Distributor suggestions

[RadRacer203]

So since my T's magneto decided to let go over the weekend, I've been looking for solutions aside from pushing it off a cliff or setting it on fire. I was looking at the Ranch distributors, but I don't much like that you have to grind down the end of the camshaft, and I've heard mixed reviews about the Texas T distributors because of iffy modern parts. Anyone have a recommendation what I should grab? Maybe someone redoes period correct distributors? I do have a Thomas distributor in (nearly) usable shape (probably needs a condensor and the points cleaned up, and I have to figure out what plug wire style fits the cap) that I am very tempted to use, I would just have to figure out the linkage for it, and how the gear actually fits on the camshaft because there isn't a hole for the pin.

[Dan McEachern]

You really don't need a pin to drive the gear on the camshaft. The pressure from the nut should be sufficient to get the job done. More important to make sure the two gears are properly centered with each other.

[Ed Fuller]

Easiest thing to do would be to just run the coils off of a 12 volt battery. A decent battery will last a long time without having to be recharged. One of my T’s has a non working magneto and I run it that way. Runs great!

[speedytinc]

Texas distributors used to be OK units, but its been 2 decades since I have installed them for others.

You could stay with the stock system but run the ignition system on a separate 12V battery. An ignition dedicated battery will run for several days on a full charge. I knew a guy that ran his T on a Makita 9.6V power tool battery. Would last all day plus.
I believe "properly tuned" coils will run fine on 6V.

My preferred dizzy set up is a Bosch front plate with an early iron 009 replacing the shaft full length. Self built set up.

The Thomas cam gear is held in place by wrenching tight. Look very closely @ the upper shaft bushing. They are usually very worn & will effect ign. performance. I had one ready to install on my 14 until I figured out how to make a stock system perform.

Sorry I cant be more helpful.

[RadRacer203]

You really don't need a pin to drive the gear on the camshaft. The pressure from the nut should be sufficient to get the job done. More important to make sure the two gears are properly centered with each other.

Ok good to know, the Thomas distributor is looking more feasible now

[RadRacer203]

Easiest thing to do would be to just run the coils off of a 12 volt battery. A decent battery will last a long time without having to be recharged. One of my T’s has a non working magneto and I run it that way. Runs great!

The problem I have with that is that I am currently looking to sell my car for various reasons, and I don't think anyone looking to buy one is going to like, for lack of a better term, a hack job like that. I would happily run it like that if I was keeping it, but I can't

[RadRacer203]

Texas distributors used to be OK units, but its been 2 decades since I have installed them for others.

You could stay with the stock system but run the ignition system on a separate 12V battery. An ignition defecated battery will run for several days on a full charge. I knew a guy that ran his T on a Makita 9.6V power tool battery. Would last all day plus.
I believe "properly tuned" coils will run fine on 6V.

My preferred dizzy set up is a Bosch front plate with an early iron 009 replacing the shaft full length. Self built set up.

The Thomas cam gear is held in place by wrenching tight. Look very closely @ the upper shaft bushing. They are usually very worn & will effect ign. performance. I had one ready to install on my 14 until I figured out how to make a stock system perform.

Sorry I cant be more helpful.

Very good to know, I will check that out but I believe it's in good shape. Just have to take it apart and clean it, and check that while it's apart if I go that route

[TXGOAT2]

You may only need to clean the mag post contact. I'd also check the switch and wiring.

[RadRacer203]

You may only need to clean the mag post contact. I'd also check the switch and wiring.

I did check everything out, and unfortunately I came to the conclusion that a wire or one of the coils is broken inside the transmission. There were a few bad connections, but the magneto was making 0 volts and 0 amps

[TRDxB2]

Easiest thing to do would be to just run the coils off of a 12 volt battery. A decent battery will last a long time without having to be recharged. One of my T’s has a non working magneto and I run it that way. Runs great!

