Starting crank extension? Options?

[signsup]

Sorry for monopolizing the forum lately, but there is wisdom in the masses. So, I messed up and it's not a deal breaker, but wondering if I can cobble something up or if there are some other options to bail me out. Installed shutter on front of radiator grill because I had one is tock and I think it looks very military for my WWI ambulance project. Got it all loosely installed and a rod to the cab to operate the shutters from inside the cab. I'm tickled pink in the looks of it.
But, then reality hits home when I go to crank start it and rip open all four fingers of my right hand when the crank handle hits the bottom of the shutter. I've got electric start,, but it's a nice show and tell to hand crank it. I need at least 2" in hight and if I reinstall the shutter and wings hight enough, it will cover up half the Ford script and I'm not in love with that option. Feels like I only need about 1/2" forward to clear the shutter, so if there is any way to lengthen the part of the crank that holds the pin and special female end that grabs the crank nut, that would be a fix.
Don't know if any vendor make an extended crank or if a crank from another model car might work? I would think welding on a 1" or so of rod to the tip would be under a lot of torque and stress.

Any thoughts? Other than I'm an idiot for not checking the fit prior to brain farting.

[havnfun]

A quick fix you could heat the crank handle by first bend, straightening it out, then bend again an inch or so forward.

[speedytinc]

I dont know of a non stock length available.
If you have an oxy/acetylene torch, get a chunk of rod stock & make one.

[Les Schubert]

I like Joe’s answer!

[Chris Bamford]

I like Joe’s answer!

And it is period correct: An easy and effective solution after the mechanics busted their knuckles in the motor pool shops back in the day.

[Kevin Pharis]

I welded an extra 3” into a hand crank years ago to clear a lowered front suspension. If you do the same, take care to keep the pin hole clocked to the handle as this will change the angle of the handle relative to TDC

[Ed Fuller]

I have Laurel lowering brackets on the front axle of my speedster. They move the axle ahead of the spring and closer to the hand crank.

I did something similar to Kevin’s except I cut the front off of one crank handle and the back off of another and welded the two together making it longer than stock.

I made sure to keep the pin hole clocked in relation to the handle just as Kevin said.

[Allan]

There is every chance your original handle is well worn. I have corrected this by cutting the worn section off, deep V ing the donor piece of new 3/4" rod and welding it to the handle. Just cut your donor piece longer than the bit you cut off. This will fix your problem and any wear in the original. Do be sure to "clock" it as suggested.

Allan from down under.

[Craig Leach]

Hi Robert,
Joe is on to something but 1" off the handle is a rather large loss of leverage. maybe just put a 15 degree bend @ the engine end & 15 degree
bend @ the handle end that will move the handle out about a inch & only shorten the throw about a quarter of a inch.
Craig.

[signsup]

Wow! Great responses. Some I had going around in my mind and some were not. If I were to cut and weld in a splice, it would be on the "inner" straight rod and I would have to clock the holes. But the bending is an option that I want to try first. I have several old cranks and it was suggested by a forum member that just opening up the two bends about 5 degrees each would allow the crank to clear the shutter. The handle is not an issue, but bending the inner bend to clear the shutter would cause the handle to be at an upward angle. So opening up the outer bend would bring it back to parallel.

I'm gonna heat one up and see if I can open up the two bends and report back.

Thanks for all the input. You would think a vendor of the cranks could make some an insh longer than standard for situations like those mentioned in this thread.

[BobUkPipedream]

I welded mine. I tend to go overboard on these things, so welded in a piece and ran a sleeve (tube) over the top and welded that too.

If you have a pipe bender, you can use that to unbend or straighten it out a bit. I used mine to straighten the crank and bend all kinds of bits for car and boat.

[signsup]

I've got the crank in the vise waiting for my son to come home from work and help me heat up and bend. But, we do have a pipe bender, so we will look at that option as well. The pipe bender will allow us to mark before and after bends. I also have a decent parts crank that I could cut a 4" or so section off of and cut off a 3" or so section off the current crank and weld the replacement, longer section on and I'd be a single weld 1" long, no holes to drill fix. I like the idea of possibly using a crank bushing as a sleeve over the weld and weld the sleeve in place and use it as the bushing in the nose clamp.
But, I will try the bending first.

I'll report back.

[signsup]

After action report, as promised. Put the crank on the pipe bender and opened up both bends. Pic is next to original crank. Probably opened up more than we needed to, but after installation, certainly clears the shutter and pops off after start. Perfect solution, no welding, drilling, clocking, etc.
Thanks to all.

[speedytinc]

"never overlook the obvious"