Varnish Transfer Decals

[Tbird]

Working on the Ford decals that adorn the sides of my Delivery Car. Wanted to recreate the style and feel of a transfer decal. Most stuff I found online are vinyl stickers. Anyone have any leads or knowledge of doing a decal the right way?
Thanks!

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Try here...

https://www.Phonodecal.com

https://www.phonodecal.com/nonphonograp ... tique+Auto

He'll need some high resolution artwork. He does a great job.

This guy is also extremely good and does custom decals as well

https://www.ebay.com/itm/271418253182?h ... R4TgtrurYw

[Tbird]

Jerry that’s perfect! Just what I was looking for.
Thanks!

[tdump]

I have been restoring some old Briggs and Stratton engines this winter and the vinyl decals I have been using,are lousy! They don't stick to a painted metal surface very well around the edges. I can' only imagine how much they would peel on wood or thin sheet metal.

[Tbird]

I have been restoring some old Briggs and Stratton engines this winter and the vinyl decals I have been using,are lousy! They don't stick to a painted metal surface very well around the edges. I can' only imagine how much they would peel on wood or thin sheet metal.

Mack, I know what you mean. Most of the companies that I contacted I contacted because they said they did decals. The conversation was usually followed up with yeah its more of a vinyl sticker. (In my head I say "Oh you mean for a soccer mom van to show off your stick family....")

[jiminbartow]

When I was restoring a Reginaphone music box, the lid required a varnish transfer decal. I messed up two before using the third to make a stencil that I used to paint on the design. I found varnish transfer decals to be very difficult (at least, for me) and I would rather paint the design on using a stencil made from one of the decals using adhesive backed paper and a sharp razor knife. Good luck. Jim Patrick

[modeltspaz]

Mike,

I worked in the Model Shop at Mattel Toy Company for 14 years. I was one of the couple of guys who applied the water slide decals, among many other things, to the prototype toys we produced. I worked my way up to the reputation of being the "Oh, decal job? Give it to Mike" guy.

You're absolutely right, vinyl decals are garbage. We made our own water slide decals, but with some difficulty. The old style decals were made using the silk screening process. Each color has a separate screen. If you built model cars when you were a kid, it probably came with a decal sheet. That odd cross that was printed in the corner of the sheet was an alignment register. There was a cross on every screen in the exact same location. That's how all the different screens landed in the right spot. It's called a registration mark.

If you need a custom decal, look for a printing shop near you that has digital printing with the ability to also print white. If the surface that you are sliding your decal onto isn't white, the color of the decal won't look right. It may even disappear. The background of the decal must be white, or the decal must be printed on white decal paper. This is available on the net. If you buy pre-printed decals, they're ready to go.

I strongly advise you to follow the directions carefully on the decal website above posted by Jerry. The only change to those instructions I would make is that I would use #11 Miltex surgical scalpels instead of Xacto knives. They are absolutely outstanding. Those are what I used, and they worked perfectly. They are not very expensive but I have an obvious warning. They are SUPER SHARP! They will cut you bad if you get careless. Ask me how I know.

Microset solution works very well. But, be warned. Microset will soften the decal. If the decal becomes difficult to place, it will tear if you continue to move it around. When you have the decal in place, use makeup removal pads to CAREFULLY blot down the decal carefully. DO NOT WIPE THE DECAL! If the adhesive (dextrose) that is on the back of the decal washes away, you can apply a very thin layer of gold leaf sizing. It's available at most craft stores.

Clear lacquer spray or brush on works well. It seals down the decal and makes it nearly impossible to remove. Do not use Krylon clear. It will put a hazy coating over your decal.

If you were closer, I'd do it for you, but you're a long drive from So. Cal. Good luck, Mike.

Mike "Modeltspaz" Spaziano.

[TRDxB2]

Working on the Ford decals that adorn the sides of my Delivery Car. Wanted to recreate the style and feel of a transfer decal. Most stuff I found online are vinyl stickers. Anyone have any leads or knowledge of doing a decal the right way?
Thanks!

