What is the best aerosol carburetor paint.

[jiminbartow]

I just rebuilt my Holley NH Carburetor and would like to paint it gloss black. In your opinion, what is the most durable gloss black aerosol paint that looks great and will stand up to gasoline, oil and heat. The last paint I used to paint my carburetor did not stand up well. Thanks. Jim Patrick

[TRDxB2]

Why not use one of these under $10 and available most everywhere

Rust-Oleum Automotive Engine Enamel allows you to refresh and customize engines and other automotive surfaces that reach intermittent temperatures of up to 500°F. The durable Stops Rust formula provides excellent rust and corrosion resistance and protects against gas and oil. Any-angle spray with comfort tip features easy application for hard to reach areas and reduced finger fatigue.
Durable enamel designed for auto engines and metal surfaces
Gas and oil resistant enamel uses Stops Rust technology for ultimate protection
Resists heat up to 500°F
Paint dries to the touch in 20 minutes
12 oz. can of paint covers areas up to 12 sq. ft.
Creates a gloss finish for the perfect look
Any-angle spray with comfort tip allows for easy application in any direction
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This appears to be a new product
Rust-Oleum® Engine Enamel creates a smooth finish and is formulated for use on automotive engines and other automotive surfaces which reach intermittent temperatures up to 600°F (315°C).
Ceramic Coating
Resists Heat Up To 600°F
Superior Color Retention
Chemical Resistant
Stops Rust Formula

[BobShirleyAtlantaTx]

I like this stuff, can be had at most of the major chain parts stores around here.

[speedytinc]

First off, the carb body was not painted black. I paint mine a natural cast iron. I also use the duplicolor engine paint. I have had good luck with a finish coat of flat or satin clear laq. My carburators dont leak.

[Dropacent]

As John said, they weren’t painted. They were finished in a raven finish, or “parkerizing” , a type of semi blackish/ grayish rustproofing. Eastwood has a blackening solution that gets you very close. You seldom ever see them restored correctly.

[Steve Jelf]

I wonder how many of the folks who want their carburetors to look original have "natural" wheels on their cars.


I prefer a satin finish on chassis parts, especially the engine. But glossy or satin, ordinary Rustoleum is OK for carbs. If your carburetor gets so hot it needs a hi-temp paint you've got a much more important problem than how it looks.

[BobShirleyAtlantaTx]

The choice of engine paint has nothing to do with it’s heat resistance, that is just one of the built-in factors of the paint. I use it because it’s tough, holds up well and readily available.

[John Codman]

If your carburetor ever reaches 500 degrees - even for an instant, you have significant problems somewhere else.

[Dropacent]

I personally could give a hoot what anyone does to their T, but just hoping they love it.I’ve never in my life looked someone’s car over and told him what’s wrong with it, in my learned opinion. The guy asked about the paint to use on a part that was never painted from the factory. What he does with the info provided is up to him, totally. Wonder what it’s like to go to sleep every night worrying about painted wood wheels? I think Freud may have had a name for it. Xylophobia, the fear of wood

[Humblej]

The MTFCA Encyclopedia lists black paint for carbs starting in 1913.

[jiminbartow]

I have always painted my carburetor gloss black because I think it looks good. Last time I used regular gloss black paint and due to the higher than normal heat in the engine compartment and exposure to gasoline, it got soft and failed. I am hoping the high heat engine enamel will make it more durable to exposure to heat and gasoline.

This morning I taped off the brass parts and painted my carb with the gloss black Duplicate-Color Engine Enamel from Advanced Auto Parts. It looks great. I’ll post a pic when it has cured. Thank you all. Jim Patrick.

