is there an easier or correct way to trim bows? How long should the bows end be trimmed?

[TBones12]

I am shaving the top bows ends to fit the top irons by using a grinder with wood cutter wheel.

Is there an easier or correct way to trim new bows?

How long should the bow end be trimmed to slipped onto the bow? I estimate 6 inches........?

Thanks!

[Humblej]

Use a spokeshave and take off a little at a time by hand.

[Allan]

Grinding/sanding across the grain like that will make the job difficult. A draw knife will be better for bulk removal, and a spoke shave for more accurate finish work. Then sand along the grain to get a neat fit. There is no tear-ass quick way to get a good fit that I know of.

Allan from down under.

[DanTreace]

This earlier post may help. The depth of the wood bow into those oval sockets depends on the height you measured to have all the bows set, in order, for the top cover to be at the proper pitch front to back.


https://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/2 ... 1205772092

[Marc Roberts]

I have used a power hand planer and belt sander with a 36 grit belt to sculpt until close on jobs like this, but a spoke shave or draw knife is the more cautious approach.

[Allan]

The difficulty with any power tool is maintaining control of the process. It is vital that the bows are as good a ft as possible if the top is to sit/stay correctly lined up. Getting the bows to sit at the right height, with maximum support within the socket, takes time and effort. This task is the foundation of the top, and a neat installation that will hold the correct line, demands that attention is paid to detail. It took me hours and multiple fitting trials to get the bows lined up on my 1915 tourer.

It is far easier to work with our colonial bodies than with Ford originals. Duncan and Fraser used flat iron mechanisms on their tops. The irons were screwed to the inside of bows which dropped all the way down the outside of the ironwork. This is similar to the hood set-up on A model deluxe roadsters. These assemblies can be fitted up wit G clamps before any screw holes are drilled, and shaping/adjusting the length of the timber can all be done once the fit is achieved.

Allan from down under.

[Wayne Sheldon]

Wish I had a picture to share. I have two artisan woodworking files that I bought about fifty years ago. Both alike, have a flat side, and a slightly rounded side, one each half was very coarse, the other end only coarse. I love those files. The really coarse side cuts and shapes even hard woods quickly, while the merely coarse side smooths them out nicely.
If I ever get far enough along on my 1915 runabout? I know THAT is how I am going to shape and fit the wooden bows.

[Marc Roberts]

The kind that look like a cheese grater are nice, too.

[Norman Kling]

It depends on what year car. The earlier ones with the oval irons and the bent wood ends, would be trimmed for the height above the body. The ones with the curved irons would be trimmed so that all stack together and the snaps on the bows would fit together. They should be straight up at the sides of the car. The later cars with the front bow fastened to the top of the windshield posts would be very important that the clamps would align with the windshield posts. Some of the holes for the brackets are on the iron part, so the wood would be cut to fit perfectly between them.
Norm

[Oldav8tor]

I'm with Jeff - a spoke shave and patience. Once you get the shape a sander can help a little but you don't want to get too aggressive with power tools.