New Wheels and Tires for 23' Touring?

[jwilliams81]

Hello Everyone,

I am in the process of learning and budgeting for a complete wheel/tire rebuild for my new to me 23' Touring.
I removed the old cracked tires yesterday and the attached pictures are of course what I am starting with.
This will be a good driver and I am planning on spending the money to do it the right way the first time.
I will be painting the entire wheel assembly black as original, so I am just curious on the correct procedure for everything.

1.) Wood Spokes
Stutzman's Wheel Shop looks like what most people are using. but I have not called to ask any questions yet.
From what I read on here, they only do the spokes... no sandblasting of the hubs or painting.. that is all up to me, is this true? Are there any other companies I should look into?

2.) Hubs
Are these usually in good shape and usable?
Should I just buy brand new ones all around and do it right the first time?
Do I disassemble what I have then have them sandblasted?

3.) Steel felloes
Do I disassemble what I have then have them sandblasted?

4.) Rims
According to https://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG113.html the rims should be zinc-plated (galvanized).
What I have are original Hayes, but they appear to be painted. What are the steps to get them correct? Sand blast and have them galvanized?
Or do I buy new ones from http://www.americanvintagerims.com/ or another supplier that I don't know about?

Thanks in advance and let me know if I am missing something

[jwilliams81]

Has anyone had any experience with these companies?
Option 1: MEL'S Leather and Horsehair in Jeromesville OH?

Option 2: http://www.woodwheels.com/home.html

Option 3: Stutzman in Baltic OH
Seems like this is the go to. But the sandblasting of the metal felloes and hubs needs to be done beforehand.

[DHort]

After you have disassembled the wheels, save 2 spokes to send to Stutzman so he knows the size you need. Take the rest of the spokes to Woodcraft or Rockler where a woodworker will turn the spokes into "Pens for Troops'. Unless of course you make pens yourself.

[John kuehn]

If you want to repaint the steel fellows and hubs DONT put on a heavy coat of paint on them or if you believe you have to use a light coat on the sections where the wood spokes fit up to the felloe and the end of the that fits against the hub.
It’s happened more than a few times where guys have been overzealous with the paint and have had troubles getting the spokes pressed in correctly. The spokes need to have a good tight press fit. It doesn’t take a lot of paint to cause a fit up issue.
I am sure others will have other ideas!

[Allan]

John is on the ball. A single coat of black etch primer on sandblasted metal component is all that is needed for rebuilding wheels. When you get them back you are ready to finish them as you please.

Check rear hubs for worn/flogged out keyways, and check how far they go on your axles. Worn hubs will require a shim. It is better to replace them with sound examples. In front hubs just check that the bearing cups are a tap in fit. Sometimes they have been known to spin in the hub and wear the hub, resulting in a loose fit.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

[jwilliams81]

Would it be better to buy new front and rear hubs to make sure everything will last a long time. I'm 40 and want this all to last another 30 years

[Scott_Conger]

I'll ask a stupid question: have you actually driven the car and know that the spokes are bad?

I understand your eagerness to make the car reliable and long-lived, but be aware that while there are some great reproduction parts out there, few are as good or will last as long as the original. Continuing on the path you may well be headed down will lead to a completely disassembled car, looking for someone to buy the project/parts, in 10 years. It is more common than you might imagine. Find a club and find yourself a mentor who doesn't have more money than brains and can help you make this your dream car without outlaying another $5000 - $10000 in the process. The wrong mentor will want to help you turn your car into parts and will definitely want to help you drain your bank account in the process. That's not the guy you want.

[Steve Jelf]

IF you're sure you need new wheels, go ahead. I had Stutzman make the new wheels for my 1915, and there is nobody better. But for my 1923 with demountables and steel felloes I bought the spokes and assembled the wheels myself with the Regan press. And yes, do go light on the paint where the spokes fit together.

I agree with Allan on the hubs. Check the rears for wear. You can put them on an axle shaft to be sure they don't go on too far. I wouldn't buy new hubs when there are so many originals for so much less.

I had my Hayes rims hot dip galvanized nine years ago, and I'm very pleased with the results. But since then it seems the price of galvanizing has gone nuts. Today I might go with Oklahoma chrome (aluminum paint). Rattle can Rustoleum aluminum looks pretty good, is very durable, and costs a small fraction of real galvanizing. Another approach to rims is to get several people to have their rims galvanized as a group. The last time I checked, the minimum price covered up to sixty rims. So the more you get done, the lower the cost for each. I believe Ignacio Valdes took that route. Maybe he can comment on how that turned out.