Manifold Gaskets

[Dennis_Brown]

Which is the best to use, the 3 hole gaskets with the internal rings or the individual flat metal gasket with the internal rings?
I know it is a personal preference but which is the most used?

[Tim Rogers]

These are far superior to anything else...

[Allan]

With respect, there is a far better option than the split gland ring an crushable copper ring, the one piece copper gaskets, Snyder's part no. T3063-CR.
They are quite robust. They have an inbuilt gland ring, so no juggling of multiple parts. The ring is quite thick enough that a file can be used to make a chamfer on it to aid in fitting when the manifold is slightly bent. They are re-usable multiple times. That helps to amortise their greater asking price.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

[DanTreace]

These are far superior to anything else...

Caveat. These original Ford gland and crush do need proper install. The ports in both the manifolds and block should be clean and deep, without rust or pitting. The gland can be trimmed to fit best, they need to fit fully in the ports, and the crush then can do their work to seal the openings.

Sometimes the glands need straightening and sometimes need expanding or trimming to make them fit satisfactory. Otherwise the crush rings won't compress to seal completely.


And the exhaust manifold is very prone to warping, be sure the ports are in alignment.

As for those Snyder's 3063-CR, for me the copper tubing used when formed became work-hardened, and the 'crush' didn't happen. They leaked. The crush rings have a high temp fiber filling, and those never fail to crush and seal. Yes they are one time use, but a new crush ring is only $.80!

Crush Ring on left, crushed and complete seal, One Piece formed copper tubing, didn't fully compress. Leaked.

[Steve Jelf]

For me the correct originals are best, as they work well and are less than half the price of Snyder's gizmos. On a block with some pitting on the side I add a little hi-temp RTV to help them seal.

[Allan]

There is one essential when fitting a T manifold. It must be supported with gland rings in the ports. Repeated heat cycles cause expansion and contraction within that long manifold, leading to stresses which tend to bend the manifold. Most are low at the back port to some degree.Often the bent manifold will not allow the fitting of the ear gland. Then you must rely on the clamping force of the nut and bridge to keep the manifold tight to the block. This will work for a while, BUT, that back port is free to move with each heat cycle, making the rear port a prime source of leaks and erosion of the block due to same. The gland ring is needed to stop the port moving with the heat cycles.

I make my own glands from exhaust piping, so they have no joins and problems with losing their shape. They can also be tapered somewhat on the block side of the manifold, to aid in getting them enter into the ports. Because they are a continual circle, I can use gaskets cut from the cheap green 3 in 1 gaskets sold by the vendors. Regardless of gasket style, I always use an exhaust sealant called Maniseal. This is a silica based paste which hardens with heat to provide a certain seal, with the added benefit that it holds stuff in place during the fitting process.

The Snyder's one piece gland ring/copper crush ring will act as a gland ring and crush ring. They can be tapered on the block side for easier fitting. With the sealant to help hold things in place, they are a great way to make a trouble free installation.

Others will have differing opinions.

Allan from down under.

[TXGOAT2]

Once you have a good installation, preserve it by avoiding running the engine under load with late timing. Running the engine loaded, especially at higher speeds, with late spark timing will make the exhaust manifold run very hot, which will over-expand it and contribute to warping, both of which will tend to loosen the manifold to block connections.

[speedytinc]

These are far superior to anything else...


gaskets.jpg

There is room for improvement.
I have found a few of those steel rings collapsed & lost into the manifold or muffler. This may be from forcing a slightly bent exhaust manifold into position. The manifold must be straight. To completely prevent a lost ring, replace those bent sheet metal strips with slices of thin wall (.062" )tubing. Thin enough to not bottom out after the crush. Tubing will last a long time. Many reuses. Replace the copper glands each install. The rings are key to keeping the manifold from warping.
Bob's has some new variation made with thicker steel. Have not seen them yet. I have never felt the need for extra goop to make the seal. The glands seem to conform to minor surface pitting. Serious pitting on the manifold means a light resurfacing or replacement is needed. A badly pitted block might benefit from a little goop.

[Dan McEachern]

What John said is true regarding the rings either burning out over time or collapsing. I've never understood why the manufacturer did not simply make the rings out of stainless steel rather than mild steel to solve the problem, as the increased cost would be insignificant. Not sure that thicker material is the solution. I've used the one piece rings as an alternative to the 3 piece ones due to the ring problem, and so far, so good. I found the one piece ones need a chamfer added to the ends so that everything slides together upon assembly easier. You will never get the one piece rings to work with even a slightly warped exhaust manifold. I also put some hi temp RTV around the intake rings so make sure there is a good seal.

[TWrenn]

Like oil arguments everyone to his own. For me its the 3063-CR. I swear by em.

[Allan]

Dan, I cheat a little on some one piece glands. For an out of line rear, and occasional front one too, I make offset gland rings. I cut pairs of half width rings and set the up with an offset, up to 1/8", and weld them together on the inside. The glands are fitted into the block, with the offset oriented downwards to accommodate the lower back port in the manifold. I cut gasket rings from the green one piece gaskets the vendors sell. With Maniseal to help, they work a treat with a bent manifold.

Allan from down under.

[Steve Jelf]

Exhaust manifolds warped less than ¼" can be straightened. I was once told that straightening burns up more gas than the cost of a new manifold, but that has not been my experience. Somebody else suggested that if a manifold is warped ¼" or more you can straighten it halfway, then come back the next day and straighten it the rest of the way. I'll try that the next time I straighten a bunch. A problem with buying a new manifold is that the only ones being made are the 25-27 style. If you want the earlier type it has to be original.