Ruckstell Shift Lock and Internals Questions

[ShirkWood]

A couple of Ruckstell Questions...

1. Can you use the 1926-1927 Ruckstell Shift Lock Assembly on an earlier "small drum" Ruckstell? I thought I had heard that the later style Shift Lock Assembly (P-158A) for a 1926-27 could be used on an earlier rear axle (1913-25) AND that it helped keep it from jumping out of gear. I have a Ruckstell with an original bronze Shifter Body. The axle jumped out of gear a couple of times on me and, needless to say, I was less than impressed!!!

2. On another note...Are the "internals" of a Ruckstell interchangeable from 1913-27...otherwise everything but the Shift Lock Assembly?

Verne Shirk
Wichita, Kansas

[speedytinc]

All interchangeable.
Rux's became a product in the early 20's. The shift lock isnt supposed to "hold" the sleeve in lock. More like providing a guide for either engagement. Your internals may have excessive wear. I would specifically look @ the tooth wear on the lock collar. That has been the main issue in other rux's with you symptom. Your early shift lock has wear issues &/or the plunger spring is weak.
Were it mine, I would pull it completely apart for a rebuild. Fix it rite once & it will out last you.
I do prefer the late shift lock because its design makes for a positive lock in direct or rux & no neutral possible under normal wear conditions.
There is a difference in shift lock mounting bolt lengths. Depending on early, mid or late shifters.

[JTT3]

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[A Whiteman]

I had heard that the later style Shift Lock Assembly (P-158A) for a 1926-27 could be used on an earlier rear axle (1913-25) AND that it helped keep it from jumping out of gear.

I believe so.

And yes, the later shift lock has a much more positive action and stronger holding springs. The Shift Lock holds the internal sliding gear in place - in standard or Ruckstell position.

If the lock does not hold the sliding gear (P146) firmly, it can shift over and the result CAN BE a neutral - which is disastrous as your brakes are on the transmission. There is a reason the lock was re-engineered to be beefier and with a more positive throw, adding stronger 'hold springs'.

A point of wear on the 'new' style is the tip of the lever (part P122A) can cause the lock not to hold as well. This can be built up with hardened rods and reground.

See Martynn's superb drawings on the Gallery section - they show assembly order and position:

https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/image/1986

https://mtfca.com/phpBB3/app.php/gallery/album/249

And buy the MFTFA rear axle book, it is full of easy to understand directions to over haul the Ruckstell.

https://mtfca.square.site/product/servi ... egory_id=3

[CudaMan]

Here is a link to Stan Howe's old Ruckstell website:

https://web.archive.org/web/20131015181 ... hotos.html



And, here is a link to Stan Howe's old Stromberg OF website:

https://web.archive.org/web/20210123165 ... ergof.com/

[ShirkWood]

Thanks for all of the responses!!!
Verne Shirk

[JTT3]

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