Today, I decided it was time that I take my front wheels on my T and clean and repack both the inner and outer bearings of each wheel. The outer wheel bearing on the passenger side has already been replaced since We owned this T. I found the outer bearing on the driver's side of the car still okay but about to the point it is going to need replacing soon. I kind of was not surprised that it was worn as I thought I had been noticing a tad bit of wheel wobble on that side while driving on the highways.
My question is that the passenger side wheel bearing hub has always been a tad bit warm to the touch after driving. However, I am stumped as to why I took it for a short drive after repacking the wheel bearings and the right side which is the side with the good wheel bearing is what I would call hot to the touch. I packed them with gun grease. Is there something else I should have used instead? That is what I have been using.
Any ideas why that wheel hub would be hot to the touch after a repacking of the grease job and if I if should be using something else in the way of grease for this Service Job.
Thanks.
1926 Model T Touring
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Re: 1926 Model T Touring
Wheel bearing grease, numerous manufacturers. If you need new bearings or races, Rock Auto has the best prices.
(Thank you Frank Brandi)-
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Re: 1926 Model T Touring
It could be a little bit tight. Try backing it just a thousandth or so.
Norm
Norm
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Re: 1926 Model T Touring
Thank You . I will try that first.Norman Kling wrote: ↑Sun Jul 21, 2024 8:58 pmIt could be a little bit tight. Try backing it just a thousandth or so.
Norm
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Re: 1926 Model T Touring
Snug, then back off about 1/4 turn. Tighten the lock nut & spin the wheel. It should turn freely, but not feel sloppy. Its quite common to set the bearing & it tightens up to much with the locking nut. Unique to the treaded bearing. You have to develop a feel for how loose it should be before tightening the nut & cotter pinning.
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Re: 1926 Model T Touring
It is better to have a smidgeon of play in the bearings rather than have them binding, even a little bit.
When setting the clearance I drive a wooden wedge between the axle and the spindle body to take any play in the spindle bushes out of the equation.
Then screw the bearing in until there is no play when you rock the wheel on the spindle, before winding the bearing out to get a little play. When you do up the axle nut to lock the bearing in place, check for play again. Chances are the slop in the threads and now the tension on the nut, have removed the bit of play you are after. Back things off again and give yourself a little more clearance before locking things up again.
If you find when you have the bit of play set you cannot fit a cotter pin, unwind the nut and dress a little off the back on a sheet of emery paper, and try again. Do NOT shift the bearing cone so the nut will go on further.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
When setting the clearance I drive a wooden wedge between the axle and the spindle body to take any play in the spindle bushes out of the equation.
Then screw the bearing in until there is no play when you rock the wheel on the spindle, before winding the bearing out to get a little play. When you do up the axle nut to lock the bearing in place, check for play again. Chances are the slop in the threads and now the tension on the nut, have removed the bit of play you are after. Back things off again and give yourself a little more clearance before locking things up again.
If you find when you have the bit of play set you cannot fit a cotter pin, unwind the nut and dress a little off the back on a sheet of emery paper, and try again. Do NOT shift the bearing cone so the nut will go on further.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.