name: Johnson
Location: Minneapolis, MN

Re: Starting Small

Post by Erik Johnson » Thu Oct 29, 2020 10:25 pm

Your Yale lock is missing the spring-loaded hasp.

It allows you to latch the box shut without having to lock it. It allows serves as a handle for lifting the lid.
Attachments
Yale lock.jpg
Yale lock.jpg (52.46 KiB) Viewed 4293 times

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Topic author
ArthurB
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:22 pm
First Name: Arthur
Last Name: Babitz
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927ish Roadster Pickup
Location: Hood River, Oregon
Board Member Since: 2018

Re: Starting Small

Post by ArthurB » Thu Oct 29, 2020 11:04 pm

Yes Erik, because the hasp is missing I'm not riveting the latch to the box. Just using screws for now. There is also an internal spring which has lost its temper. I plan to keep looking for a better latch and will replace it when I find one, but this one functions OK for now. If you want to steal my jack you'll just need an allen wrench.


Peter, Memphis TN
Posts: 80
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 12:00 pm
First Name: Peter
Last Name: Claverie
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Touring
Location: Memphis, TN

Re: Starting Small

Post by Peter, Memphis TN » Thu Oct 29, 2020 11:34 pm

Great work!

When I finished reconditioning one of those, and got ready to mount it on my running board, I got worried about the fact that it would be metal-to-metal, with some movement expected, and rust could build up under it without my knowing it.

I ordered 4 Isolation Dampers from Grainger, and used them to mount it.

Now, when I wash the car, I can run water beneath the box, flushing out any dirt or leaves, etc., and also I know it will dry quickly under there.

I couldn't copy a picture of what I used from the Grainger catalog, but if you search for a 2NNZ9, you'll get the idea. It comes in many sizes.
Attachments
2NNZ9_AS02 - Copy.jpg


Peter, Memphis TN
Posts: 80
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First Name: Peter
Last Name: Claverie
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 Touring
Location: Memphis, TN

Re: Starting Small

Post by Peter, Memphis TN » Thu Oct 29, 2020 11:35 pm

Son of a gun! It DID copy!


Erik Johnson
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Last Name: Johnson
Location: Minneapolis, MN

Re: Starting Small

Post by Erik Johnson » Sat Oct 31, 2020 1:04 am

I might have a round bottom Yale lock available - I'll have to look.

I do have some Corbins available - not necessarily these as this a picture from last year but have some in my stash.
Attachments
Corbin locks with keys.jpg


Allan
Posts: 6609
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
First Name: Allan
Last Name: Bennett
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
Location: Gawler, Australia

Re: Starting Small

Post by Allan » Sun Nov 01, 2020 1:11 am

Arthur, what you have is most likely a battery box. Battery boxes need to be taller than toolboxes. Tool boxes are usually longer in proportion to their height. Yours would work as a toolbox on a roadster, but its height would most likely interfere with being able to open a door on other than a US built Ford with no left hand front door. You have done a great job bring it back into as new condition. I had to do the same to the battery box on my roadster. The biggest problem I had was finding one on which to start.

Allan from down under.

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Topic author
ArthurB
Posts: 77
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2019 5:22 pm
First Name: Arthur
Last Name: Babitz
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927ish Roadster Pickup
Location: Hood River, Oregon
Board Member Since: 2018

Re: Starting Small

Post by ArthurB » Fri Nov 06, 2020 1:53 pm

Thanks for the education, Allan. I think it was sold to me as a battery box, but the size is perfect for where I want to mount in on the running board and it should fit all the tools I take on local drives. I never get more than 10 miles from my house, and it's always downhill to get home!

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Rich Eagle
Posts: 6895
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First Name: Richard
Last Name: Eagle
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1909 TR 1914 TR 1915 Rd 1920 Spdstr 1922 Coupe 1925 Tudor
Location: Idaho Falls, ID

Re: Starting Small

Post by Rich Eagle » Fri Nov 06, 2020 1:58 pm

It is wise to start with smaller projects and work up to larger ones. Some of us get overwhelmed when projects become more than we bargained for.
Nice work Arthur
When did I do that?


Allan
Posts: 6609
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
First Name: Allan
Last Name: Bennett
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
Location: Gawler, Australia

Re: Starting Small

Post by Allan » Fri Nov 06, 2020 7:03 pm

Peter's mounting idea is great. When I mount number plates on panelwork, I always put a short length of rubber fuel hose on the bolts so the plate stands off the panel, allowing dust/water to pass through.

On a T, I am reluctant to ever drill holes in a Ford running board, so I first mount a wooden base board using bolts and spacers through existing running board/fender boltholes. Then the toolbox is screwed to the base board.

Allan from down under.

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Steve Jelf
Posts: 7237
Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
First Name: Steve
Last Name: Jelf
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
Board Member Since: 2007
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Re: Starting Small

Post by Steve Jelf » Fri Nov 06, 2020 11:29 pm

I am reluctant to ever drill holes in a Ford running board...

Me too. I made a pair of brackets that bolt on the tool box and clamp on the running board so I can easily take the box off one car and put it on another.

IMG_0872 copy.JPG
IMG_0875 copy.JPG
IMG_0877.JPG
IMG_0360 copy 2.JPG
I did the same for the cans.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring


Erik Johnson
Posts: 1055
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2019 10:25 pm
First Name: Erik
Last Name: Johnson
Location: Minneapolis, MN

Re: Starting Small

Post by Erik Johnson » Fri Nov 06, 2020 11:58 pm

Instead of fabricating brackets/clamps, some folks use the clamps from running board pantograph luggage racks and bolt them to the bottom of the toolbox.

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