The problem I have with that is that I am currently looking to sell my car for various reasons, and I don't think anyone looking to buy one is going to like, for lack of a better term, a hack job like that. I would happily run it like that if I was keeping it, but I can't

The magneto (stock or external) or battery to supply the power to the coils, a timer or distributor cap is what sends the power to the spark plugs.
Options magneto or battery
1.Coil units in a coil box & timer
2.Coil units in a coil box & vintage distributor (American Bosch, Atwater Kent, Thomas etc)
3.A modern single coil & vintage (American Bosch, Atwater Kent?, Thomas?) distributor or modern (like Texas T) distributor
there are more creative ways too

There is no "hack job" when running on battery and option 1. That is how the car is started and often run. There is evidence that a 12 volt battery gives a slightly better spark than a 6 volt battery - but like everything T coils need to be tuned for optimal performance.
The question then is how to charge the battery. There is a setup for a magneto & now there is voltage regulator for cars with a generator.

A high Ah ampere hours (not CCA) battery will give hours of use

[Craig Leach]

John is correct about the upper bushing on a Thomas. I had one wear Out on me, didn't stop me from running but did effect performance a lot.
I'm running a Reader distributer that I put on while I was re-bushing the Thomas. Re-bushing is not much fun but doable. As far as the Thomas
condenser you can unsolder the under side if the stock condenser & install a new modern one inside & re-solder the cover back on & it will look
stock. If I was going to sell the car anyway I would just run it on a battery as suggested & tell the buyer about the mag & let them decide.
Craig.

[Ed Fuller]

Easiest thing to do would be to just run the coils off of a 12 volt battery. A decent battery will last a long time without having to be recharged. One of my T’s has a non working magneto and I run it that way. Runs great!

The problem I have with that is that I am currently looking to sell my car for various reasons, and I don't think anyone looking to buy one is going to like, for lack of a better term, a hack job like that. I would happily run it like that if I was keeping it, but I can't

Please explain why you consider it a “hack job”. All Model T ignition switches have three positions, Magneto, Battery, and Off. Just keep the switch in the battery position and use a 12 volt battery.

[RadRacer203]

Easiest thing to do would be to just run the coils off of a 12 volt battery. A decent battery will last a long time without having to be recharged. One of my T’s has a non working magneto and I run it that way. Runs great!

The problem I have with that is that I am currently looking to sell my car for various reasons, and I don't think anyone looking to buy one is going to like, for lack of a better term, a hack job like that. I would happily run it like that if I was keeping it, but I can't

Please explain why you consider it a “hack job”. All Model T ignition switches have three positions, Magneto, Battery, and Off. Just keep the switch in the battery position and use a 12 volt battery.

It's just that if you have to charge the battery every so often while running cause it doesn't charge itself, it doesn't seem like a very good solution especially if this car is being sold. I get that it's fine, but people who aren't really into T's will definitely see that as not ideal. Converting to 12v sure, but I'm not looking to redo the wiring, or replacing the generator I just replaced 200 miles ago. So I'm looking at a distributor with single coil of some description that I can use with 6v

[AndyClary]

I think auto spell got you John. I’ve had some crummy batteries but never defecated.

Andy

[speedytinc]

I think auto spell got you John. I’ve had some crummy batteries but never defecated.

Andy

That's funny. Spell check failed me?

[TRDxB2]

The problem I have with that is that I am currently looking to sell my car for various reasons, and I don't think anyone looking to buy one is going to like, for lack of a better term, a hack job like that. I would happily run it like that if I was keeping it, but I can't

Please explain why you consider it a “hack job”. All Model T ignition switches have three positions, Magneto, Battery, and Off. Just keep the switch in the battery position and use a 12 volt battery.

