Starter solenoid

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I took advantage of the Christmas time off to play with my '26 touring. The foot starter switch was to the point that it had to be engaged squarely and carefully and still wasn't making great contact. It was either time to replace it or attempt a repair. I decided to add a 6 volt solenoid but didn't necessarily want to modify the car or the wiring. I located an appropriate solenoid and mounted it to the bottom flange of the frame just ahead of the brake quadrant with electrical hangers for bar joist that clamp over the flange and an adapter to elevate the solenoid to the right height. I then took the 2/0 cable that goes from the starter switch to the starter and cut it so that when 90 degree terminals were added, it lined up with the solenoid terminals. I mounted that cable to the same starter switch terminal that comes from the battery. I wired the trigger terminal of the solenoid to the remaining starter switch terminal and was done. The installation was simple and invisible and works very well. The cost was somewhat less than 75.00 and a bit of labor. It would be very easy to wire a remote starter button if desired and the installation can be reversed in minutes with no harm done. I am going to do my '19 roadster the same way and could take some pics as I progress if there is any interest.

[mtntee20]

Please post some photos. I would like to see your work.

Thank You!

[NY John T]

Yes please share how you did it. Thanks

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I did the ‘19 yesterday. It took about half an hour to install. Here is a top view.

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One from the side.

[Jerry VanOoteghem]

Neatly done!

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I am contemplating making a kit. I think it can be sold for under a hundred dollars for solenoid, cables, mounting bracket, trigger wire, and clamps. Do you think it is worth pursuing?

[RecklessKelly]

Neat wiring job. Thats a pretty dry looking T for being in PA.

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That is a Frankenstein-T that I purchased some years ago from a middle aged man who was confined to a wheelchair for several decades following a cancer situation. He and his wife traveled around the Eastern U.S. gathering parts where they could be found. He had the engine, transmission, starter, generator, carburetor, coils, etc professionally rebuilt. It came with new wiring, rims, tires and tubes as well as a new uninstalled Berg radiator and several trailer loads of misc. parts that he had collected in the process. He was asking $6000 for the package and refused to take any more for it. He told me that he had built it from the frame up working from his wheelchair or rolling around on the floor. He was convinced that he would be able to modify it so he could drive it without the use of his legs but it was not to be. I assume he was selling it so as not to burden his wife with it upon his demise. I got it running over the next few months and was disappointed to find that his phone number no longer worked. I really wanted him to have a ride in his T but it didn’t work out. I suspect that he passed away soon after I bought his car. He was an inspiration to me and the ‘19 Roadster is one on my prized possessions. Piece by piece I am trying to complete the project if for no other reason than to make Eric proud.

[RecklessKelly]

Sounds like an interesting car. Hope you can realize his dream and get it on the road.

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Oh, it’s been on the road for a while. Eric was concerned with function rather than beauty so it is as safe as possible but isn’t the most beautiful car on the road. The seat is split and the upholstery for the top is still in a box. The original paint was alligatored so I occasionally strip and prime a section. The fenders are solid but dented and bent here and there. I think it deserves new fenders and splash aprons, if I live long enough. It really is a good quality car even though it has a ratrod look to it. It gets a lot of smiles when I drive it. I guess it really looks like a hundred year old car.

[Allan]

There was another recent post showing that ridiculously long extension on a repop switch recently. There is nothing like a good rebuilt original foot switch for simplicity and function. I would be mounting an original switch/bracket on a raised base so the original plunger is accessible to your foot.

Is the need for the extension there when a starter is fitted to an earlier car, because the flooorboards are higher?

Allan from down under.

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This car came with the aftermarket switch and the extension. The manufacturing tolerances on the switch aren’t good. It travels too far to make contact and when it does, the Chinesium contacts need to be wiggled just so to get enough current through it to satisfy the starter. Since I was experimenting with a solenoid project I was curious to see how much it would improve this setup.

[RecklessKelly]

Mine was like that. I removed the extension and made a brass one just tall enough to be pressed just shy of the floor. The extension caused it to rock and loose contact. It engages normally now.

[J1MGOLDEN]

I made those kits about 10 tears ago and often took the old switch plate and bent it dow to hold the solenoid.

Electric covers make a good substitute.

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I have decided to make up ten kits just to get a firm number on material and labor. They would include the 2/0 cables, solenoid, mounting bracket, trigger wire, clamps and bolts to mount. That would be all that would be required to complete an installation that used the foot switch to energize the solenoid. If you desired to use a remote push button switch on the dash or wherever it would require the switch and wire to complete. I don't want to sell on the general discussion forum so you can pm me through the club website for details. Cost of materials looks to be $55.00 and I would need to add the shipping to that. Less than an hour to install with no modification to the car and easy return to stock if desired.