Removing Lenses From Electric Headlights

[Bill Everett]

Pictured is a fork mounted electric headlight. (I've been unable to upload a picture)

There are no hinges for the ring that holds the glass lens in place.

Can anyone tell me how to get the ring off? I'm guessing that it may twist, but despite tryiing, it won't budge.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you.

Bill Everett

[TRDxB2]

It helps to understand how the rim is secured and what might be holding it back. As you are aware the rime has 4 riveted clamps to hold the glass in place. Each of these rivets slide into grooves in the headlight bucket. There is a retaining spring ring to keep things in place and from rattling. Lots of things to bind and get stuck with dirt and rust. What I have found is that it helps to kneed (squeeze) the rim against the lip of the bucket all the way around, you know you got things free when you can actually feel it depress around the rivets.
Once you got this done:
If the buckets are off the car - place them face down on skid free surface, press down and rotate the bucket counter clock wise.
If the buckets are mounted - have someone steady the bucket while you push the rim against the bucket and rotate it counter clockwise. You can try using the rim tool, set on a pair of rivets, pushing in and rotating counter clock wise

[George House]

That rim tool has never worked for me. If the headlamp rim absolutely won’t budge when accomplishing all the above, take a very slender screwdriver and pry against the rim using the ring on the bucket as a fulcrum at the 4 rivets. You might want to consider spraying some WD 40 after a while but be careful; the rim and lens might pop off and break on the floor.

[TRDxB2]

That rim tool has never worked for me. If the headlamp rim absolutely won’t budge when accomplishing all the above, take a very slender screwdriver and pry against the rim using the ring on the bucket as a fulcrum at the 4 rivets. You might want to consider spraying some WD 40 after a while but be careful; the rim and lens might pop off and break on the floor.

I agree (1000%), the rim tool is useless, some DIY work. But before risking splitting a an old rim they should try kneeding yt with palm on the rim and fingers on the bucket OR both methods. What usually cause the problem is that the retainer spring rusts and sticks to the headlight lip. That needs to be broken loose. The have just four bent tabs that cause the bind and they are usually located either side of the slot on the bucket, but not within 1/2" of the rivet otherwise the rim rivet could not be placed into the slot

[DanTreace]

Unless lots of obvious rust, they will come off. The rim tool works for me, but first penetrating oil, and then tap tap the rim all around to allow the penetrating oil to do it work, vibration helps free up the stuck pieces. A soft face rebound mallet works for that. WD-40 is useless as a penetrating oil.

For the tool, pad the grip arms with folded towel to secure it to the rim, and protects paint too. If all else fails, then a thin screwdriver blade can be inserted at the rivet heads to pry gently, or to apply more penetrating oil.

The task takes a big push in on the rim, to compress the reflector spring, and at the same time as the hard push, rotate the rim counterclockwise. Body English helps here, upper thigh force!

[Allan]

The wire spring is located behind the reflector. It does not move. It has no role in preventing the rim from coming off other than the anti rattle load it puts onto the lens through the rope lens gasket. The headlight rim needs to be freed up so it can be rotated counter clockwise. Light, repeated blows to the side of the rim will help break down any rust. A good quality penetrant will help. Once the rim is free enough to allow it to be pushed to the back of the lamp, then it can be rotated couner clockwise to disengage the rivets from the slots in the headlight rim. This job is far easier on a mounted headlight.

Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.

[John kuehn]

I use WD 40 and ‘remembering’ to push in on the rim usually does for me but it is not real easy if the spring is a good one!

[Chuck Regan]

Bill - both my rims were frozen on the buckets still installed on the car. In addition to above advice, I’d add have some patience. I used PB Blaster (favorite penetrating oil) and squeezed the rims over several days till they moved freely inwards against the bucket. Then, wearing cheap split leather work gloves - suede finish helps grip, I had a buddy turn the rim while I squeezed it against the bucket. Besides rust and dirt, deformation to the bucket slots (previous prying?) didn’t help.
A little straightening with a trim hammer, cleaning and minimal lubrication and they now can be removed without cursing.

[Steve Jelf]

I agree (1000%), the rim tool is useless, some DIY work.

It depends on the tool.

This home made one works for me.

It has four holes that fit over the rivets, and is padded with Gorilla Tape to prevent scratches.

It's helpful to lean in against the rim as you turn. Before reinstalling the rim, lubricate the contacting surfaces of the rim and the bucket with plenty of candle wax. That will ease the next removal. It's a good idea to have a thick carpet or a foam pad on the floor during this operation.

[RajoRacer]

Steve's idea is great & loosely based on a rim removal wrench illustrated in the Ford Service Bulletins - simple blacksmithing involved without the need for a hinge. I've had good results with the headlight off the car on a piece of rubber belting on the floor so I could use my weight to force the rim down then twist.