Need a little guidance, my brain hurts
Assuming my research is correct I need to replace the spindles on my 1927 Touring, black ones are off my car, unpainted ones are the replacements I bought. Is it correct that I need to take spindle arm T282B off the old right hand spindle and put it on my replacement right hand spindle and Spindle arm T270B needs to taken off the right replacement spindle and put on the left spindle? Clear as mud.
I think the opening in the axle for the spindle arm is suppose to be 4.750 and mine is 4.800 is there a problem adding a steel washer between the bushing and spindle to make up the difference, my preliminary measurements show I might need to add up to a .040" washer, it looks like the inside top and bottom of the right side axle was faced off at some time opening up the dimensions to 4.800"
Thanks for the help,
Bruce
Correct 1927 Spindle and arm
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- Posts: 6523
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- First Name: Scott
- Last Name: Conger
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Re: Correct 1927 Spindle and arm
Bottom line: L & R spindle arms are all the same from '19-27...use your old ones. Spindles on '26-27 have the stub shafts off-center and they lower the front end. Easy to see at arm's length and not have to worry about PNs.
Before worrying about shims and farting around with that, simply buy the front end kit and likely find that the overly-thick bushings will more than fill up the space on the axle. They are made thick so that they may be trimmed down to fit. Don't ever, for any reason put a shim on the bottom like you're showing. If you must shim, capture it between the spindle body and the bushing.
Finally, measure the ID of the spindle body and the OD of the bushing. I have found them to be sometimes a far too different value to safely press in without risking damage to the spindle. If that is the case, consult a machinist's manual for the proper press fit and alter the bushings as required.
Before worrying about shims and farting around with that, simply buy the front end kit and likely find that the overly-thick bushings will more than fill up the space on the axle. They are made thick so that they may be trimmed down to fit. Don't ever, for any reason put a shim on the bottom like you're showing. If you must shim, capture it between the spindle body and the bushing.
Finally, measure the ID of the spindle body and the OD of the bushing. I have found them to be sometimes a far too different value to safely press in without risking damage to the spindle. If that is the case, consult a machinist's manual for the proper press fit and alter the bushings as required.
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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Re: Correct 1927 Spindle and arm
I'm confused as to which is which by the black ones (they have the missing spindle arms) the other complete ones have red paint on the m. The red paint ones look like they are for 1919-1925, Not that they wouldn't work. Spindle arm changes were primarily change to clear the wishbone.bmklawt wrote: ↑Mon Apr 04, 2022 1:57 pmNeed a little guidance, my brain hurts
Assuming my research is correct I need to replace the spindles on my 1927 Touring, black ones are off my car, unpainted ones are the replacements I bought. Is it correct that I need to take spindle arm T282B off the old right hand spindle and put it on my replacement right hand spindle and Spindle arm T270B needs to taken off the right replacement spindle and put on the left spindle? Clear as mud.
I think the opening in the axle for the spindle arm is suppose to be 4.750 and mine is 4.800 is there a problem adding a steel washer between the bushing and spindle to make up the difference, my preliminary measurements show I might need to add up to a .040" washer, it looks like the inside top and bottom of the right side axle was faced off at some time opening up the dimensions to 4.800"
Thanks for the help,
Bruce
1926 & 27 spindle ares go by different numbers
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger
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Topic author - Posts: 234
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- First Name: Bruce
- Last Name: Klawiter
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Touring
- Location: Holland MI
Re: Correct 1927 Spindle and arm
The black one are at the top of the photo, they are the one I took of of the car, the ones at the bottom of the photo are what I purchased from a forums member and believe to be correct for a 1927.
I did buy a spindle bushing kit and it appears I still may be a little short of 4.800"
I did buy a spindle bushing kit and it appears I still may be a little short of 4.800"
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Re: Correct 1927 Spindle and arm
If that's the case, I'd jump on the lathe and turn up a thin brass/bronze washer that is captured by one (not both) bushing...probably the top one. If you use brass/bronze, you will not have any rusting problems. Use solid material...not sintered/oilite material
Scott Conger
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
Tyranny under the guise of law is still Tyranny
NH Full Flow Float Valves™
Obsolete carburetor parts manufactured
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- First Name: Mike
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Re: Correct 1927 Spindle and arm
I have added a washer to the bottom of a spindle before and didn't have any trouble with it. But Scott's idea of putting it on the bushing before putting the bushing into the spindle seems like a better way to do it.
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Re: Correct 1927 Spindle and arm
Before you invest time & money is resurrecting these, just one last thing, I supposed you checked threads and keyways, but did see if the outter race of the inside wheel bearing will fit properly on the spindle? The right one looks a bit pitted
The past is a great place and I don't want to erase it or to regret it, but I don't want to be its prisoner either.
Mick Jagger
Mick Jagger