Oil change

[vping]

One of the first things I did was an oil change. Drained, filled with 4 quarts of new oil and then opened the top drain tap. Was surprised that a full quart drained out. Is this normal? The T is on level ground.

Also, am I supposed to pull up the floors, open up the trans cover and pour a quart all over the gears since it's been sitting for 20 odd years? I thought I read that or saw a video on it somewhere. So many videos pop up about first starts but these cars seem to have been sitting outside in a field and maybe that helps. My T was in a heated garage.

Inquiring minds want to know.

[RVA23T]

I would just hand crank the engine, with the spark plugs removed, clutch in neutral, to move the oil around, perhaps adding in the extra Qt back into the engine and after a several spinning secessions, drain out the extra oil again.
Pouring into the transmission inspection cover is just going to run down to find level, down low where it needs to get slung around by a rotating engine anyway.

[TWrenn]

Eventually some will tell you, which is true, that the "dips" in the crankcase inspection plate obviously hold some old oil. But not a quart's worth, and frankly, not enough to worry about all this about jacking up the front of the car to "move the oil" to the bottom of the trans. area where the drain is. I never do, and immediately after adding new oil and staring engine, then checking oil after it settles back in, the oil is clean as a whistle. Those few ounces of old oil aint gonna hurt a thing! Otherwise, yes it IS a good idea to take off the trans. inspection cover if for no other reason than to inspect, inspect, inspect inside that tranny. And for Pete's sake it ought to have a screen in it anyway which needs to be looked at at least every oil change. On a fresh rebuild, or new band installation you may want to open it up a bit more often just to see if any crud is showing up during the break-in process. You can also look at your bands to see how they look, and at least be able to see a little bit of your drums for anything that might otherwise look out of the ordinary.

[TWrenn]

Here's another reason to open up the top of your trans. and inspect! While this is rare, it does happen! Unfortunately things went south here before I coulda spotted it but heaven forbid anyone else's trans. experiences this just maybe they'd catch it in time while having the lid off.

[John kuehn]

As with any old engine drain the oil and refill with fresh oil. With a T engine open up the trans cover and check things out. Turn the engine over a few times to move the oil around and then try starting it up.
This is assuming you’ve checked to see if the engine is not locked up. Of course if it’s been sitting for years and years outside it’s a different story.

[signsup]

Just went through this with a T that had been sitting for a few years. Changed oil before I attempted first start for some reason. After weeks of adding MMO and sprays and lubricants to free stuck valves, my engine oil was more additives than motor oil. So, after making sure the engine at least fired on all cylinders, I changed the oil again.
So,, it sounds like you have already changed to new oil, hope you don't have any stuck engine issues. You could have put a few teaspons of motor oil in each cylinder and hand rotated the engine to lubricate cylinder walls.
But mine takes almost a full gallon to replace engine oil

[BobUkPipedream]

I will have to change my oil soon as just rebuilt engine. Then I am going to fit a pump and filter just to polish the fuel - probably after every run - so just pump oil from sump into oil filter and back into sump. I really do not want to be changing oil every few hundred miles and I really do not want to be running oil for a few hundred miles without cleaning it a bit.

[TWrenn]

I understand what you're saying Bob, and myself never trying to polish the oil so I don't know what all that entails work & time-wise, but in my weak, warped, sadistic mind I'd rather just spend the $17 for a gallon of Rotella 10w30 and change it after 250 miles from the rebuild. Then another 250 and should be good to go on the usual schedule. Just went theiugh that witj my '26 rebuilt engine 2 years ago and now rhe oil goes 600 miles easily with little to no junk in the screen.

[TXGOAT2]

A clean T engine can run much farther than 200 miles on a fresh oil fill. 1,000 miles should be no problem at all with an engine that is broken in and driven normally. I drive mine father than that, more like 1500 to 1800 miles. (With an air filter and a transmission screen, using 10W30 full synthetic oil) When I start my car, I usually drive it 20 to 70 miles. If I'm not going to drive it, I do not start it.

My car has a Texas T oiler installed. It moves a LOT of oil, so much that I had to add a restriction in the oil line to prevent over-oiling and smoking at idle. I speculate that a Texas T oiler could push oil through a Ford FL 1 type spin on filter, provided the oil was not thick. I know that cold multi-grade oil will pass though a clean FL-1 and similar filters quite easily. It is important that the oil flow direction be correct with a spin on type filter, since most of them have valves to prevent back-flow.

A Texas T oiler can develop as much as 5 PSI at moderate engine speeds. A remote filter adapter could be used to mount a spin-on filter down low and 1/2" ID plumbing, kept as short as possible, used to connect it. This arrangement would both cool and filter the oil whenever the engine was running, and would add a quart to the system's capacity. Oil flow past the filter could be easily verified by adding a valve on the downstream side of the filter.

Modern oil has many properties that allow it to perform far better for far longer than the best oil available in the 1920s.

A transmission cover screen and an effective air filter, and good driving habits, will do far more to preserve the T engine's life than will changing the oil every time you drive around the block.

A transmission screen and magnet are very effective at catching band lint and small ferrous metal particles.

Avoiding needless cold starts, short trips, overcooling, and cold idling will prevent oil contamination and carbon and sludging issues.

[vping]

Thanks. I have taken out the floor boards to with on the gas tank so I'll check the trans cover and look inside. More to follow.

[speedytinc]

Not run in 20 years.
After you look under the cover & everything is OK, dump 2 quarts of oil on the bands & triple gears. About 1/4 quart @ a time. Some oil will get to the bushings & some will soak into the bands. Cant hurt. I do this for a fresh engine rebuild every time.

[vping]

Oh and the owner had both the engine and trans rebuilt in the mid ninties. Car has not driven since roughly 2001.

[Professor Fate]

After 20 yrs, suggestion is to go thru the front end and make sure it's tight, cotter pinned, and ready to go. Repacking the front wheel bearings, greasing cups and oiling stuff per the chart is a good idea. Check the fan for cracks too.... just some thoughts. Good luck!

[vping]

Thanks for the advice. I've started checking those items already and more questions on the way. Which book is said chat in?

[Professor Fate]

The Ford issued manual for the T. Most everything we need to know is in there.
Lang's has them. I have two.... one in the shop, and one in the house.