[Steve Jelf]

[Dropacent]

IMHO, the encyclopedia is wrong about this. Put yourself in manufacturer’s standpoint. Finish a big barrel full of parts in one shot, when you are pumping out thousands of cars a day, OR paint an item that you have to be concerned about plugging up a hole, linkage, and to NOT get any paint inside anywhere. AND, being an item in close to proximity of a solvent( gasoline) would just remove the black paint anyway. Like I said, do what you want, and Jimmy cracked corn………… it’s just funny these people worried about correctness do these things to parts. Did they paint the brass carbs? Why not? I’ve had more than a handful of NOS carbs over the years finished like I mentioned, but what do I know? I do suspect the VAST majority of restored carbs are black, so they must be right and correct , huh? If are are set on a rattle can paint job, cast black like John mentioned would be just about right. Again, JMHO

[speedytinc]

I agree that the bowls were some kind of black chemical conversion like a black parkerize. Many bowls retain this finish. However, I have not seen any kind of finish remaining on the bodies(NH) No paint or parkerize. I have 2 NOS simplex carbs. Absolutely bare iron body. Never had a NOS NH. That has led to my assumption that bodies were unfinished, bare iron. So I have painted the bowls a flat or semigloss black & the body a cast iron paint to maintain a correct? longer term appearance.
So you are saying & are sure the bodies were some sort of black, parkerize type chemical finish like or the same as the bowls.
If so, Why have I not seen evidence of a body finish on some of the lesser abused carbs that have their bowl finishes still intact?

Do you think a stove black would make for a correct body finish? (Wood burning stoves) It ends up a matt/semigloss black.

[Dropacent]

John, I don’t think it would have made a very robust finish, certainly not something that would have lasted decades let alone 100 years. Maybe ten years ago, perhaps a bit more I purchased part of a big carb collection out of meechigan. A picker friend bought hundreds, and I was able to pick and choose some really great stuff. I scattered it to the winds, but the big bucket of NOS lowly model T carbs was certainly an afterthought in the original collectors horde. Perhaps a handy person could find pics in the archives, as I eventually sold them all here, or perhaps an original buyer still has one of them on his shelf. The bodies were almost a pickled finish, light to medium gray. The body and the bowl, and attached metal parts. Genuine NOS and I never use the term lightly. After 100 years, what they started out looking like I have no idea. I had thought a raven finish , perhaps parkerized. One thing I know ABSOLUTELY , they weren’t painted. From my memory, a cast blast finish would be pretty darn close out of a rattle can. FWIW

[speedytinc]

John, I don’t think it would have made a very robust finish, certainly not something that would have lasted decades let alone 100 years. Maybe ten years ago, perhaps a bit more I purchased part of a big carb collection out of meechigan. A picker friend bought hundreds, and I was able to pick and choose some really great stuff. I scattered it to the winds, but the big bucket of NOS lowly model T carbs was certainly an afterthought in the original collectors horde. Perhaps a handy person could find pics in the archives, as I eventually sold them all here, or perhaps an original buyer still has one of them on his shelf. The bodies were almost a pickled finish, light to medium gray. The body and the bowl, and attached metal parts. Genuine NOS and I never use the term lightly. After 100 years, what they started out looking like I have no idea. I had thought a raven finish , perhaps parkerized. One thing I know ABSOLUTELY , they weren’t painted. From my memory, a cast blast finish would be pretty darn close out of a rattle can. FWIW

Another possibility. Many years back I bought a half dozen axles. They were black, like maybe from a burned garage. Further investigation yielded they were NOS & had a protective coat like parkerize. Maybe/likely they were shipped with this extra protective coating.

I dearly appreciate the feed back. It is my goal to rebuild/restore as correct as possible.

[Dropacent]

I’ve had an axle and Hyatt bearing just like that, John. I think I still have the Hyatt

[sweet23]

That simple question sure opened a can of worms,,,,,,,,,,,

[speedytinc]

That simple question sure opened a can of worms,,,,,,,,,,,

.....................Or it opened the discussion to give folks a choice to do whats more correct?.

[jiminbartow]

I didn’t realize there were so many anti-paint members on here. I painted my carburetor using the high heat gloss black Duplicolor. It went on smooth and I am very satisfied with the results. The following pictures are for the pro-paint members. Thanks to all of you who gave me advice on my original question. I’m not here to change anyone’s mind. Jim Patrick

[Scott_Conger]

Jim, I'd have to say, "paint or no paint" is the least interesting or controversial thing regarding your carb...

[speedytinc]

Is that a set screw in the bowl breather hole? (In line with the choke shaft)

[jiminbartow]

John. No. No set screws in any breather holes, but I can see how you might think so, judging by the other pictures. Jim Patrick