My 1912 Haighs chocolate van was getting very hard to crank start, so I had to fit a replacement H1 carb Stan Howe rebuilt form me. I was disassembling the original one to check how the float arm/needle and seat looked when I discovered the likely cause of the hard starting. The laminated cork float had shrunk somewhat, making it loose on the arm. As a result the float was able to move on the tiny bolts, up to 3/8", so i had a variable height float setting. Of course, removing the assembly resulted in a broken cork float, so now I have a job carving a new replacement.
I bought an incomplete third H1 at a swap meet, and was trying to see whether a replacement float arm I discovered in my spares stash was correct for it. It wasn't!
Allan from down under.
Holley H1 carburetor problem
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Allan
Topic author - Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
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JTT3
- Posts: 1855
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:57 am
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Tannehill
- Location: Hot Coffee, MS
Re: Holley H1 carburetor problem
You can get the arm from Lang’s. You can repair the cork float by super glueing it together and then coating it with a product called Red Kote. I actually have repaired several cork floats that way on H1’s, 5 balls, Holley G & 4 balls.
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Corey Walker
- Posts: 637
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 11:46 am
- First Name: Corey
- Last Name: Walker
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 runabout, 1921 homemade truck, 1921 Speedster
- Location: Brownsboro, TX
- Board Member Since: 2007
Re: Holley H1 carburetor problem
If you don’t want to pay for shipping from the USA for a float arm you can make one out of brass then get a needle and seat for a Quadrajet carburetor and put it in there. You don’t have to modify it for an H1. Assuming you can get a Quadrajet needle and seat in Australia at a local parts house. Just drill and tap 3/8-24. Then you won’t have to worry about the finicky original setup.
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Corey Walker, Brownsboro, Texas
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Allan
Topic author - Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: Holley H1 carburetor problem
John, thanks for the tip about the arms from Langs. They must have been problematical. The one in the incomplete carb was broken diecast. The one in my original is a brass casting. The float looks like the one on the left in your photo
Corey, thanks for the photo of the made up float hinge. That should not be a problem to make. I still need the stepped plug/hinge pin that screws in the side. The float you show looks much like a Holley G item. my H1 float is much lighter than that one.
Quadrajet carbs were used on some Holden engines here in Australia, so I'll have to look into a local supplier. Stan fitted a viton needle and seat to my rebuild carb. He offered the tap to fit others, but he did not indicate the vehicle/carb on which it was used.
Allan from down under.
Corey, thanks for the photo of the made up float hinge. That should not be a problem to make. I still need the stepped plug/hinge pin that screws in the side. The float you show looks much like a Holley G item. my H1 float is much lighter than that one.
Quadrajet carbs were used on some Holden engines here in Australia, so I'll have to look into a local supplier. Stan fitted a viton needle and seat to my rebuild carb. He offered the tap to fit others, but he did not indicate the vehicle/carb on which it was used.
Allan from down under.