Block Question

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johnr
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2022 2:09 pm
First Name: John
Last Name: Delamater
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1927 Depot Hack
Location: Huron, Ohio

Block Question

Post by johnr » Tue Nov 15, 2022 5:56 pm

Getting ready to set up a block to Babbit and bore and ran into a problem.
I placed my boring bar frame on the block pan rails and noticed a rocking of the boring
bar frame.
Took a feeler gauge and checked the clearance to be about .030 with cam side clamped down with
the frame resting on the opposite side of the block at the front.
The .030 gap was measured at the opposite side flywheel end.
I checked my homemade boring bar frame on a surface plate and came up with .002 to .0015 rock.
I looked at the block pan surface and can see variation in the surface from milling at the flywheel
end.
Henry apparently did not make any scrap.
I have the capability of cleaning up this surface on the mill.
Should I clean up this surface or go ahead and place the boring bar frame on the block and shim up the frame
accordingly and proceed ?

Thank you

Johnr


Kerry
Posts: 1447
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2019 2:42 pm
First Name: Frank
Last Name: van Ekeren
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1916 touring, 1916 pick-up, 1924 coupe, 1926 touring, 1927 touring
Location: Rosedale Vic Australia

Re: Block Question

Post by Kerry » Tue Nov 15, 2022 6:04 pm

I had come across a block once that had been, machined/ground, on the pan surface, the problem it presented in assembly was that the ball cap no longer was in alignment, had to use 2 pan gaskets.


speedytinc
Posts: 4725
Joined: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:24 pm
First Name: john
Last Name: karvaly
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 14/15 wide track roadster. 23 touring, 27 roadster pickup, 20ish rajo touring
Location: orange, ca
Board Member Since: 2020

Re: Block Question

Post by speedytinc » Tue Nov 15, 2022 6:27 pm

If you machine the base, your crank will end up too close to your cam for that critical gear mesh dimension. And you have created a hybrid bastard with more problems to come.
A good boring bar fixture picks up the cam bore front & back to ensure this critical dimension.
If you can clean the block base, maintain the cam/crank location & make a correct thickness gasket shim, it could work.
If its not a scarce(early) block, I would lean toward replacing it.

User avatar

Mark Gregush
Posts: 5370
Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2019 1:57 pm
First Name: Mark
Last Name: Gregush
* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1925 cutdown PU, 1948 F2 Ford flat head 6 pickup 3 speed
Location: Portland Or
Board Member Since: 1999

Re: Block Question

Post by Mark Gregush » Tue Nov 15, 2022 6:29 pm

Any amount taken off the pan rail, you might have to compensate for when setting up the boaring bar in order to keep the center to center for the cam to crankshaft by adding shims to bring it back up.
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas! :shock:

1925 Cut down pickup
1948 Ford F2 pickup


Jerry VanOoteghem
Posts: 4082
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 4:06 pm
First Name: Jerry
Last Name: Van
Location: S.E. Michigan

Re: Block Question

Post by Jerry VanOoteghem » Tue Nov 15, 2022 7:29 pm

I'm wondering if there wasn't some localized damage somewhere on the pan rail that's causing the rock, rather than a gradually "twisted" surface. Have you run a file across the pan rail, trying to highlight any raised areas?


Jack Putnam, in Ohio
Posts: 457
Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:19 pm
First Name: Jack
Last Name: Putnam
Location: Bluffton, Ohio

Re: Block Question

Post by Jack Putnam, in Ohio » Tue Nov 15, 2022 8:27 pm

Do you know the history of the block?
Was it involved in a fire? That will cause a twist. Just a possible answer to your problem.

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