Hi all,
Does anybody know the best way to remove the peened over pin that holds the brake cam on? I've tried drilling, hammering, heat, and using my 20 ton press to no avail.
What's the secret???
Thanks,
John
brake cam pin removal
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- Posts: 1906
- Joined: Tue Jan 08, 2019 12:22 am
- First Name: craig
- Last Name: leach
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1919 Firetruck/1922 Speedster
- Location: Laveen Az
Re: brake cam pin removal
Hi John,
I'm assuming you are wanting to replace the cams & bushings? You have exhausted the usual methods, sometime the pins are so rusted that they
just will not come out. I sometimes use taper pins & they will not come out the wrong way! Just mite be easier to to replace the levers with
one's that came off easier, than fighting the ones you have. Just cut the shaft with a hack saw & hope the bushings are more cooperative. Didn't someone sell a lot of those levers earlier this year? Sorry that is of little help.
Craig.
I'm assuming you are wanting to replace the cams & bushings? You have exhausted the usual methods, sometime the pins are so rusted that they
just will not come out. I sometimes use taper pins & they will not come out the wrong way! Just mite be easier to to replace the levers with
one's that came off easier, than fighting the ones you have. Just cut the shaft with a hack saw & hope the bushings are more cooperative. Didn't someone sell a lot of those levers earlier this year? Sorry that is of little help.
Craig.
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- Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: brake cam pin removal
I was wondering if you were working on the cam on the handbrake cross member. It has just one pin. It is also usually bronzed to the shaft.
The levers on the cams at the backing plate have two rivets each side. I drill the rivets three parts of the way through. I use a larger drill to make the hole cut the side of the rivet. Then A pin punch resting at the bottom of the hole will usually dislodge the rivet. A second pair of hands to hold a heavy hammed under the other side will make the process easier.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
The levers on the cams at the backing plate have two rivets each side. I drill the rivets three parts of the way through. I use a larger drill to make the hole cut the side of the rivet. Then A pin punch resting at the bottom of the hole will usually dislodge the rivet. A second pair of hands to hold a heavy hammed under the other side will make the process easier.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
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- First Name: Andrew
- Last Name: Clary
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Runabout 1926 Coupe. Mercury Speedster #1249
- Location: Usa
Re: brake cam pin removal
When I replace a brake cam I cut off the cam chuck the stub and lever in the lathe and bore it out.
A lot easier on the brake arm. If you don’t have a lathe make a new friend. I have more friends due to tools.
Andy
A lot easier on the brake arm. If you don’t have a lathe make a new friend. I have more friends due to tools.
Andy
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- First Name: K
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- Board Member Since: 2017
Re: brake cam pin removal
One pin so your working with a large drum rear axle brake cam?
I cut the peened head with a sharp cutting chisel, then drill with an undersized bit, then support edge of cam arm on an anvil and punch it out. Bigger hammer if needed.
Example photos from recent effort on a small drum cam (two pins). It’s much harder if axle is on the car.
I cut the peened head with a sharp cutting chisel, then drill with an undersized bit, then support edge of cam arm on an anvil and punch it out. Bigger hammer if needed.
Example photos from recent effort on a small drum cam (two pins). It’s much harder if axle is on the car.