Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

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Kenny Edmondson
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Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Kenny Edmondson » Fri Mar 29, 2019 5:40 pm

I’ve got a 24 Fordor restoration that is nearing completion to where it’s going to need paint soon. Just curious if there are any suggestions regarding a user friendly paint to use? HVLP or regular spray gun? Something that can be done in the garage?


John bevardos
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by John bevardos » Fri Mar 29, 2019 5:48 pm

I have used Duplicolor paint shop system gloss black laquer and great results . Its inexpensive and I shot out doors.

John


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Adam » Fri Mar 29, 2019 5:54 pm

Hvlp. BLACK epoxy primer and BLACK Urethane. (Or a primer as close a match as possible to your topcoat).


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Kenny Edmondson » Fri Mar 29, 2019 5:58 pm

A question on the HVLP paint. Does it spray and cure like regular paint?

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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Ruxstel24 » Fri Mar 29, 2019 6:10 pm

HVLP (high volume low pressure) is a paint gun.


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Fozz71 » Fri Mar 29, 2019 7:31 pm

I highly suggest that if you choose to go with a two stage paint (Urethane+hardener) you’ll want to invest in a breathing apparatus otherwise you will harden your lungs.

For that reason, if for no other, consider a single stage enamel.

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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Rich Eagle » Fri Mar 29, 2019 7:43 pm

From the other side of the tracks I like Van Sickle Enamel. Slow drying and less glossy than better paints. It is cheaper and less toxic if the appeals to you. Just an alternative but I like it. I think it makes a T look like a T. If you want a show car get something else.
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Allan » Fri Mar 29, 2019 7:52 pm

I would steer clear of enamels, as the slow drying time is an invitation for bug and dust particles, unless you have a spray booth. I would also steer clear of two pack finishes unless you have breathing apparatus and a spray booth. My paint of choice is lacquer, if you can get it. It is easy to use, is forgiving of glitches in application, touch dries before bugs know you are painting, can be used outside or in any well ventilated shop, and is easy to touch-up if necessary. Besides, to my eye, the finish looks better on old cars.

Allan from down under.


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by John bevardos » Fri Mar 29, 2019 7:55 pm

Allan,
took the words out of my mouth!!

john


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Kenny Edmondson » Fri Mar 29, 2019 8:23 pm

I wasn’t sure if the HVLP spray mixtures had to be mixed differently or not. I appreciate everyone’s input. Thanks.


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Rich Bingham » Fri Mar 29, 2019 10:15 pm

Back to what Rich E. recommended, Van Sickle paint is an excellent choice. Of anything you can use today, it probably comes closest to the original factory finish. Consider using a brush. I'm bemused by the popular conception that "spraying" paint is the "only" way to apply it, and that it is what guarantees a quality finish. In the greater scheme of things, praying paint is a really recent development in the long history of applying high finishes to fine instruments, furniture, carriages and . . . automobiles. It's not the method of application that produces a quality finish, it's surface preparation, full knowledge of the handling characteristics of any given coating, and finish detailing that yield good results. And yes, it can be done with a brush.
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Steve Jelf » Fri Mar 29, 2019 10:45 pm

This is slightly OT but related. You can make a paint booth with some conduit and plastic drop cloth. Cheap, cheap, cheap.

IMG_2625_1.JPG
Mine is for parts, but there's no reason you couldn't make one big enough for a car.
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Burger in Spokane » Fri Mar 29, 2019 10:47 pm

Kenny, a few things to consider ....

I've done a lot of painting, cars, houses, industrial, you name it. Been messing with old cars
since 1977. The first thing you need to decide is what camp you fall into for desired finish.
Generally, this means very shiny and perfect, or a rougher, more historic or "used" look. All
the rest of the discussion hinges on this decision.

HVLP is the latest and greatest way to deliver material to the surface with the least amount
of material waste and environmental "intrusion" of toxic vapors. Nothing more, nothing less.
You can apply anything from straight water to paint to Irish whisky with an HVLP. The material
being sprayed is irrelevant. It's just the method of getting the goods where you want them.

