Starter motor mounting screws or bolts?

[signsup]

Don't want to start WWIII here, but just removed starter on 1927 project for rebuild and one screw for the starter motor to bell housing was missing and the other three were interesting to remove with the slotted screws. The odds of me finding the correct slotted screw at the local ACE are slim to none and I know the vendors sell the set of 4.
But watching a Utube video from Austrailia on the motor replacement showed him removing bolts with a wrench, not a cap screw with a screw driver.

This will not be museum quality project, want to be secure, safe and oil free. Do I get the set of cap screws from the vendors? Replace one out of sight at the bottom with Phillips head? Or replace all four with a hex head or socket head cap screw?

I'll hang up and listen. And, yes, this is NOT for the bendix cover, but the 5/16" starter to bell housing screws.

Thanks in advance.

[Humblej]

Use the correct round slotted head screw. It is always best to not to mix fasteners that will require different tools just to take one part off. I believe they are 3/8-16 screws, 1/2" long, not an oddball fastener.

[Oldav8tor]

I agree, settle on one type and go with it. Personally I have no objection to hex heads, but then again I also have a modern WOSP Starter so I'm already in trouble with the purists.

[RajoRacer]

Using a 5/16 x 1" bolt w/lock washer is acceptable unless you intend on entering it for judging.

[John kuehn]

The starter slot head head screws aren’t rare. Ace has them and if they don’t you can find them online. Use a lock washer on them and when removing them use the correct size slot head screwdriver. If I remember they are the same size as the transmission cover screws only longer.

[DanTreace]

Hex head bolts and lockwashers will work just fine, with extension on a socket easy to tighten the starter to the hogshead too. Correct slot screws are good, but have seen installs with out those important lock washers and starter gets loose causing Bendix lock up issues.

[RecklessKelly]

I brought bolts for mine. The screws were a pain to get out. Just curious, how thick should the gasket be? That one looks alot thicker than the one I brought.

[DanTreace]

Gasket is paper type T vendor, doubt they vary much in thickness, original were cork and maybe thicker, add some gasket cement to prevent oil leaks.

[RecklessKelly]

I use sealant on all gaskets. The threads sealed also if there are thru holes. A few of them I had to double up with sealant in between to get closer to the original thickness. They were literally "paper thin".

[John kuehn]

Dan!
I like your 5/8 wrench with the ground down sides for getting to those nuts/bolts in tight places. I’m assuming it’s been ground down. Ive done that a few times.

[Allan]

Dan's modified wrench is something every T owner should have.It needs to be thin enough to fit between the insulating bushing and the cable terminal. The first nut is done up just tight enough that the bolt is firmly in place. When the cable is hooked up and the top nut wound down, the wrench holds the nut while the top one is tightened. This stops the bolt twisting at the contact with the bus bar, protects that soldered joint from being broken and at worst, prevents the bolt actually breaking out of the bus bar.

Allan from down under.

[RajoRacer]

Thin wrenches are readily available - I have a set from 3/8 - 7/16 up to 11/16 - 3/4 - quite handy for tight spots !

[TXGOAT2]

"Tappet wrenches" are good to have, and a cheaper set can have the heads ground back if necessary. They are usually thin enough as they are made.