Window Removal on 1927 Coupe

[BLB27]

Is it difficult to remove and replace the rear window and the rear quarter panel windows on a 27 coupe. I would appreciate any suggestions on how do it.

[jiminbartow]

Just unscrew the screws, remove the metal frames and pop ‘em out. Piece of cake. Best thing for you to do when getting ready to do any job on a Model T is to look at the job to determine what needs to be done and in what order and proceed with the most obvious approach. Some things are so obvious, there is only one way to do it. Have you ever gotten the books we recommended several months ago? If not, get them and study. They will really help. I promise. Especially when you get around to some of the really hard and confusing jobs...

[jab35]

Bruce: If your car has upholstry in it and you want to save it, it will require a little more finesse to remove and replace the glass. I am not aware of specific books covering this topic in any detail, the Ford repair shop manual may have some good info. The garnish molding on the back window is pretty straightforward, remove the molding and pop the glass inside. It will likely be stuck to the body and difficult to loosen. That rear interior window frame is wood on my '26 and the screws are wood screws, the '27 may be steel with machine screws.

Side windows with installed upholstry require several steps. There's a cloth covered strip covering part of the garnish molding, and that strip is held by blind upholstry studs in sockets in the frame, and that upholstered strip should pry off exposing several machine screws. The upholstered cardboard interior panels hide garnish molding screws along the bottom and rear of the side windows. IIRC, removing the seat and seat back exposes one or two screws and removing those and any interior exposed screws should allow removal of the cloth covered cardboards and access to the remaining garnish molding screws.

If you are changing to safety glass, check the thickness of new/old glass. The position of the moldings is fixed, so the fit and seal of glass in the body requires the combination of glass thickness and edge seal rubber to be the same as the original combination. Too thin and glass will be loose and leak, too thick and the moldings won't be right on the interior. I know there have been postings and pics on the forum about this over the years, but finding the one you need,,,,, well,,,, . Best, jb

[BLB27]

Thanks, jab35. The upholstery is out and the body is off of the frame. Will the safety glass be thicker than the original? If it is, how is this best handled?

[jab35]

The old Ford plate glass was 3/16". The new flat safety glass I had custom cut is listed as 1/4", but double check by measuring the actual glass you have and the glass you purchase. For example, the precut windows listed in Mac's catalogue (NOT a recommendation by, or any association with me) are 1/4" safety glass. I think most of us take the old glass to a glass shop for a pattern and have safety glass cut to fit. I'm sure others will chime in here, including some who were able to find 3/16" safety glass.

I haven't dealt with the thickness issue yet, but will look for thinner bedding channel if I can find it and if the thing is still too thick, place some cardboard shims underneath the upholstered panels behind the garnish moldings. jb