It's Charging! It's Charging!

[CatGuy]

Finally yesterday I saw the results I've been hoping for! I bought another new alternator (I haven't been able to get the other one back - long story) and put it on.....but first, someone suggested that I should run a ground wire to the engine. The car came to me with a ground wire from the starter to the body frame. The car always started fine. Maybe the previous owner knew something? This time I ran a #10 ground wire from the battery negative frame mount up to the Hogshead and from there over to the front of the generator mount, fastening it to one of the alternator bolts. That did it! I know that Henry Ford wouldn't have said that was needed, and when the car was new it probably wasn't. It seems to have been what the car needed. So, thanks for all the advice on this one. Hoping my next issues will be much simpler!

[Charlie B in N.J.]

Even with the engine metal to metal mounted 80 or 90 years can create some weird doings. A necessary separate engine to frame wire isn’t uncommon. Even today.

[Moxie26]

Progress indeed!.. enjoy!!

[TXGOAT2]

An auxilliary engine ground ought to be battery cable gauge. Otherwise, your light gauge ground wire may catch fire when you use the starter if the normal engine ground points are not good. Other possibilites are a metallic temperature gauge connection burning up, fuel line heating up, or throttle or spark linkages getting very hot. An auxilliary engine to frame ground is a good idea for any car that lacks one. A quality, battery cable gauge connection between the engine and frame assures full current to the starter and protects other metallic connections between the engine and the car body or frame from being subjected to high current loads. Ignition and generator performance can benefit, also. An auxilliary ground cable from the engine/transmission attached at the same point on the frame as the stock ground cable is a good idea. All connections should be clean and tight.

[CatGuy]

An auxilliary engine ground ought to be battery cable gauge. Otherwise, your light gauge ground wire may catch fire when you use the starter if the normal engine ground points are not good. Other possibilites are a metallic temperature gauge connection burning up, fuel line heating up, or throttle or spark linkages getting very hot. An auxilliary engine to frame ground is a good idea for any car that lacks one. A quality, battery cable gauge connection between the engine and frame assures full current to the starter and protects other metallic connections between the engine and the car body or frame from being subjected to high current loads. Ignition and generator performance can benefit, also. An auxilliary ground cable from the engine/transmission attached at the same point on the frame as the stock ground cable is a good idea. All connections should be clean and tight.

Good points. I may have to change that.

[Moxie26]

Years ago I made up a 2/0 gauge battery cable, soldered copper terminals on each end , attached to battery ground bolt on the frame and the other end was attached under a top screw of the starter. Just be sure that where your electrical connections are attached you have shiny metal to metal contact and no paint to insulate your connection.

[JTT3]

Congrats, so you bought an alternator instead of a generator correct? If not, in my honest opinion the amps as shown on the amp meter is still a little high, you’re at 8-9 amps at speed. Typically, I’ve been told and have done so myself, you should be at 5 amps as not to reduce the life of your battery. I may be totally full of hot air. I’m happy for you though, thought you were going to leave the community, glad you’re not.

[CatGuy]

Congrats, so you bought an alternator instead of a generator correct? If not, in my honest opinion the amps as shown on the amp meter is still a little high, you’re at 8-9 amps at speed. Typically, I’ve been told and have done so myself, you should be at 5 amps as not to reduce the life of your battery. I may be totally full of hot air. I’m happy for you though, thought you were going to leave the community, glad you’re not.

Thanks! I was just waiting till I had some good news. These cars really get to a person! I don't know how many times I've thought about getting rid of it and getting something a little newer, but I keep coming back to....'I have a Model T'! They're really fascinating and fun.
Yes, it looks high to me, too. The car hadn't been run in a month and it took a bit to start it up so I'm wondering if it was making up for a low battery? This was sitting in the garage for....maybe 5 minutes. What can be done about this?

[TWrenn]

All I can at least tell you is when I stsrt my Fordor which also has an alternator and new battery, it charges for barely a minute at 6-8 amps and quickly falls off to 1-2 amps and stays there all day. Even with lights, signals, etc. That's why I love my alternator. Power when you need it!

[JTT3]

If it’s an alternator I get the amp rate if you had a low battery and the alternator is working to fully charge it.
As Tim said it should drop significantly once you meet the charge no charge threshold. Again congrats I’m really glad the catguy has 8 lives left. Best John

[TRDxB2]

Where did you get the "new" alternator, supplier & brand? There was a question about engine RPM speed for the previous alternator to generate power.

[CatGuy]

Where did you get the "new" alternator, supplier & brand? There was a question about engine RPM speed for the previous alternator to generate power.

This one came from Snyder's. I believe it's a GM Delco.