Original material to back interior cloth?

[varmint]

What material was originally used to back interior cloth in a closed car?
I've read about people using all kinds of things from aluminum, modern panel board, to plastic.
The package tray was cloth on steel or wood board. But what about the sides?

[VowellArt]

The ones I've seen looked to be some sort of heavy cardboard. Although a modern plasticized cardboard, might work better especially against moisture, because the ones I've seen (with the cardboard) were rather warped, probably due to either outright water damage or moisture trapped with in the door skin. Either way, something that withstand moisture would be a solid improvement over anything originally used.

[Mark Gregush]

For the headliner, nothing was used for backing. Just the fabric tacked to the bows.

[varmint]

Thanks. I have the headliner on.
I thought about 3/16" plywood and warping the corners, then paint.


What do you use to adhere the cloth to the panels?
Sew through holes, headliner spray glue?

[John kuehn]

In my 24 Coupe the backing behind the interior cloth was a black colored cardboard. It was used around the Coupe sides around the windows. It was just a little less than 1/8 “ thick. When I got the interior kit panels the cloth was just lightly glued to the cardboard panels that came with the kit.

[jiminbartow]

In 1972, I installed a “Carter’s Cut and Cover” upholstery kit in my 1926 coupe. The upholstery fabric came installed and the serrated nail type fasteners came installed in the panels measured and ready to install in the car. Very nice, well made, easy to install, well fitting kit. Unfortunately, they went out of business when the old man died.

Door and interior panels used heavy, solid (not corrugated), bendable cardboard about 3/32” to 1/8” thick. Since you asked, I assume you are planning to do it from scratch instead of buying a kit. Fasteners need to be carefully measured and installed in the panels before the upholstery is attached. Upholstery material is cut about 2” than the panel so that it can be stretched over the cardboard panel and the 1” extra flap pulled over the edge of the panel and secured from the back of the panel using DAP Weldwood brush applied, (flammable type) contact cement. NEVER apply glue to the front, or risk it soaking through and ruining the fabric. Keep your hands very clean and free of glue so as not to accidentally get it on a piece of upholstery you are handling. Keep a bit of mineral spirits handy to clean off any errant glue. Headliner is installed first and uses no backing. It was just stretched tightly across the ceiling. Ideally, the headliner should be installed before the roof, but there are acceptable ways to install it after the roof has been installed. My roof was installed before I upholstered my interior so, after securing one side with a staple gun as close to the edge as possible, I pulled the headliner tight, uniformly, all around, working across from eachother, not around, so it would not bunch up when the end was reached. Secure the edges of the headliner to the wooden roof slats with 1/4” staples from a Bostitch staple gun as close to the edges as possible, keeping the long portion of the staple inline with the edge of the roof so they can be covered by the panel that is installed after. The staples are then covered by the interior panels that are installed after the headliner and butt up to the headliner concealing the staples. Do not try and glue the headliner to the roof slats. Headliner is secured only from the edges and pulled taute. Jim Patrick

[varmint]

Yes, doing it ourselves!
We bought grey "duck" cloth, sewed in green lines, upholstered the seat back & lower. Used the same grey for the top, sewing in folds and stapled to the cross members, then stretched to the outside edge. Used same staples to attach to the corner. Patch panels will cover the corner staples.

(I had already tacked some vinyl around the outside edge of the top wood, tucked it under, tacked it. Then ran a bead of black sealant on the sill and bolted it down. My mistake.)

I have more of the same grey duck cloth for panels. The body is missing most of the inserts which the panels attach to. I have seen all kinds of snaps and nails from the vendors and don't know what to use. (Late 26 Coupe) some of the panels must attach to wood while other parts to metal.

[John kuehn]

I’ve always believed whoever built the bodies for Ford that body builder used what he had or got from a supplier. They were built to look pretty much alike but it’s the details that weren’t all the same. My opinion of course. The interior body panels were tacked in but not always in the same pattern as an example.

[jab35]

Vern: Modern replacements use the plastic sockets and plastic 'nails' sold by Snyders and Langs. I read an article mentioning using those old mostly obsolete blue rib shanked drywall nails with the original metal sockets. My trial of the drywall nails in old but intact metal sockets was a very loose fit. YMMV. I applaud all the work you are doing to bring that coupe back to life, and for sharing the progress with us. Respectfully, jb

[jiminbartow]

Here is a good MTFCA from 2013 showing upholstery details on a 1926 Fordor sedan. It also shows the serrated push type nails and grommets that secure the interior upholstery panels to the walls. www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/34 ... 1363463351. Jim Patrick

[BuddyTheRoadster]

The side panel backing material would have been a sort of pasteboard---think posterboard instead of corrugated cardboard. Often door panels were slightly padded with cotton batting between the upholstery and the backing material. The upper side panels usually weren't padded. Automotive upholstery supply shops still sell backer board that would be slightly thick but serviceable.

[varmint]

Thanks!
For info about the panel board, nails, the old post, padding on the door panels and all.
I found a local auto upholsterer and ordered some board yesterday. The people were nice to work with.

Ordered top material from the vendors which was short but they are making it right.
It won't be long til we have a hot day in New Orleans to stretch the stuff.

This is more of a resurrection than a restoration. So, the paint and body work is ruff. But here's what was mentioned:
marine vinyl around the top perimeter, headliner, "denim", waiting on the long grain.

[Paperman]

This was printed on the original panels of my 27.