I am with Allan. I LOVE working with lacquer. I LOVE the way it goes on, lays out,, touches up,
repairs. It is the easiest paint to work with. That said, with the way environmental laws are
going, it might be easier to acquire plutonium than lacquer anymore. I have not used it for auto
apps in a few years.

All those epoxies, urethanes, and 2-part stuff can deliver stupidly durable and beautiful finishes,
but that leads back to the first question you gotta ask yourself ... what's your end goal ?

Good luck. Please post photos as you more along.
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by svibert » Fri Mar 29, 2019 11:01 pm

my vote is for centari 99a gloss black unfortunately lacquer is close to unattainable

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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Bob McDaniel » Fri Mar 29, 2019 11:59 pm

fozz71 wrote:
Fri Mar 29, 2019 7:31 pm
I highly suggest that if you choose to go with a two stage paint (Urethane+hardener) you’ll want to invest in a breathing apparatus otherwise you will harden your lungs.

For that reason, if for no other, consider a single stage enamel.
I agree with this statement to a point. The enamel will work and cost less but if you get a run, sag, bug, hair, speck of dust or anything in the paint, and you will, it is going to be there forever and will be next to impossible to fix unless you know what you are doing. On the other hand, the Urethane+hardner (known as single stage) will cure hard and in a day or two you can wet sand the spot smooth and if you have enough paint on it and don't sand through the finish, you can buff it back to a high gloss and its done where the enamel wont let you do this for a long, long, time. Also the Urethane will hold its shine for 10 years in the hot sun around here where the enamel will oxidize in 3 to 5 years. If you never take it out in the sun the paint will outlast you. I have always used PPG but they have a low cost line called Omni that the paint store might offer you. It will work but is no better than enamel and not worth it in my opinion. If you want your paint job to last get the best paint. I expect anything I paint to last 20 years or more on my cars. I used Omni on a trailer I sand blasted and in 5 years the gloss black was flat black. I have not tried the Omni 2 stage urethane (base+clear) and never will. I use PPG 2 stage 99% of the time but shot single stage on a 1903 curved dash Olds replica for a guy that wanted to use spray cans and it looked great till we sat it in the sun to cure faster. That black paint got hot and puckered up like a prune so the next day I wet sanded it smooth and buffed it out to a glass like finish. He was real happy I talked him out of enamel after that! If you get a bug or something big in the paint pull it out (tweezers) as soon as you see it and then shoot another light coat over the area to help level the paint a little and then go back with another coat later after it flashes off. It wont be perfect but you will have more paint to work with when wet sanding it smooth later. Runs or sags are not the end of the world either with urethane. I can sand them smooth and buff the finish so you will never see them but there is a trick to it. The owner of the shop I worked in always got to much paint in the side vent of 50's Corvette's we did and I got good at fixing them for him.

I wish you were a little closer, I would come down and give you a hand. I always enjoyed the paint work and need to get back to work on mine.
Give an old car guy a barn and he won't throw anything away.


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Kenny Edmondson » Sat Mar 30, 2019 5:40 am

Thanks Bob, I wish you were closer. 😁 Thanks to everyone else too. All of this is good stuff to consider.

Regarding the lacquer paint, how does it hold up to UV and being outdoors? This car is one that will be a driver, but I want it to look nice and hold up.


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by d stroud » Sat Mar 30, 2019 5:50 am

I haven't had any direct experience with lacquer paint, but I have seen some that was applied many years ago that cracked big time. Maybe poor quality paint, poor application, poor prep, etc., dunno. Just an observation. Dave
1925 mostly original coupe.

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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Steve Jelf » Sat Mar 30, 2019 9:27 am

...unfortunately lacquer is close to unattainable


IMG_2737 copy.JPG
I bought this at the local hardware store.

IMG_2738 copy.JPG
Recently I replaced modern carriage bolts with correct ones and had to touch up the windshield stanchions. I'll see how the lacquer holds up.
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Ruxstel24 » Sat Mar 30, 2019 10:58 am

Lacquer is the easiest to work with, yes.
Don't be fooled by the lack of a hardener...it's still a lot of volatile chemicals. Ketone and Toluene are both harmful and should be protected from inhaling.
The worst part of the finished lacquer is it's very hard and brittle, chips easier and cracks easier than enamel.

