Muffler issue

[NY John T]

Hi All,
My (almost) new replacement muffler has a 9/64 gap at either end where the end cap is tack welded to the outer shell. As you can see in the photo, exhaust gasses are leaking at both ends (and into the car).

The rolled seam seems to be the problem as it prevents a tight seal of the end caps. In addition, the muffler does not fit tightly on to the new tail pipe. Even with a clamp tightly on, the muffler just slides all over.
Has anybody had the same problem with these mufflers? What can be done? Has anybody disassembled it, and what have you done to get a tighter fit of the end caps, and the muffler on to the tail pipe? I’ve read all the postings and have seen that a Walker F0-11 muffler is one way, but comments are that it is louder than the original style. Thanks so much for any ideas.
John

[Humblej]

Modern replacement mufflers and exhaust pipes are not made like Ford did it. Best solution is to braze or weld the muffler ends to the side and use a muffler clamp for the exhaust pipe to muffler connection.

[TXGOAT2]

A exhaust pipe expander tool can be bought at most auto parts stores. It's a hand tool that is capable of expanding several sizes of exhaust pipe or muffler end pipes. It can be used to make tight joints. You can expand the end of the exhaust pipe to be snug fit in the muffler. If you get it too tight, you can use the same tool to expand the muffler end pipe to fit. However, I don't know if one is widely available to fit the small Model T exhaust pipe.

[pron022020]

That doesn't look like the modern replacements, more like an older lesser quality one. The caps were never perfect seals to the tube. I suggest buying a new one from Snyders as I did and have no problems.

[NY John T]

Hi all,
Thanks for the replies. I looked carefully at the Snyder's and it looks exactly the same (six spot welds on the grooved/lock/rolled seam). Were all vendor's mufflers made by Snyder's? Where the side seam of these mufflers enters the end caps there is that same gap on either side (where my gaps are 9/64 inch wide.
If I take it apart, could I grind off the seam smooth where it enters the end cap, thereby eliminating the bulge? I've attached a shot from John Page from 2013 which shows a bulge on the end caps to allow the seam to fit tightly.

This is how the mufflers SHOULD be manufactured.
Thanks

[A Whiteman]

In frustration I bought a length of stainless truck exhaust pipe as close as possible to the right diameter and threw away the junk seamed one. Clamped up tight and it works well (just make sure the ends are cut square).

(photo shows why it was junk

First Run 21-02-09 (1).jpg (43.46 KiB) Viewed 2833 times

[Pep C Strebeck]

I looked carefully at the Snyder's and it looks exactly the same (six spot welds on the grooved/lock/rolled seam).

I do not think that they are the same. look at the end caps on the photo of the one from Snyders, look at how the end caps are formed to fit over the lock seam and the lack of welds at that point.

Compare that to the photo of your muffler. The end caps are not formed to fit over the lock seam (causing your leak) and there are welds at that point as well. Also there are spot welds on the muffler that you show in your first photo holding the end caps in place (red arrows). I agree with the above post, an older lesser quality reproduction part.

I had a horrible time with a reproduction set of cast iron muffler ends with the same issue. No matter what, you could never get a good seal at that point where the seam was. As they were reproduction parts, I filed a recess into the muffler ends and then everything fit fine with no more leaks. I now have a nice original set of muffler ends on the car (thank you Joe Bell) and they fit much better.

[Professor Fate]

I was told the pipe and muffler joint should allow the pipe to slide freely as the frame of the car bends and flexes on uneven terrain/roads. True???
Also, I had my muffler slide off the pipe while climbing a steep roadside from a parking lot at an angle, which made the whole car twist and flex. Sounded like an old tractor!!

[Professor Fate]

I was told the pipe and muffler joint should allow the pipe to slide freely as the frame of the car bends and flexes on uneven terrain/roads. True???
Also, I had my muffler slide off the pipe while climbing a steep roadside from a parking lot at an angle, which made the whole car twist and flex. Sounded like an old tractor!!
My friend said "Henry didn't use any clamps...."

[Kerry]

Do like Henry did, rap in asbestos, the vendors have a modern replacement rap.

[Humblej]

Dan, Henry did not use a muffler clamp because there was not a pipe connection where there is with the repo pipes and mufflers. The original exhaust pipe was one piece that went from the manifold all the way back to and through to the back end of the muffler. The original pipe was held to the rear steel end of the muffler with a nut and stud much like the inner pipe is with the repop mufflers, this allows the pipe to twist inside the muffler, for origional and repops. So clamping a repop exhaust pipe to the stub front pipe on a repop muffler will not prevent the muffler and exhaust pipe from twisting. Failing to use a muffler clamp at the pipe to muffler connection may cause leaks, and the pipe falling out of the muffler.
I do not know why the repop steel end mufflers and exhaust pipes are made wrong, but it is not an improvement.

Frank, Henry did not wrap asbestos around the steel end style mufflers.

[Kerry]

Jeff, the longer engine pipe to do as you describe was introduced in the mid teens, part #4037 to 4037B.

[Humblej]

This is an original Ford 1924 exhaust, same as used on 1926-27. The exhaust pipe goes all the way thru the muffler to the back of the steel end and is held on by a stud and nut, the exhaust pipe has a bead rolled into it at the front steel end and these features are what holds the muffler together. The exhaust pipe and muffler become a one piece part for vehicle assembly that is fastened to the car at two points, the exhaust manifold in front and the ear on the rear of the muffler on the back. No muffler clamps because there are no pipe joints at the front of the muffler.

[NY John T]

Hi Pep C,
The muffler I showed is NOT a Snyders muffler. It is a stainless steel one built by John Page and a friend back in 2013. I used it to show how mufflers SHOULD be made with a "bump" on the rim of the end caps where the seam fits nicely. I'm sorry for any confusion. It is not from one of the vendors. I wish he could have provided mufflers to others.
John