seal for front of pan
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Topic author - Posts: 65
- Joined: Mon Jan 21, 2019 6:22 pm
- First Name: Nick
- Last Name: Miller
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 touring
- Location: NRedington Bch, FL
seal for front of pan
We have a 1926 improved touring. The front seal for the crankshaft does not seal. The hood, motor and firewall gets covered with spots of oil. Is it possible to fix this seal with the motor in the car? If yes, how?
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- Posts: 4433
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:00 pm
- First Name: John
- Last Name: Kuehn
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 19 Roadster, 21 Touring, 24 Coupe
- Location: Texas
Re: seal for front of pan
Here is a earlier thread about replacing the front crankshaft seal. Using the modern type of seal instead of replacing the original style is used most of the time to keep doing a lot more work which the original requires. The T parts suppliers sell the modern seal and it does definitely work. Read the thread and there are some suggestions in using the modern seal. Good luck. https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/1 ... 20988.html
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- Posts: 2433
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:55 pm
- First Name: James
- Last Name: Patrick
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1926 Coupe
- Location: Bartow, FL
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: seal for front of pan
The following thread from 2012, www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/313252.html, details how I installed the gaskets and seals in my engine to make it virtually leak free. Jim Patrick
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- Posts: 1906
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:22 am
- First Name: craig
- Last Name: leach
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Firetruck/1922 Speedster
- Location: Laveen Az
Re: seal for front of pan
Hi Nick,
I didn't read all the replies so this may be a duplicate, if you can get the pulley off the crank you can cut down a modern seal to clear the pulley and install it backwards on the crankshaft it will need to be siliconed on the pan & timing cover. It is best to get a seal with a double lip. I use the product called great stuff. It sets up firmer than most. You will need to clean the cover & pan very well. I have had so much luck with this that I install one on every engine rebuild. If you run one of the aluminum pullies you may have to machine a little off the back of the pulley to get enough clearance to do this.
You can remove the timing cover & pull the old felt out & install a rope seal using the Chinese finger trap device but it appears some do not have very good luck with that. If you find out you have a modern seal already on the crank it will be pretty challenging to get it out but it can be done and will take a long time to clean out the silicone that held it in to install a rope seal. ( I have never tried to install a felt with the pan on)
Good Luck.
Craig.
I didn't read all the replies so this may be a duplicate, if you can get the pulley off the crank you can cut down a modern seal to clear the pulley and install it backwards on the crankshaft it will need to be siliconed on the pan & timing cover. It is best to get a seal with a double lip. I use the product called great stuff. It sets up firmer than most. You will need to clean the cover & pan very well. I have had so much luck with this that I install one on every engine rebuild. If you run one of the aluminum pullies you may have to machine a little off the back of the pulley to get enough clearance to do this.
You can remove the timing cover & pull the old felt out & install a rope seal using the Chinese finger trap device but it appears some do not have very good luck with that. If you find out you have a modern seal already on the crank it will be pretty challenging to get it out but it can be done and will take a long time to clean out the silicone that held it in to install a rope seal. ( I have never tried to install a felt with the pan on)
Good Luck.
Craig.
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- Posts: 1128
- Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2019 8:16 am
- First Name: Richard
- Last Name: Gould
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1910 touring, 1912 roadster , 1927 roadster
- Location: Folsom, CA
Re: seal for front of pan
Back when I was younger and more ambitious, stupid perhaps, I replaced the felt in the pan with the engine in place. Of course I had to remove the radiator and timing gear cover, then used a needle nose pliers and screwdriver to pull the old seal out from one end. I didnt have a problem with the felt separating. But if I had, I would have figured a way to snake it out. To install a new one, I wound a couple loops of baling wire around one end of a new felt and worked it thru the groove in the pan. By pulling the wire and pushing the felt from the back end with the pliers, I managed to get it in place.
I don't know if Id do it again, but it beats pulling an engine.
I don't know if Id do it again, but it beats pulling an engine.
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- Posts: 681
- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:00 pm
- First Name: Gene
- Last Name: Carrothers
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Torpedo Roadster
- Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: seal for front of pan
Nick, If you google my name with mtfca front seal you'll find a lot of info. Short answer to a leak free crank is fixed by using a modern oil seal glued on backwards to the outside of the front cover with Ultra Black gasket sealer. It's best to flatten the seal out sort of like a daisy flower. No more leaks.. I do know some guys that use this seal when assembling the engine instead of the felt wick but I do not. I believe there may be a link to some of these old threads listed here
1912 Torpedo Roadster
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- Posts: 681
- Joined: Wed Jan 23, 2019 3:00 pm
- First Name: Gene
- Last Name: Carrothers
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 Torpedo Roadster
- Location: Huntington Beach, Ca
- Board Member Since: 1999
Re: seal for front of pan
John posted a link to one from years ago BUT Do NOT use JB WELD!!!! Use Ultra Black or The Right Stuff because these are flexible and rubber based that have great adhesion but can be removed! There is a couple of part numbers for the seals listed
1912 Torpedo Roadster