IGNITION SWITCH Question

[Professor Fate]

[image]
Is it correct to have continuity between the battery and mag wires, tested at the back of the switch, with the key and lights in the >>off << position?
My car runs with a jumper from battery to coil and key off.
It will not buzz coils off the switch, and.... with the key on, I get no buzz from any cylinder, and a very small amount of voltage at all the plugs at the.
Short in the switch?

[Scott_Conger]

Dan, meet James...

https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22664

[John kuehn]

Have you ever taken the switch off the dash and taken it apart to see the inside of it ?
Its not a lot to it and it’s almost always the problem with the contact areas inside.
If it’s the tab type pry up the tabs and lift out the switch back.
If it’s the pin type twist to one side and lift off the back.
The brass spring contacts either get dirty or a little weak.
Pry out the spring contacts a little and that usually is the issue.

Another issue is that the key cylinder gets to wiggle due to wear. That’s why wiggling the key causes the switch to work for a bit and then quit again.

If all the wiring is intact and not broken it’s the mechanical workings of the switch internally that’s almost always the issue and not an electrical problem.
If that’s not repaired your switch will not very work right.
I bought a new switch back from Lang’s and all is well now.

[Norman Kling]

Will your car run on Magneto when the key is switched to magneto? Any connection between the battery and the magneto will usually unmagnetize the magnets and then the magneto will no longer work. With the switch off there should be no continuity between the battery and any other connection except possibly a horn or stop light, however, they should be routed through the ammeter at the terminal block, but not the switch. Only horn which is connected to the magneto would be a magneto horn which was originally used on cars without batteries.
Norm

[Professor Fate]

Two 3 way switches as pictured are becoming ever more appealing..... thanks Scott for the link.

[Professor Fate]

So you think I've trashed my magnets with the old switch?

[speedytinc]

So you think I've trashed my magnets with the old switch?

Not trashed, demagnetized. Its easy enough to recharge them. AFTER you get the switch sorted out.

[Professor Fate]

Bummer..... you just sealed it... two 3 ways it will be.
Any advice on switches[load capacity)? I'm mechanical but electrically dumb.

[TRDxB2]

Here is what the switch internals look like. As stated above the inner switch contact ring that rotates between the MAG & BAT contacts only makes contact with one or the other. Can you explain how/where this jumper is connected "My car runs with a jumper from battery to coil and key off." and how you disconnect that voltage source.

[Dan Hatch]

Looks like a job for Ben. AKA switchman.

[RajoRacer]

Talked with Ben this a.m. - he's up to his A_ _ in Alligators !

[JamesD]

Bummer..... you just sealed it... two 3 ways it will be.
Any advice on switches[load capacity)? I'm mechanical but electrically dumb.

The ones I used were rated at 25A. You can find them here: https://picocanada.com/view_product/9439-11

[Professor Fate]

Hi!
The jumper i referred to is a wire with alleygator clips hooked to the
(+) battery terminal and the power input bolt underneath the coil box. Ibdid thus to bypass the switch. The switch was in the off position and not connected to the battery at the time of testing.

[Professor Fate]

Hi!
The jumper i referred to is a wire with alleygator clips hooked to the
(+) battery terminal and the power input bolt underneath the coil box. I did this to bypass the switch. The switch was in the off position and not connected to the battery at the time of testing.

[TRDxB2]

Long shot - does you coil box have just one post for voltage input or one for Mag and another for Bat? Looking at the wiring diagram and the picture of the switch, if wired correctly, not much chance of continuity between MAG & BAT. A "bad" switch usually makes no contact, a shortage, rare, could result by over lubricating tumblers with graphite and having that work its way into the steel cup that holds the switch internals. The switch internals don't need lubrication once assembled. The key contact is directly connected to the tumbler and doesn't really ride on anything. The light contact ring does ride on the bottom of the steel cup and could wear, but I have lots of these and none show wear. Usually the steel cup does.

[Professor Fate]

One post only on coil box.