It's just that if you have to charge the battery every so often while running cause it doesn't charge itself, it doesn't seem like a very good solution especially if this car is being sold. I get that it's fine, but people who aren't really into T's will definitely see that as not ideal. Converting to 12v sure, but I'm not looking to redo the wiring, or replacing the generator I just replaced 200 miles ago. So I'm looking at a distributor with single coil of some description that I can use with 6v

I'm confused. You are not liking the need to charge the battery but adding a distributor doesn't change that. Since you have a generator just add a 6 volt voltage regulator to charge the battery and keep what you have (coils & timer). These are made by a MTFCA member https://modeltstarters.com/product-cate ... s-cutouts/

[Allan]

My 1912 van runs on a small 14AH 12 volt battery all day in city driving on promotional work. You do not, ever, have to recharge during a day's work. A full size battery would run for a week or more. Your choice. spend dollars on a dubious update distributor, or adopt a battery as many T owners have.

Allan from down under.

[RadRacer203]

Please explain why you consider it a “hack job”. All Model T ignition switches have three positions, Magneto, Battery, and Off. Just keep the switch in the battery position and use a 12 volt battery.

It's just that if you have to charge the battery every so often while running cause it doesn't charge itself, it doesn't seem like a very good solution especially if this car is being sold. I get that it's fine, but people who aren't really into T's will definitely see that as not ideal. Converting to 12v sure, but I'm not looking to redo the wiring, or replacing the generator I just replaced 200 miles ago. So I'm looking at a distributor with single coil of some description that I can use with 6v

I'm confused. You are not liking the need to charge the battery but adding a distributor doesn't change that. Since you have a generator just add a 6 volt voltage regulator to charge the battery and keep what you have (coils & timer). These are made by a MTFCA member https://modeltstarters.com/product-cate ... s-cutouts/

Yes, I have one of those voltage regulators on a rebuilt generator, and that's what I'm currently running and it's just fine. My thought was that I should probably do something like a distributor conversion since the car is being sold, so it isn't like I'm trying to sell a car that just has a broken part I haven't fixed. If you're saying it's ok to just run battery ignition as-is though I'll just do that and let the next owner tackle the magneto or a distributor if they want to

[RadRacer203]

My 1912 van runs on a small 14AH 12 volt battery all day in city driving on promotional work. You do not, ever, have to recharge during a day's work. A full size battery would run for a week or more. Your choice. spend dollars on a dubious update distributor, or adopt a battery as many T owners have.

Allan from down under.

I totally get that, and if I was keeping the car this is the route I would take. But I'm not keeping the car unfortunately, and if I saw a car that had a setup like that, it was immediately turn me off of the car, because it would seem like the owner didn't know what they were doing. I would absolutely do it on something I owned long term and have no problems with that, but right now I have to look at what a buyer would see because I unfortunately am unable to keep the car

[Joe Bell]

I just pulled one of those distributors that was down on where the timer goes, the ideal of grinding some off the cam shaft just did not do the trick on this one, the guy used teflon tape to try to hold the rotor tight from jumping time, it now has the upright distributor on it and running fine. what a pain it was to work on the other style, had to pull radiator to get to it!

[RadRacer203]

I just pulled one of those distributors that was down on where the timer goes, the ideal of grinding some off the cam shaft just did not do the trick on this one, the guy used teflon tape to try to hold the rotor tight from jumping time, it now has the upright distributor on it and running fine. what a pain it was to work on the other style, had to pull radiator to get to it!

Good to know, it has the texas T distributor now? The grinding a flat spot on the end of the camshaft is reslly putting me off of the ranch distributor, I think I'm definitely not getting one of those

[J1MGOLDEN]

If you removed the magneto terminal on top and found a good clean connection area, you still have to replace it and measure the resistance with an Ohmmeter that has a needle, rather than a digital read out.

If you read between 1 and 2 Ohms, and your Mag worked before, you may only need to charge the magnets again.

You need 48 Volts from three 12 Volt batteries to charge the magnets, but you can wipe out that charge with one 6 Volts DC Battery, strange as it may seem.

[Kerry]

Bad maths James, 3x12 will give 36 volts required for the charge.

