Frame and Axle Disassembly

[EdVaughn]

I'm need springs and wheels for a rebuild. I found a donor rolling frame and I could probably get what I need from it. How hard is it to break a frame, axles and springs down for easier transport. I am thinking of removing the wheels, disconnecting the leaf springs from the frames. That way I could put it all in a pickup bed for transport.

Am I insane to think this could be done with a minimum of tools? Or it this a very time-consuming project. On the same line of thought, do I need the wheel removal tool of can I take the axle nut with a large wrench?

frame.jpg (75.17 KiB) Viewed 2490 times

frame.jpg (75.17 KiB) Viewed 2490 times

[John kuehn]

It’s probably been sitting in the weather for a good while. Breaking loose nuts and bolts could be hard but you won’t know till you try it. The rear wheels could be the hardest to get off. Have you got a portable torch? Heating up nuts can make them come off easier.
WD40 or something similar works for lubrication.
Have you got a 12 or 16 ft trailer or could borrow one? That’s the easiest way to get it home and then start taring it down.

[TRDxB2]

I'm need springs and wheels for a rebuild. I found a donor rolling frame and I could probably get what I need from it. How hard is it to break a frame, axles and springs down for easier transport. I am thinking of removing the wheels, disconnecting the leaf springs from the frames. That way I could put it all in a pickup bed for transport.

Am I insane to think this could be done with a minimum of tools? Or it this a very time-consuming project. On the same line of thought, do I need the wheel removal tool of can I take the axle nut with a large wrench?
frame.jpgframe.jpg

First question: How far do you need to transport it. Next how long is your pickup bed. The frame is 102 inches long.
A trailer is the best alternative for easy transport
--
With the frame on some jack stands and tires removed, the front and rear axles will unload from the springs. Some support under the axles unbolt from the perches. The rear axle also needs to be undone at the 4th main. The front axle while heavy is manageable.The front spring is heavy but manageable as well. The rear axle, radius rods & torque tube is very heavy BUT the radius rods assist in moving it (takes two people). I would remove the front spring but not the rear. The weight of the rear spring on the frame can serve a purpose

This is what I would - moved one before but on a trailer,
Remove the wheels if you can else proceed to disconnect parts
Disconnect the front end at the perches & ball cap on the engine pan and the spring from the front spring clip (front engine mount). 2 pieces
Disconnect the rear axle at the forth main and rear perches leaving the spring on the axle. 1 piece
Note: The rear axle with torque tube/drive shaft is very heavy and the heaviest of the rest.

Due to its weight I would load the rear axle first laying the housing towards the cab and in front of the rear fenders
load springs & front axle next
Load the frame's rear end first over the rear axle with springs between the rear axle & cab. The weight/placement of the spring should keep it in place. You may be able to lift the front end of the frame up & close the tailgate.

[Allan]

Those appear to be 19" A model wheels, so just undo the nuts and take the wheels off. It should have a set of A ti T wheel adaptors you could on-sell.
Getting the front and rear axle assemblies off the frame is easy enough if the cotter pins and nuts co-operate. With a good ring spanner, you can even shear off a stubborn cotter pin winding off the nut.
Penetrant will help. So will a decent lever to break the springs out of the frame cross members. Then just load it up.

Allan from down under.

[Humblej]

Thinking you can show up with a pickup and a box of tools and get it apart and loaded in short time is probably unrealistic. The reasonable approach would be to show up with a trailer, load it and be gone. Take it apart at your convenience, without a time constraint, and with proper tools, jacks, jack stands, and extra help. Hard to tell from the pictures, but sometimes these things need the blue wrench to get it apart.

[John kuehn]

Probably wouldn’t hurt to keep the frame in good shape during the tare down. I can’t tell if the frame is an earlier frame or a later frame that’s had the running board brackets removed. Looks like the wheels are usable to for a speedster with Model A wheels. Most of the other parts look good and remember that one man’s junk is another man’s treasure.

[TRDxB2]

I don't think it will take that much time tearing it down (unless you hit a snag) BUT who's going to help you lift & oad the pieces onto the pickup. The rear axle with torque tube is a bit over 150lbs, they say.

[Craig Leach]

PB Blaster, propane torch, cordless impact, good sockets & wrenches, packing blankets & tie down's. Plan ahead get there early have a helper.
Welcome to the insanity & hope you have as much fun as the rest of us that are afflicted.
Craig.

[Allan]

Re the age of the frame, I think I can see the three rivets that once held the running board brackets, so 21 or earlier. I cannot see the holes to mount a battery carrier, so that brings it back to 19 or earlier. I am not sure when clipped spring leaves were introduced. If the front axle assembly is original to the frame, the under axle wishbone is later than 17.

Allan from down under.

[varmint]

If you are going to scrap the frame - an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel can make quick work.

We completely disassembled our frame, all rivets, cleaned, welded, painted and reassembled and it took a long time.

[EdVaughn]

Ok better pictures on the Wheels. I assume from the comments that these are Model A wheels and hubs based on the photos. Hoping the will be easier to remove.

[TRDxB2]

Ok better pictures on the Wheels. I assume from the comments that these are Model A wheels and hubs based on the photos. Hoping the will be easier to remove.

Easy way to tell Model A wheels: They have strengthening ribs between the bolt holes

[Allan]

Indeed they are A model wheels, the later 19" ones going by the edges of the rim. Gone is the rounded edge so familiar with T model wire wheels, and the 21" A wheels. I couldn't see that detail in the first photos, but they did look to have the larger hole for the hubcap used on the 19" wheels.

Allan from down under.

[EdVaughn]

All

Thanks for your helpful suggestions, it came apart in 2 hours and a torch was needed on a few stubborn pieces. Side note it all fits in a 2018 VW Atlas…..