Water Hose Clamps

[BLB27]

The photos show my old hose clamps and the new ones. Which ones should I use?

[5 WoodenWheels]

Use the new ones.

[Steve Jelf]

Aren't the wire ones Mopar? Anyway, I use the other type that are closer to Ford originals. But I replace the round head screws with fillister heads.

[Allan]

I would use the new ones after running the car for a month or two with modern eorm drive clamps. These will bed the hose in on the castings, and the original style ones will hold that setting.

If you use the original ones initially there is a chance they will not seal and the problem is exacerbated by adding tension. This will distort the ears on the clamps and possibly pinch the hose up between the ends of the clamp , making a leak more pronounced.

Allan from down under.

[jiminbartow]

Seems like after experience gained from the manufacture of 15,000,000 Model T’s over 18 plus years, Ford would not have used something that did not work. I would say use the original ones and keep an eye on it. If they leak, then use the new ones. If they hold, keep the original ones on. How many can say they have original Ford clamps from the factory? Very special. You can bolster the seal with a layer of “the Right Stuff, or “Ultra Black” RTV gasket seal on the inside of the hose. The original clamps look good and strong. If they had ever leaked in the past 94 years, they would be rusted and pitted. Those modern ones look exactly like what they are. Bright, new, and not original. Jim Patrick

[Rich P. Bingham]

That's exactly so Allan. The repro clamps are much lighter gauge metal than the old ones. One thing about the round head screws - your screwdriver will probably strip the slot before they get tight enough to deform the clamp !

Steve is right, the old ones always had filister head screws !

[Steve Jelf]

I would say use the original ones...

The wire clamps are not original Ford parts.

These are the clamps on the 1917 Rip Van Winkle car. It looks like the screws may be new.

[Original Smith]

Neither are correct. The new ones you have are sort of correct, but don't have the proper slot in part of them. I went through this several years ago, and the correct ones I found were for Model A's in Snyders Model A section for four times the price. As I've said many times on this forum, do your homework!

[Rich Eagle]

This is what the service manual (Bible) shows. It's good enough for me.
Rich

[Rich P. Bingham]

Rich, yup ! That's the critter ! I think Larry means the reproduction clamps are not correct and he is right. Besides being too light for service, the split and the "tail" are wrong and of course, no filister screw.

A few years back I found some clamps of the old type, right groove, right screws, heavily zinc plated ! I thought I'd cut a fat hog, but come to find out, they were slightly smaller in diameter and would not work.

[Shannon_in_Texas]

Larry, are these the ones that you were referring to? Bratton's is my preferred vendor for Model A parts.

https://www.brattons.com/SHOW-QUALITY-H ... nfo/12090/

[Original Smith]

I don't know if Snyders has corrected his mis-information yet, but awhile back he was selling those clamps pictured above that stated Just like Henry made them! Well, of course that was a lie. He offered the correct ones in the Model A section at four times the price!

[DanTreace]

The main difference of the repro hose clamps and the Ford T clamp is in the 'finger' slide that compresses the clamp on the hose.

The Ford design is heavier gauge metal and has robust and wide finger, and its fold over is contained on a larger part of the full clamp body. Provide best grip and compression. The repro clamp has weak narrow finger and fold over is minimal.

[Allan]

The things you learn! I have never seen that centre piece turned up to "lock" the clamps. Doing so may reduce the te-use of the clamps though

Allan from down under.