Steering Gear Case Removal

[SurveyKing]

It was a real struggle to get the steering gear case out of the steering column, now I need to know the best way to get the control shafts out of the gear case. The photos show the four areas that are bent over the shafts to hold them in place. They appear so delicate that if I try to pry them, they will break off. Can someone who has done this before give me their thoughts on the best way to do this?

[Scott_Conger]

You are very fortunate to find your gear case in such good shape. The brass ears will break off in a New York second if you are not careful.

Anneal, cool thoroughly, bend slightly, repeat (many times)

If you bend while hot: a tab will break off
If you bend too much between heatings: a tab will break off

I work each tab individually and pry gently with a pocket knife. It is easy to overdo it and I cannot stress enough the fact that you must anneal and cool frequently

If you break a tab, some folks will say it's not a big deal, but the affected rod is really never exactly the same regarding stability, and there is a loss of built-in rigidity that is now taken up by the rivets, which will wear sooner (though maybe not in your lifetime).

BTW, if a tab breaks off, it can be replaced. If you reach that point, feel free to PM me. I will not go over the process here.

[D Stroud]

Scott is no doubt correct on this as he is way more knowledgeable than me, but I have replaced two of the cases that had the tabs almost non existent when I took them apart. I just reinstalled the cases as they were with no support for the rods and they worked just fine. I would be willing to bet no one could tell the difference if I didn't tell them first. YMMV JMHO Dave

[SurveyKing]

Thanks Scott and David, I presume that the reverse would be in order upon re-instillation, anneal again and tap the arms back down?

[Mark Nunn]

Scott, can the case fingers be annealed using MAP gas or propane torch? I don't have an acetylene torch set. I'm getting ready to install a gear case that I got from Dave and I want to do this right the first time.

[Scott_Conger]

I use MAPP gas and find it works just fine. More heat, sooner, and the entire assembly doesn't get as hot as with propane, as you're on the work a lot less time.

[John Codman]

I have found the same thing as D. Stroud.

[Original Smith]

This is a very interesting topic. I was able to do mine a long time ago very carefully. I honestly don't remember what I did any more, but I must have used heat as mentioned above. After I got the rods removed I had it nickel plated by a very reputable plating company. It never gets dull. I just wipe it down with a soft cotton rag. Another thing that is very important to me is the rivets. I used new rivets and shaped the heads to match the originals. It's easier if two people do the job.

[SurveyKing]

I got the case apart through the annealing process, now I need a recommendation for a nickel plate company. The levers have some pitting, can this be resolved through the plating process?

[Norman Kling]

Why don't you take out the pins and remove the throttle and spark levers from below and then pull the control rods right out the top? Then you don't need to bend anything.
Norm

[rickd]

Norman, if I understand your question correctly, its because the bend in the gas and timing levers below the steering gear case wont clear the shape of the bottom of the steering gear case; so they have to be taken out as Scott has outlined.

[Norman Kling]

You're right. I was wrong! It's been about 20 years since I removed the control rods from a steering box. I don't remember having any trouble doing so and don't remember heating it either.
Norm