Stuck/rusted hood hinges

[fschrope]

The Subject line says it all.
I have several low and high hoods that have the hinges rusted enough that they bend the tabs.
Any solutions?
I know - penetrating oils of some sort, but these are past that.
I've thought, but not tried, putting a wooden block on the back and hitting the top with a mallet or such. I haven't tried much yet.
Ideas??? Fire away, I'm all ears.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Fred,
I have a unknown hood with the same issue. I have sprayed it with every penitrating oil I could think of. I have hade no luck at all. My next move
is put it in a cement tub & soak it in acid, its too hot to soak this time of year to much evaporation.
Craig.

[TXGOAT2]

Something like strong vinegar or CLR or even BlecheWhite can soften and dissolve rust, but you'd have to daub it on the hinges and keep it moist for half an hour or so, somehow, perhaps with strips of cloth and a spray bottle. Products of this type will not function unless they are kept damp or wet.

Tapping lightly on the hinge rod ends with a light hammer can be helpful.
Patience will get results.

Using force will most probably destroy the parts.

I would not use heat on sheet metal.

Each hood has 3 hinges. I'd work on one hinge at a time. Patience, moisture, and mild acids will get results.

[TRDxB2]

The Subject line says it all.
I have several low and high hoods that have the hinges rusted enough that they bend the tabs.
Any solutions?
I know - penetrating oils of some sort, but these are past that.
I've thought, but not tried, putting a wooden block on the back and hitting the top with a mallet or such. I haven't tried much yet.
Ideas??? Fire away, I'm all ears.

You might try an electrolysis tank, its easy to make and its known to also get the rust out of internal surfaces. One hinge at a time. I had a door latch that was rusted internally and no amount of WD40 etc got it loose - the tank did can't find the pictures
Here are some instructions https://www.secondchancegarage.com/publ ... emoval.cfm
I made one using some rebar as the sacrificial anode, You only need about 1/3 cup washing soda for each 5 gallons of water or 1 rounded tablespoon of soda per gallon. Too much is not a good thing - can burn at the charger , which needs to be a manual one not one that auto shuts off when the battery is charged - a dumb trickle charge will also work

[Susanne]

I second the electro tank - that has worked miracles where others won't work... Once you get it apart, you'll need to paint the hood panels again it as it will leave the steel bare as a baby's bottom, but it will kill the rust. There are normally other considerations when using electrolysis (such as hydrogen embrittlement - bake in a hot oven 400 degrees F for an hour, trust me, your wife won't mind, especially if she never finds out ) and it is caustic (caution for aluminum hoods!!), but it will whack the steel to steel rust. Scrub off he black crud, for the bare rods, follow those up with an application (first) of Kroil, and then a good quality oil.

[DanTreace]

Simple, safe, and effective for your rust on those hood rods.

Molasses and water

Just get a 1 gal. of molasses and a shallow plastic tray, long enough for the hood length. Soak in a 1 gal : 2 or 3 gal. solution of water and in a few days the rod will be free of rust. Have used this method for rusty hood panel with stuck rod, after apart, sanded the rod and coated it with Slip-Plate, the graphite paint, hood raises easy and no sticky ever again!

[TRDxB2]

Simple, safe, and effective for your rust on those hood rods.

Molasses and water

Just get a 1 gal. of molasses and a shallow plastic tray, long enough for the hood length. Soak in a 1 gal : 2 or 3 gal. solution of water and in a few days the rod will be free of rust. Have used this method for rusty hood panel with stuck rod, after apart, sanded the rod and coated it with Slip-Plate, the graphite paint, hood raises easy and no sticky ever again!

Thought about Molasses to but never had the ratio of molasses to water. Also GREAT IDEA of slip-paint on the rods !!!!!!!!!!

[fschrope]

Thanks for all the ideas.

I had thought of the molasses method but wonder how long it will take for the molasses to get inside the hinge.

