I Need Help!

[BLB27]

I need help removing the lock from the door on my 1927 coupe. Attached are three photos showing how far I have gotten in removing it. Suggestions please.

Do I just keep on chipping away the material?

[david_dewey]

The lock is in a pot metal unit, which often swells a bit, and the wood does too (assuming it is a wood-framed door), so it's really a tight fit in there. Add a couple of layers of paint run behind and aaaaugh! It looks like you have taken out the lock retainer screw, so that's done. You could try to wedge a screwdriver in the key hole and try to turn the whole unit back and forth a bit to get it to free up. Some light tapping on the square shaft that is sticking out might help too as some Kroil in the hole so the square shaft isn't rusted to the latch mechanism.
Good luck!

[MichaelPawelek]

In your third picture see the tiny hole on the edge of the door level with the lock on the right? Shine a flashlight in the tiny hole and you should see some type of a set screw. Unscrew the setscrew and the whole lock assembly should just slide right out of the door. At least that is the way it is on my 25 Coupe though I don’t know if that is the original set up. Someone in the past had used a modern screw that turned with a Allen wrench so you could not see it in the tiny hole without a flashlight. It took me forever to figure out there was a tiny screw inside that hole and it is the only thing that holds the assembly in the door frame.

If you cannot find a original replacement lock the ones on Ebay are direct replacements. All you have to do is slide the new lock into the door, mark the excess shaft sticking out the inside of the door, and cut to length where just a tiny bit of the shaft sticks out the door on the inside. Maybe 1/8”.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/350794224732

[J1MGOLDEN]

The same lock was used on Ford pickup trucks until 1948, and they are available from Snyders or from anyone that has a Model A catalog.

The only difference is the length of the square internal part, which is easily sawed off.

[MichaelPawelek]

I had to go to the Ebay site for the new lock I posted because the Model T vendors were out of stock.

[BLB27]

I have used Kroil. There is not a set screw inside the small hole. The screw that goes into the hole serves as a retainer for the lock assembly. My main concern is that if I continue to remove the material that surrounds the "key" that I might damage material that "surrounds" the lock assembly.

I have purchased a new lock.

[Scott_Conger]

I cannot help but ask the question: why are you removing things AFTER the body was blasted???

I know it is not helpful toward your problem, but boy, I'm still stumped by this.

[MichaelPawelek]

Take the plate off the end of the door hasp and see what is on the inside.

[perry kete]

I would remove every screw around the lock or close to the lock because at some point in time someone may have installed a longer screw then necessary and it is holding the lock in the door

[BLB27]

Scott, What is the problem with removing the lock after the blast cleaning? I did remove the door handles before blasting, but I did not see a problem with removing the lock after blast cleaning.

[TXGOAT2]

Blast cleaning damages surfaces and shotguns grit and dust into mechanisms. Grit can, and probably will, become embedded in metal surfaces, especially brass, pot metal, aluminum, copper, zinc, etc.

[speedytinc]

Scott, What is the problem with removing the lock after the blast cleaning? I did remove the door handles before blasting, but I did not see a problem with removing the lock after blast cleaning.

You intended to destroy the lock & remove it later? You were not aware that would happen?

[TXGOAT2]

Using penetrating oil on the body after blasting invites paint adhesion issues. Best to get everything off before blasting or other paint/rust/crud removal process.

[BLB27]

I use acetone around any location where is likely to be oil contamination.

[jiminbartow]

I’m with Pat. I was one of the ones that begged you not to blast your Model T’s perfect, pristine body, as it does irreparable damage to the original factory surface. Now the once smooth surface is as rough as sandpaper and sand fills every nook and cranny that will dislodge at the worst possible time, usually ruining freshly painted surfaces. It would have been much better to take more time and remove the paint with paint remover thus avoiding the damage blasting has caused, the effects of which will be revealed as your restoration progresses. Live and learn. Jim Patrick

[Bryant]

From studying my 26 door it would appear that if you could remove your door latch mechanism it would open up a window to the back side of the lock. You might have to sawzall away at the locks inner square rod to release it completely. After that I would assume the rest of the lock would have to be continued to be dismantled carefully as to not bust up the door workings. Maybe a pair of vise grips on the square rod and a properly sized drill bit run thru the tumbler? Take your time Success is waiting.

[BLB27]

I got the old lock out by carefully knocking out the pot metal (that is shown in the earlier post) with a small punch. The pot metal (don't know if that is the correct word) was really tight. I don't believe there was any other way to get it out.

Hope this may help some one in the furture.

The attached photos show the results. I will have to shorten the new rod. I knew that when I ordered it

[MichaelPawelek]

Great to hear you were successful. Many small projects on the Model T that should take 30-45 minutes end up becoming much longer….