You might try to make your own decals. I am assuming Waterslide will work for you. You need to read details for the products. I did by some paper several years back when I had an inkjet printer. Now have color lazser
Anyway looks like the price is right https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... ecal+paper+

[Humblej]

You can make your own water slide decal if you have an inkjet printer. One limitation is the color white since home quality printers do not print white. You can get clear background decal sheet or white background decal sheet at some office supply stores.

[Tbird]

Here's the art work that I have for my decals. I made up 4 different variations. The Delivery car body will be Midnight blue with the french gray pin striping. Which one do you like?

[speedytinc]

Lower right.

[mortier]

Waterslide and varnish decals are different. The former is easier to apply, but does spoil in storage, so you should use it quickly. The varnish type seem to last forever. I bought some 90-year-old varnish decals which were in good shape. I'm a piano technician, and have applied many to key-covers (fallboards) over the years. Anyway, the varnish type is just like the name: you carefully apply (preferably old, thick) varnish to the decal image with a fine brush, then let it set for a few minutes until tacky (test: the varnish sticks to your nose, but doesn't come off). You then apply the decal to the surface with a roller or your fingernail and let it dry overnight. Finally, wet the tissue paper and slide it off. Your decal can then be sealed with a clear coat. This is how they did it 100 years ago on pianos.

[KWTownsend]

I think the top left looks most "original", but like the gold bling the top right.

John Regan probably has an "authentic" design
: ^ )

Keith

[Mark Gregush]

I like the top right.

[RVA23T]

The white in the bottom left has the best tone/feel to me. Others are too clean or modern white looking

[TRDxB2]

Here's the art work that I have for my decals. I made up 4 different variations. The Delivery car body will be Midnight blue with the french gray pin striping. Which one do you like?

Screen Shot 2024-01-31 at 1.47.14 PM.png

This link to Cimorelli's Digital Model T Library has several pamphlets about the delivery wagon https://www.cimorelli.com/mtdl/1912/default.htm

The first set of boxed brochures have smaller images than the others. Doubt if the Brochure covers were the logo

--
I have a picture of Craig Beek's Pie Wagon & close up of the decal. Light reflection & the individual computer's may cause shade differences. Having said that I am unsure if the inner ring is black or dark brown. Will have too ask - his & John R's differ slightly. Craig has some shoulder issues right now but he and I will be down at his museum in a week or two I I will take better pictures especially to determine if the FORD script is subdued or bright. I do know that he had a professional water slide decal maker make them.

[Tbird]

Frank,
Thanks for that information.

Here’s John Regan’s close up followed by Bill Brommer’s
Notice that Bill did a font that looks like the ones from the brochures. Also differences in the Ford Script. I had the hardest time finding a hi res Script for printing like the one John used so I basically had to trace it and redraw it

[TRDxB2]

Frank,
Thanks for that information.

Here’s John Regan’s close up followed by Bill Brommer’s
Notice that Bill did a font that looks like the ones from the brochures. Also differences in the Ford Script. I had the hardest time finding a hi res Script for printing like the one John used so I basically had to trace it and redraw it

IMG_1456.jpeg

IMG_1457.jpeg

I think you touched upon the issue of correctness, the Font. I also think he used Bill's as the pattern he gave to the the artist who may have indicated the the other fonts were used at that time & why his are diffrent, but could be wrong. I called Craig but he is in therapy for a shoulder rebuild. I'll get back to you later this afternoon after my hip therapy

[TRDxB2]

Frank,
Thanks for that information.

Here’s John Regan’s close up followed by Bill Brommer’s
Notice that Bill did a font that looks like the ones from the brochures. Also differences in the Ford Script. I had the hardest time finding a hi res Script for printing like the one John used so I basically had to trace it and redraw it

IMG_1456.jpeg

IMG_1457.jpeg

I think you touched upon the issue of correctness, the Font. Just got off the phone with Craig and he confirmed my memory. He started to use John's was said to be proprietary. Thre were more than one image. Craig the used Bill's and sent it off to a supplier that made decals for John Deere. The artist there said that the font on Bills (John's too) was a later period font so she used one that was in use at the time of the car manufacturer. Hence the difference.