I've used the molasses thing in the past and it works wonders - in the summer time when it's warm.

I'm going to try sawing a blue 55 gallon barrel in half lengthwise - except to the lid - and setting it on its side. I should be able to get the hinge submerged in there. It will be a one hinge at a time, but I'm in no hurry.
Heck, I'm only 80, so I have a lifetime to play with this.

I'll keep you posted. I may not start for a while though.....

[MichaelPawelek]

Once you get the rods out you can buy solid stainless steel rods from the vendors. They sure make it easy for future disassembly.

[Allan]

I ran a test to find the optimum Molasses to water ratio, using glass jars and rusted rod. The best results were using molasses at 40% of the volume of the mix. Less molasses was slower, more made little difference. I can't guarantee that all molasses is of similar make-up. Feed grade stuff, conveniently packaged and nicely labeled, is likely to be mixed/diluted for consistency. Mine was as it came from the sugar mill. It is the one process in my workshop that my wife's heightened sense of smell is not offended by!

Allan from down under.

[Allan]

Re disposal of the molasses mix, being a plant based organic product it can simply be poured on the ground and allowed to disperse, with no detrimental effect.
Allan from down under.

[DanTreace]

Allan

The mix ratio can vary, first tried 2:1 water to molasses, 1:1 seemed too thick. So yes, mix and temp are considerations.

But net effect, sure is great at rust removal, safe for operator and the environment. Got the first idea to use from a visit to a hot rodder friend, who rebuilds for others too. His tank is huge plastic, and with chain falls over, can lower in large parts at a time.

And works on fine delicate items too

[Allan]

Dan, it works very well on steel. If you put cast iron pieces in, be careful to keep checking. If you forget, it will eat the carbon out of cast and can ruin parts as a result. I once found an NH carby body in the bottom of my tank. It had fallen into the tub along with its wire hook, and was considerably lighter by the time I discovered it.

Allan from down under.

[TRDxB2]

Re disposal of the molasses mix, being a plant based organic product it can simply be poured on the ground and allowed to disperse, with no detrimental effect.
Allan from down under.

Slight disagreement. While a solution prior to its use may be environmental friendly, but once used to clean rust, grease, paint etc from any item, is sure to contain the contaminants removed that are not environment friendly.

As an example
When you wash your car in the driveway, the soap together with the dirt, grime, grease, and oil washes from your car MAY flow into nearby storm drains. Even if it dries on the driveway the next heavy rain will wash it into the storm drains. These can run directly into lakes, rivers, or streams. Some soaps may also contain phosphates, which can cause excess algae to grow in local waterways.

[fschrope]

What you say is true of course, but you have to realize that the molasses won't harm paint and if the item is oily or greasy, it won't cut through that coating to get to the rust.

Having said that, the stuff can get pretty nasty after it's used for a while.

[Allan]

Fred, you reminded me of something I overlooked. A molasses bath will not work on painted parts nor greasy parts. It does a wizard job on dry rust.
Frank, they feed molasses to stock. The stock drink water. Iron compounds are added to mineral mixes for plant fertilisers. It would be hard to find a less benign mix.
Allan from down under.

[TRDxB2]

Fred, you reminded me of something I overlooked. A molasses bath will not work on painted parts nor greasy parts. It does a wizard job on dry rust.
Frank, they feed molasses to stock. The stock drink water. Iron compounds are added to mineral mixes for plant fertilisers. It would be hard to find a less benign mix.
Allan from down under.

I am aware that molasses is a good fertilizer and insect control as well. The iron residue would be great to sweeten the soil on my lawn & kill the moss growing in the shady areas. Its just that people need to be aware of what may be in the residue mix before they choose where to dispose of it. I let mine evaporate and take the residue with other hazardous waste to the local recycling center. (free service).

[Allan]

That's the safest way Frank. I am spoilt, living on a town acre with a big native plant garden, and no lawn, so I have room to use it to best effect.
Allan from down under.