Advise on removing window regulator hondle

[DickC]

I now have a 1925 T coupe. I have had several T's and still have and some but they all are open cars and therefore do not have operating door windows. I need to remove the door fabric covered panel and wish not to take the wrong turn on removing the handle. Is there a split washer behind the handle scutchon (spelling ??) that needs to be pushed out to release the handle from the regulator shaft? Or some other way the handle is attached.

[TWrenn]

I recently had to take the regulator off my 25/26 Fordor, I know the Coupe's are a bit different. But in my case, all there was, was
a set-screw on the side of the handle, loosened it, and it slid right off. Hope this helps. I'm sure a Coupe person will chime in though. Behind the scutcheon there was nothing that I recall.

[DickC]

Thanks for the info TW. However I need to look more closely because I did not see a set screw when I looked. That was my first thought and that is why I had the question.

[John kuehn]

I have a 24 Coupe but the window regulator handle is held on with a large headed screw in the middle of the handle. Pretty easy to take off.
Since yours is a 1925 it might have the later handles I guess. Does it have steel framed doors or wood. Mine is a late 24 and has the wooden framed doors.

[DickC]

The doors are steel framed. I will look again but there certainly was not a screw in the center of the handle. As I said before, it didn't appear to have a screw anywhere on the handle. That made me think it may have a split ring under the scutcheon. I can't seem to move the scutcheon away from the handle so anything has to be behind or in back of the scutcheon. What do you think?

[George Mills]

I think...and only think...that you push the estuchen into the pad as far as possible and that will expose the hub of the handle.

That hub will either have a set screw or a pin...and you take whichever out and the handle slides off and the estucheon follows.

There are many variations on handles and originals were pot metal so don’t pry

[jiminbartow]

Push in the escutcheon plate covering the base of the handle to access the base of the handle and you should see a pin. Original crank handles had a pin that secured the handle. You can see the holes in the handles just below the shoulders of the window crank handles of the attached illustration. Jim Patrick

[DickC]

James P--That sounds like I thought but I did not think there was enough give to push the scutcheon in. I will try it today. Thanks for the help, Dick C.

[John kuehn]

I think the handle change came when Ford switched from wood frames doors to the steel frame sometime in 25. The later ones I have seen have the clip on the back of the handle that is accessed by pushing in the cover behind the handle and exposing the handle clip so you can push it off. It’s kind of hard to push in as I remember but the clip is there. At least on the one I’ve seen. Some had a pin I think but not sure.
Later Model cars used the same method of holding the handle on besides Ford. They look a little different but the idea is the same.

[jiminbartow]

I remember those John. Now that you mention it, when I first bought my 1926 coupe in 1970, both window regulator handles were badly corroded pot metal and broken off. They were secured by spring clips as shown in the photo however, there was no little spring as the photo shows, that I can recall. There is a special tool to push the clip out, but it can just as easily be removed by pushing the clip out or prying it off with a small standard blade screwdriver. I replaced the crank handles with two nice nickel plated repros secured by set screws. Jim Patrick

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[DickC]

James P--I found the pin and will be able to remove the handle. Thanks, Dick C.