[TXGOAT2]

If you have a generator, I'd assume you have a 6 volt battery. If not, add one. Run the car on "BAT". It will run fine. Spark lever adjustment may be a little different, but the car will start and run just fine.

[TXGOAT2]

If you want a distributor, that's fine. You don't need one.
FWIW, as a buyer, I would choose a T with stock ignition over one with a distributor, all else being about the same.
The stock system is adequate, it's genuine Model T, and it offers free starts and easy on the road diagnosis and servicing and a level of redundancy.
(My 2 cents, at a two-cent discount)

[RVA23T]

I 4th or 5th the motion to leave it alone, giving the next owner to opportunity to chose how they want to change it. I'm experiencing a decrease in magneto output presently and an operating on 6v with Ecct tuned coils and an I-timer with out loss of performance.
Performance of well tuned coils might be a better focus than the desire change the timer out. The timer isn't the offending part , the Magneto is.

[MKossor]

Another option is stock coils and an E-Timer. Operates on 6V-12V battery so eliminates all Magneto variables yet provides maintenence free performance and automatic Timing Advance. More information here: www.modeltetimer.com

[TRDxB2]

Yes, I have one of those voltage regulators on a rebuilt generator, and that's what I'm currently running and it's just fine. My thought was that I should probably do something like a distributor conversion since the car is being sold, so it isn't like I'm trying to sell a car that just has a broken part I haven't fixed. If you're saying it's ok to just run battery ignition as-is though I'll just do that and let the next owner tackle the magneto or a distributor if they want to

Now I understand your thinking. By all means leave it as it is and let the new owner decide. Some purists may decline because it has a distributor, others may weigh their options (leave it as it is, magneto stock or external, distributor clip on or face plate), and some may buy the car if you throw in the Thomas distributor. Just need to tell them about the magneto not working

[Craig Leach]

I would like to defend the Model T Ranch distributer. The first T I purchased had one ( and it was not the best installation) The rotor fit loose
enough that it would come loose I screw up the timing. Drilling & tapping for a set screw got it through 10 years of great service. I run a reader distributer on that engine, I have had a Thomas on it also & the flat has no effect on that at all. I run a Model T Ranch distributer on my fire
truck and almost never ever look at it it is so reliable. I like Johns Model T ranch distributer so much that I mounted one on a converted At-Water
Kent timer elevator for my next speedster project. JMHO
Craig.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

My thought was that I should probably do something like a distributor conversion since the car is being sold, so it isn't like I'm trying to sell a car that just has a broken part I haven't fixed.

No matter what igniton system you choose, if you don't fix the mag, the car will still have a "broken part".

To answer your original question, a Bosch front plate is the best. Especially if you find one with an original Bosch head, instead of the 009 one. Expensive though. Probably best to leave the ignition as-is, run it off 6V, and include a rebuilt mag coil ring with the sale of the car. I ran my T for several years on coils and 6V. It ran great and did everything I asked of it.

[RadRacer203]

Ok, I decided I'm just going to leave it as is for right now, and the next owner can do what they want. The Thomas distributor will go with the car and it seems just fine to use once the points are cleaned up and the condensor is replaced. The parts car that goes with the coupe should also have a good magneto ring too if the next person wants to fix that. Right now I just need to get rid of this car because I lost shop space and I can't really work on it aside from the most basic of maintenance

[TXGOAT2]

Tens of thousands of Model Ts have run millions of miles on "BAT".

Your magneto may have an open mag post connection or a shorted one.

The mag post is part of the mag coil circuit.

[RadRacer203]

Tens of thousands of Model Ts have run millions of miles on "BAT".

Your magneto may have an open mag post connection or a shorted one.

The mag post is part of the mag coil circuit.

Unfortunately it's that coil ring itself. Tried with 2 other known good posts, and tried zapping it with a battery to recharge yhe magnets, but nothing worked. Outputs 0 volts

[TXGOAT2]

Did you get a spark when you touched the battery leads to the post?