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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Andyclary » Sat Mar 30, 2019 12:32 pm

No paint recommendation, but I will add that there is no auto painting where you shouldn't be wearing a respirator.

Andy


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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Ken Buhler » Sun Mar 31, 2019 12:19 am

During my apprenticeship for auto body and paint we learned there two methods of adhesion, mechanical or chemical. Mechanical comes with etching (sanding) or chemical (solvent). Lacquer is the only paint that is soluble in it's own solvents. Lacquer can theoretically be sprayed over lacquer and it will melt in. Of course you need to remove oxidation, silicone, grease, or other pollutants beforehand. Lacquer on lacquer is great for spot repairs as you can do a very nice blend where the edges can be polished out. Lacquer dries from the bottom up as it quickly gets a skin and the solvents rise through it as it dries, and enamel dries from the top down as it gets a skin that traps the solvents that take time to escape. Enamel paint works best when you paint a complete panel. Recoating or repairing enamel before it is aged (maybe a year or more) brings the risk of solvents causing wrinkling of the base coat. Using curing agents can assist the aging process. Dupont Centari was introduced in about 1975 and soon after was nicknamed "The paint that made the painter". It was/is a nice product to work with. There are other very good products out now, I used PPG black on my G.T.O. frame and am very happy with how it laid down and sticks. I may use it on the T chassis coming up.

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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by twrenn » Sun Mar 31, 2019 10:18 am

Due to what I perceive to be a victim of "adult A.D.D." and the accompanying short attention span, I only skimmed a
few replies. So FWIW, here's two pics of what I painted on my former '12 touring (splash apron and a fender), I used PPG Concept DCC9300, with the appropriate hardener and reducer and a small can of something to give it that "wet look", which half the time you don't really need! This paint is not cheap, but really goes and flows well! But of course prep is paramount as I've learned the hard way. I sprayed these parts (also some not pictured) using merely a Preval glass bottle/aerosol unit, typically found at any local parts store for around $8. Thinning to the right
consistency is critical, trial and error will show you.
Attachments
'12 touring L.R. door open copy.jpg
'12 touring new fender paint copy.jpg
'12 splash apron repaint copy.jpg

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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by tinman080 » Sun Mar 31, 2019 1:43 pm

Get a gallon of black acrylic enamel, fast reducer (thinner), and a pint of spot hardener( sets up quickly). Get your car ready. On a still morning roll it outside on a clean tarp. After 10 minutes or so tack it and shoot it. Most dirt in a paint job comes off the car. Clean it, tape it carefully, and if you ain't in the Gobi Desert or the Everglades your paint job will be surprisingly clean. Any runs or bugs can be water sanded and polished after 2 weeks cure time if you used hardener. I sprayed acrylic enamel for many years professionally and prefer it over anything else. These 3 replica cars are wood bodied, lacquer primer and acrylic enamel with hardener shot out in my yard on the grass. The black Model A Ford trunk is wood. Best of Luck!
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by Rich Eagle » Sun Mar 31, 2019 3:03 pm

Not to flog a dead horse but here is a brake handle brush painted with VanSickle. If we are talking about old enamels, Dulux was the best but disappeared 20 years ago. Rust-Oleum is good also. Whatever you use and like is your favorite. If you don't mind the slow dry try this. It is my favorite now. I like Centari but is has become obsolete too as most paints do over the years.
VanSickle.jpg
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by d stroud » Mon Apr 01, 2019 3:35 am

I learned as a young teenager when I got my first TT, anything that is a casting or rough forging can be painted with a brush and will come out just like it was sprayed, no brush marks. I still do that on occasion. Just a thought. Dave
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Re: Best Black Paint For Painting a T?

Post by twrenn » Mon Apr 01, 2019 5:33 pm

Tinman...last I knew there was no more acrylic enamel to be had, which is why I ended up switching to PPG Concept. I loved the good old enamel, but I have to say I like this Concept urethane stuff a lot better! Just sayin'

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