Roadster Top Irons

[JR Ewing]

I have another question that I have not been able to find online or on this forum and it is regarding the top irons, not to be confused with the bows. The short irons that were in my 1918 Roadster connected the body at the tackstrip to the wood on the seat pillar and did not connect to the seat frame area like others I have seen. Which irons are correct for my car? I did not see any part numbers on my irons but the parts book says the correct iron is part number 8401X. This iron fits left and right sides on 1917-22 Roadsters which leads me to believe these are not the correct iron for my roadster since mine have a left and a right and cannot interchange between left and right sides like the 8401X iron can. I wonder if these are for the rear of a touring. If these are not the correct irons for my roadster and the 8401X is, can somebody provide pictures on what they look like and hopefully the length?

Thanks!

[Wayne Sheldon]

This is another of those "no simple answer" questions that depends on the fact that Ford bought bodies from several suppliers and had minor changes from year to year and even from one order request to the next.
Roadster/runabout top irons (correct term by the way!) were of course different than the touring car irons. Although SOME may have been interchangeable, most were not. And most of the model T top irons I have looked at did have a right and a left, although some could have been bent or otherwise altered to be made to work for either side.
One thing that varied a lot was where the bottom of the top iron was anchored to the wooden framework. Some anchored clear down onto the body sills. Others anchored onto the seat frame, in a couple different ways. A few, anchored onto the door posts.

In reworking a body, the important thing is for the top iron, which ever ones and whatever version, the top part (that which is exposed outside the upholstery) needs to be in the proper position and orientation for the top to work properly. That position and orientation did vary somewhat over the years. It also needs to be solidly bolted into the body's framework somehow. Often, when using top irons sourced from another body, the bottom anchor point will need to be altered.

I seem to recall reading an article in the Vintage Ford years ago showing several versions of top irons and how they were mounted. However I don't at this time have access to most of those articles.

[John kuehn]

The open T’s from 17-22 look pretty close to identical from the outside from a short distance but it’s the details by the different makers who built the bodies themselves that can really make you scratch your head. If you’re looking for a perfect guide to go by you won’t find it.
If you find a pair of top irons that go over the body you should buy them. As the post above noted they need to be secured to the body wood and be a right and left. Some may have a sheet metal strip to help stability and some don’t. You’ll eventually find a pair that will work.

Also try the Gail Rodda Model T parts guide. It may be the closest thing you can find what you need. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29 ... 1194048243
They have been around for many years and have helped many T restores.

They are avaliable on Amazon and still may be found from the parts suppliers.

[JR Ewing]

Wayne and John, Thank you! This makes sense and confirms other statements I've read regarding different irons may have been used depending on where the body was made. I do have concerns that with the irons I have and feel like the body might be better supported if they connected the tackstrip area directly to the seat base rather than to the seat pillar. I do only have one good iron, the other has been repairs with scrap metal, so I won't feel too bad if I modify then to connect to the seat base, unless I find some originals to buy.

I have not heard of the Gail Rodda book, but I will see if I can find a copy.

Whichever route I go on the irons, I will take your advice, Wayne, and make sure they will be in the proper position and orientation. I think I have a book showing this. If not, I will be bugging you guys again with more questions.

Thanks again!

[Mark Gregush]

The type you have mounts to door latch post and do come in L/R's and should work. The 8401X would be both the same. Go down to Richard Eagle's post in the link. He was working on a 1914 but same idea, also in this link are a lot of measurements that might be handy.
viewtopic.php?t=33619

[JR Ewing]

The type you have mounts to door latch post and do come in L/R's and should work. The 8401X would be both the same. Go down to Richard Eagle's post in the link. He was working on a 1914 but same idea, also in this link are a lot of measurements that might be handy.
viewtopic.php?t=33619

Thanks Mark! I did read thru this post when trying to find answers. The location of the irons will definitely be something I need to check. My main concern is that with the irons I currently have and how they only attach from the top of the body to the seat pillar rather than connecting the top of the body to the seat area. It seems like the body would be better supported if the bottom end of the irons mounted to the seat area. Otherwise, that seems like a lot to ask of the body, primarily on the passenger side with an actual door, opening and closing. Over time, I feel this could cause the right side seat pillar to loosen up. I think I will try to find the 8401X irons, or I will modify what I already have to allow for them to mount like the 8401X irons. I am probably overthinking this, but... when in doubt, make it stout!

Thanks for your input!