[John Codman]

Any time I see a Model T with a distributor, or running only on battery - I instantly know why. Any "fix" that doesn't result in an operable magneto is a patch job. I don't mean to insult anybody nor denigrate their work, but the permanent cure is to get the magneto operational.

[RadRacer203]

Any time I see a Model T with a distributor, or running only on battery - I instantly know why. Any "fix" that doesn't result in an operable magneto is a patch job. I don't mean to insult anybody nor denigrate their work, but the permanent cure is to get the magneto operational.

Oh absolutely, but that's a massive job. If I had shop space I would, but without a lift or an engine hoist, it's basically impossible. Ideally I would just run one of those aftermarket magnetos that bolts to the front of the engine, but actually finding one is easier said than done

[TRDxB2]

Patch Jobs

[Bryant]

I removed my magneto because I wanted to.
One day I would like to have an original style ford ignition system.
If a permanent cure is an operational magneto why is this even a topic? Wasn’t it the mag that failed?
I believe if you want a distributor go for it! Just build it right. If you want a magneto build it! Also do it right.
Do your research, both have been proven and Both can be enjoyed
If the OP would like to press on I am sure whatever route they take the knowledge of the MTFCA will be able to figure it out.

Bryant

[TXGOAT2]

A car with a stock ignition system and a 6 volt battery and generator does not need a working magneto. Just switch to BAT and be on your way. For best performance with battery or magneto, adjust coils properly and keep the timer in good order. With a 6 volt system, voltage when the car is running is typically 7 volts or a little more.

[Norman Kling]

I would say that the E timer would be the best choice. Your coils will work on it and the only change you will need to make is the timer or adding a battery if you don't have one. You say you are interested in selling the T. One of the big reasons people buy T's is because of the unique ignition system. On tours I have rarely seen cars running on coils break down because of the ignition system. Most drivers carry one or two known good coils just in case they need one. Also a few good spark plugs. But with a distributor, there are so many different kinds that if you do install one, be sure to carry spare parts, because they are not always available at Auto Zone of Napa. Anyway I do think the E-timer is the best fix. Next the engine or transmission has to be pulled, you can fix the magneto and switch back to the system Henry was famous for.
Norm

[walber]

Do what YOU want to do to keep it running and happy. Lots of choices from simple to complex (and potentially expensive).

Early on when I was new to Model T's I struggled with stock coils and timers and got frustrated. I just wanted to be able to drive my car (25 touring). After getting stuck on a tour and getting help from many folks, I opted to go with what I knew. Growing up working on cars from the 50's and early 60's I understood distributors and got a Rader conversion. This was in the mid 80's and that distributor is still working fine on that car. Points and condenser have been changed but it has never failed me or the new owner.

I tried again with rebuilt coils and an Anderson timer on a '26 coupe. It was OK but after a couple years the coils were no longer up to snuff. Replaced the car with a Model A that was more comfortable.

For 30 years, I've been using a Rader style distributor on my speedster. Works fine but I did have a coil fail one time. Quickly replaced at O'Reilly's.

If you plan to tour like I do, carry spares for whatever ignition system you decide on and keep it tuned up. I learned in the '60's to replace points and condenser at about 10K miles. That old lesson still works and means every 3 or 4 years with my cars.

I own a T to drive and enjoy, that works for me. Do what works for you and have a good time.

[SurfCityGene]

Like others with great knowledge and experience have offered the ETimer would be the best choice that keeps your Model T looking like an original T!
You will get the best performance possible and never have to any adjustments or maintenance.

Many miles and years of superior performance without worrying about the timer!

[TXGOAT2]

As I understand it, using the E-timer converts your stock T system into a modern, electronically operated 4-coil system with no mechanical timer or vibrator points in the circuit. Coil adjustment and ignition point adjustment is eliminated and the mechanical timer is eliminated. This arrangement is essentially the same as is used on many late model engines, except that you are using Model T coils.