The bearing collar on the end of the bendix assembly is threaded on, and then staked to make it stay there.
This photo shows how I remove it.
There is a shorted bullet head nail piece inserted in one of the two holes in the collar. A shortened bolt is screwed in at the other end. The nail head stops the collar from turning in the vice soft jaws. The Crescent wrench is used to screw the drive, the short bolt making a stop on which the wrench engages. It takes some effort to overcome the two stakings on the inside of the collar.
Refitting the parts is a simple reversal. It often helps to grind a little off the inner end of the collar before refitting. This allows the collar to screw on a little further, enabling a new position for the staking.
Allan from down under.
Removing the Bendix collar
Forum rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
If you need help logging in, or have question about how something works, use the Support forum located here Support Forum
Complete set of Forum Rules Forum Rules
-
Topic author - Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
-
- Posts: 5172
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 12:18 pm
- First Name: Steve
- Last Name: Tomaso
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Touring, 1919 Centerdoor, 1924 TT C-Cab Express, 1925 Racer
- Location: Longbranch, WA
- Board Member Since: 2001
Re: Removing the Bendix collar
Good instruction - might try that on my next rebuild !