Did the 13 hoodformer use polished brass screws or painted screws?
Thank you Craig
1913 "T" hoodformer question
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Craig E. Luton
Topic author - Posts: 183
- Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2019 1:40 pm
- First Name: Craig
- Last Name: Luton
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1914 Ford Runabout; 1915 Ford Touring; 1936 Ford Pick-up
- Location: Clancy Montana
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DanTreace
- Posts: 3812
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 10:56 am
- First Name: Dan
- Last Name: Treace
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: ‘12 open express,'23 cutoff, '27 touring
- Location: North Central FL
- Board Member Since: 2000
- Contact:
Re: 1913 "T" hoodformer question
This info on older post may help.
By John F. Regan on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 09:39 am:
Since your hood former is not factory made - the dimension I have may or may not be correct but original hood formers were mounted with the bottom end at 3/4" above the top surface of the frame. Place a board 3/4" thick on top of your frame and set the hood former on it and you are at the original height if your hood former were original. Ford alternated from time to time between having pilot holes predrilled and then having them "drilled in place" and it is obvious that the 3/4" dimension was not a "must" since I have seen cars with slightly different dimensions so consider that a starting point and adjust your hood for good fit. Ideal fit would be with the edges of the hood just barely above the hood clash strips that are sitting on top of the frame rails at the sides of the hood. Hood former was held to dash with #10 polished oval head slotted brass screws on the 1911-1912 cars and I don't think this changed through 1914.
By John F. Regan on Monday, June 21, 2010 - 09:39 am:
Since your hood former is not factory made - the dimension I have may or may not be correct but original hood formers were mounted with the bottom end at 3/4" above the top surface of the frame. Place a board 3/4" thick on top of your frame and set the hood former on it and you are at the original height if your hood former were original. Ford alternated from time to time between having pilot holes predrilled and then having them "drilled in place" and it is obvious that the 3/4" dimension was not a "must" since I have seen cars with slightly different dimensions so consider that a starting point and adjust your hood for good fit. Ideal fit would be with the edges of the hood just barely above the hood clash strips that are sitting on top of the frame rails at the sides of the hood. Hood former was held to dash with #10 polished oval head slotted brass screws on the 1911-1912 cars and I don't think this changed through 1914.
The best way is always the simplest. The attics of the world are cluttered up with complicated failures. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
Don’t find fault, find a remedy; anybody can complain. Henry Ford
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Allan
- Posts: 6609
- Joined: Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:21 pm
- First Name: Allan
- Last Name: Bennett
- * REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
- Location: Gawler, Australia
Re: 1913 "T" hoodformer question
Follow Dan's advice and use the suggested 3/4" from the frame as a guide only. Then fit the hood. Now you can check the fit of the hood. The former can be moved about on the firewall until you get the best fit for the hood. Once you have that, fix the former in that position. The hood is not adjustable, the radiator position likewise, so moving the former about is the way to go for a good hood fit.
When i pieced together my 1912 van the former was offset 1/2" to one side and almost 1' above the frame. The off centre position is not noticeable at all.
Allan from down under.
When i pieced together my 1912 van the former was offset 1/2" to one side and almost 1' above the frame. The off centre position is not noticeable at all.
Allan from down under.