Help! I am baffeled!
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Topic author - Posts: 700
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:00 am
- First Name: Jonah
- Last Name: D'Avella
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Kingsport TN
- Board Member Since: 2020
Help! I am baffeled!
I am trying to obtain a set of top irons for my 26/27 touring. I have located a set, but they look different than another set i saw. Any ideas what i am missing? or are there different variations of the one man top for the improved touring?
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- Posts: 268
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:48 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Bourgeois
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914, 1926, 1927
- Location: Waco, TX
- Board Member Since: 2007
Re: Help! I am baffeled!
Looks like the top one is just missing the wood.
The tricky part is going to get the curved wood past the back big rivet.
The curved can be made with a lot of patience. I believe the cross wood can be purchased.
The tricky part is going to get the curved wood past the back big rivet.
The curved can be made with a lot of patience. I believe the cross wood can be purchased.
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- Posts: 1957
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:23 pm
- First Name: Jeff
- Last Name: Humble
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Canadian coupe, 1924 TT C-cab, 1924 runabout
- Location: Charlevoix, Mi
- Board Member Since: 2006
Re: Help! I am baffeled!
Jonah, the rusty ones are 23-25 one man top irons. The ones in primer are 26-27 touring. You can tell by the curve of the irons at the socket where they fasten to the car top prop bracket.
Last edited by Humblej on Thu Jun 02, 2022 10:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- First Name: Norman
- Last Name: Kling
- Location: Alpine California
Re: Help! I am baffeled!
It looks like mine. I used straight wood for the part in between the two sides. You can get it in a kit from the vendors, or if you are handy with wood, you can make your own. Most important thing is the length. Especially the front bow. The ends must fit exactly between the clamps which attach it to the windshield posts.
Then for the curved pieces I used packaged oak veneer which comes in a roll at Dixeline or other lumber/hardware store. The veneer has dried glue which, when heated will stick. I formed it layer by layer and used a hair drier to heat it to stick. That part of the wood is mainly to hold tacks for the pads and ends of the top. The pads and cloth straps will keep the distance between the bows. Most important to get the back bow the correct height from the back of the body. Not from the ground, but from the body. And also the the straps will pull the bows tight between front and back. Then comes placing the top!
Norm
Then for the curved pieces I used packaged oak veneer which comes in a roll at Dixeline or other lumber/hardware store. The veneer has dried glue which, when heated will stick. I formed it layer by layer and used a hair drier to heat it to stick. That part of the wood is mainly to hold tacks for the pads and ends of the top. The pads and cloth straps will keep the distance between the bows. Most important to get the back bow the correct height from the back of the body. Not from the ground, but from the body. And also the the straps will pull the bows tight between front and back. Then comes placing the top!
Norm
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- Joined: Fri Jan 04, 2019 9:37 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Jelf
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1923 touring and a few projects
- Location: Parkerfield, Kansas
- Board Member Since: 2007
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Re: Help! I am baffeled!
I don't know about 26-27, but the earlier top bows are not straight. If you set one on the floor you will see about ½" of space under the middle.
The inevitable often happens.
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
1915 Runabout
1923 Touring
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- Posts: 4727
- Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
- First Name: john
- Last Name: karvaly
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
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Re: Help! I am baffeled!
This curvature identifies the irons as 26/27.
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Topic author - Posts: 700
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:00 am
- First Name: Jonah
- Last Name: D'Avella
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Kingsport TN
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Help! I am baffeled!
Thank you all so much for your help! Now that I have acertained that the rusty ones are not 26 27 touring one-man top iron's, I'll continue my search. thank you!
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Topic author - Posts: 700
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2020 8:00 am
- First Name: Jonah
- Last Name: D'Avella
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Kingsport TN
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Help! I am baffeled!
Also,I didn't know that and made one man top irons before 1926!
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- First Name: john
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
- Location: orange, ca
- Board Member Since: 2020
Re: Help! I am baffeled!
You are correct, but relying on this curved end only could bite you coming across an earlier bow set that has been "modified"Jerry VanOoteghem wrote: ↑Thu Jun 02, 2022 12:12 pmThis curvature identifies the irons as 26/27.
Capture.JPG
Note there is more mechanism(bars) on a 26-7 touring set.
Your statement is the way to identify roadster irons, in that, the 23-27 bows look & work the same except for the bent end.(Front bow is manually lifted from a fork to a pin tab on the second bow.(like the 23-25 touring #2 to #3 bow)
The working mechanism is totally different in the touring irons between 23-25 & 26-27.
Last edited by speedytinc on Thu Jun 02, 2022 4:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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- Posts: 1152
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- First Name: Robert
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- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Touring
- Location: Fredericksburg, VA
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Re: Help! I am baffeled!
I got my top bow wood for my 26/7 Touring from these guys.
The make the kit with everything already bent along with the rivets.