WOSP Starter Wiring

[DaveBarker]

Well, I'm considering putting a starter on my 1919 Speedster. I would put an original 6v on, but the steering column rake has been lowered and a 6v will not fit. The car is currently 6v, and I'd like to keep it that way. Question: Can I install a WOSP 12v starter (which would fit under the column) along with it's own battery, switch, and circuit? I'm thinking I can, but would that cause any electrical problems with my current 6v system if also grounded to the frame?

[Les Schubert]

I guess I’m surprised that the steering column isn’t interfering with the transmission pedals if you have it that low. Also why keep the 6 volt. The stock T generator will easily charge a 12 volt battery (just cut the amps back)
Just some thoughts.

[Mark Gregush]

https://www.ccw-tools.com/WOSP-LMS256-- ... 34517.aspx

[Craig Leach]

Wow Dave,
You got your colomn low. Would love to see how you did that. I run 2 batteries because my speedster Carb. & manifold will not let me run a
generator, total loss I can only run 2 days without recharging them. A 12 volt battery will require its own charging system to go more than 1 day
of starting unless a Optima marine or deep cycle battery is used. ( this would be from my experiance ) 2 6 volt batteries and a series parrallel
switch will alleviate the charging issue but would border on being be costly as the more expensive battery. Putting in a second battery can be as
easy as installing a T battery box backwards in the frame next to the original one. As long as you have access to remove & install it.
Les Yes it ( the column ) can interfere with the pedals. I had to modify my pedals after I burned up low band because I was pushing hard on the
column and not on low pedal on a long hill.
Craig.

[DaveBarker]

Thanks for the responses guys. Craig is correct; the original column bracket does interfere with the reverse pedal. My grandfather inverted the column to get the rake he wanted, also flipping the column bracket that attaches to the firewall. He fabricated an angle-iron bracket to secure the column that attaches to the firewall and the 2x6 side rails that mount to the top of the frame. For the lower column to frame bracket, he fitted metal wedge spacers to get the angle correct. He also cut the end of the reverse pedal off so that just the stem remained, which enable it to clear the bracket (see photos below). As far as converting the car to 12 volt; I could but didn't want to mess with something that works fine as is. I thought I'd simply add the 12v battery, switch, and starter as a separate circuit, if I can. The plan would be to use the starter on cold starts, then use the crank when it's warm through the rest of the day on a tour. Also, it's not that it won't start with the crank as it has since 1927. Just that I'm getting a little older and looking to the future, and figured I'd pull the trigger sooner rather than later.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Dave,
I just realized I fell into the trap that is my pet peeve by not answering your question. I would hypothesise that as long as your 12volt starter
wiring didn't intresect with the 6volt system and your grounds are good there would be no issue. The Wosp starter will work great with smaller
cables than a 6volt will so you could run cables for hot & ground dirrectly to the Wosp starter and take the switch wiring off of there. This
assumes you will run a total loss system for the starter. If you add a 12volt charging system the same should apply. The issue would be if one
system had a connection problem as in a ground failure then it will try to seek ground with the other system. A little more info on what you are
running on 6volt would help.
Craig.

[Oldav8tor]

I would just convert everything to 12 volts. That said, if you keep the wiring for the starter separate from everything else there should be no interaction. The WOSP has a built-in solenoid so you can run a cable from the battery direct to the post on the starter and run a jumper from said post thru a simple push button then back to the spade connector on the starter. Alternatively, you can use a foot switch to provide power to the starter post, installing a jumper from the battery post to the spade connector for the solenoid.

As others have said, be sure you have a good ground. In my case I chose to run a ground wire (same awg as positive wire) direct from the battery to a mounting bolt on the starter.

[DaveBarker]

Tim & Craig - Thanks for the responses and for the additional information; all helpful.

The current system is the original 6v negative ground system with a Texas T distributor and coil, LED tail and headlights, and electric horn. I also have an original generator with a Fun Projects voltage regulator (6v), and a Fun Projects ammeter. I have also installed the FP in-line fuse in the main power feed to prevent any electrical mishaps. I plan to install a completely separate 12v system for the starter - just the starter/solenoid, battery, cables, and a foot switch (keeping it simple). Just wanted to be sure that I can connect both battery cables to the starter/solenoid and don't need to ground the 12v battery to the frame, but if I do need to ground it to the frame, that it would not cause any problems with the current 6v negative ground system.

Thanks again folks.

[Chris Bamford]

You can run dual 12-volt and 6-volt systems in a car, using a common (chassis) ground. I do this on my 1912 Othermake. Factory six volts for ignition and lighting, aftermarket 12 volts for starter and brake light. Both batteries are constant loss, with only occasional recharging required.

When one thinks about it, there is also a third voltage system in the car, a multi-thousand volt ignition circuit that also uses the common ground.

[DaveBarker]

Thanks Chris. That's helpful to know as well.