Swivel top carburetor question.

[Nate22huckster]

Does this look right? I’m used to working on non-swivel Holley NH carburetors. I pieced together the choke/mixture parts and the u-joint seems to be at too sharp of an angle and binds pretty bad. Also, the nut on the top of the carb doesn’t snug down on the mixture needle like on an earlier carb. Are you supposed to crimp the sides of the needle down so it squeezes the brass nut? I bought a new fuel line too, how is it supposed to be routed? Is it a straight shot from the sediment bowl elbow to the carb inlet elbow? Or does it go straight down and turn 90 to go horizontal to the carb? Thanks.

[speedytinc]

Yes, friction from the 2 side tabs on the needle must be snug enough to make a friction to not allow the mixture needle to change positions from vibration.
Your mixture rod goes thru the dash. Judging by a late manifold carb heater in hand, the angle looks correct. I notice one u-joint tab is bent in @ a wrong angle. both tabs should be straight up. New pot metal u-joints require some fitting. Out of the box they are too tight in the linkage holes.
An old one with a lot of wear can bind also.

The running of the fuel line(also showing adjustment linkage) was recently posted here. Do a bit of searching.
I believe the fuel line exits the tank fitting straight down & turns 90 in a sweeping turn to line up into the carb horizontally.
The afore mentioned post shows it well.

[Scott_Conger]

Pay very close attention to what John said about your fuel line routing...as it is, it is designed to capture an air bubble and all but certainly block most fuel flow to a great extent

impossible to tell why it is, but to me, the angle is far too acute of an angle (maybe ok?)...here is what it should look like from the side:

IMG_3504 (573x580).jpg (68.47 KiB) Viewed 1487 times

as far as fuel lines...this is what it should look like:

[RajoRacer]

I'd replace the copper line with steel.

[Chuck Regan]

Nate - here is a picture of my ‘26. As mentioned already, I had to straighten the u-joint ears in the adjusting linkage as well as grind a little off the ears to ensure smooth operation.

[Nate22huckster]

Thank you all that is very helpful. I intend on replacing the fuel line and I already bought a new one from one of the vendors. Chuck that last picture you posted that is a straight on side shot is very helpful. It appears that my choke rod is going about the same angle as yours. I’ll have to mess with bending the tabs on the u joint for smoother operation and also crimp the ears down to the brass top so it doesn’t change adjustment while driving.

This car is very much a project but I’m hoping to get a few rides in it this summer before tearing it down to do the complete restoration. The original engine has been pulled out and my spare put in its place and currently the rear axle is out and I just completely rebuilt it and got it in primer.

[Scott_Conger]

One of the things undoubtedly giving you fits that you didn't even know you were having is that brass fitting on top of your carb. I am very happy that parts can be purchased, but that 6208-B is a constant source of annoyance to me.

If you look at yours, and then the same part on other pictures, you'll see that yours is only 1/2 of the way screwed in (even though it is tight)...its a NPT fitting and the threads are too large in diameter. This causes it to not thread in as far as it should, and now your adjuster needle friction tabs must grind over and past the hex portion in order for the needle to properly engage the jet and control fuel flow. This makes the universal work even harder and perhaps not at all.

Several careful applications of a die to that part to reduce the diameter of the threads (running the die up farther) will result in a part which will tighten down JUST prior to the hex part hitting the top of the carb. Additionally, you may find the friction tabs to be a bit long and have to shorten them by a very little bit (they should never be so long as to go over the hex).

Just some hints from someone who has been in your shoes.

[Nate22huckster]

Wow that’s some good advice Scott. I hadn’t even thought of that. I haven’t tried starting it since installing the new brass nut and swivel needle. Looks like I’ve got some fitting to do.
By the way Scott, I’m excited to try one of your full flow float valves I bought, going to put it in my ‘22

[Original Smith]

Look at the factory photo closely, and note the choke wire is offset at the bottom.