front crank seal

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tom leroux
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1915 speedster-1927 pick up
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front crank seal

Post by tom leroux » Sun Feb 09, 2025 9:43 pm

what seal o you use rope style or modern if modern what brand
thanks tom

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BrianE63
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: '24 Runabout
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Re: front crank seal

Post by BrianE63 » Sun Feb 09, 2025 11:37 pm

I used a SKF/CR #11777, "backwards" with the lip seal facing forward. With the rim trimmed down to about 1/8" height, it was glued to the front face of the block with Ultra Black and gave just enough clearance from the OEM crank pulley. It can be replaced if necessary, by removing the pulley with no need to remove the pan.
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Allan
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* REQUIRED* Type and Year of Model Ts owned: 1912 van, 1917 shooting brake, 1929 roadster buckboard, 1924 tourer, 1925 barn find buckboard, 1925 D &F wide body roadster, 1927LHD Tudor sedan.
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Re: front crank seal

Post by Allan » Mon Feb 10, 2025 1:54 am

I use the A model white rope seal with the little neoprene core, especially if the crankshaft seal surface has not been dressed. The two pieces are too long in a T, leaving room to trim them down. I soak them in oil and fit one into the timing cover first. They are hammered in using a 7/8" socket on its side to make them conform to the crankshaft. With a piece of shim steel in place to protect the crankshaft surface, the ends are trimmed back to be 1/8" proud of the block surface. The pan gaskets have a U shape cut in their ends to go around the seal. The other piece is fitted to the pan in the same way, but trimmed off flush with the pan surface. When the pan goes on the proud ends of the timing cover seal crush to make a good firm fit.

This will work on a less than optimal crankshaft surface, but a reground surface will make a perfect seal/

Hope this helps. Allan from down under

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JTT3
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Re: front crank seal

Post by JTT3 » Mon Feb 10, 2025 11:47 am

Brian that tip is brilliant! To be able to achieved that repair in hours verses days is awesome. Best John
Last edited by JTT3 on Mon Feb 10, 2025 9:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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JohnH
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Re: front crank seal

Post by JohnH » Mon Feb 10, 2025 8:54 pm

I use the felt seal that comes with the modern gasket kits. It leaked for a short time then stopped, presumably once the felt had fully saturated. That was 15 years ago and hasn't given any trouble.


SurfCityGene
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Re: front crank seal

Post by SurfCityGene » Tue Feb 11, 2025 1:46 pm

Tom, This improved crank seal Idea that eliminates oil leaks from the front of the engine that drips and blows back covering the rest of the underside was first used and promoted by Orange County and Long Beach T member, Montana 500 Winner Garrett Green!!

There are several different MFG and sizes that will work. It is not required to cut the lip of the seal but you must have clearance. Another way is to use a pair of tin snips and make cuts around the lip and then flatten it out so it looks sort like daisy flower petals. This method provides a very good surface area for the Ultra Black to adhere to the block which sometimes is not perfectly flat.

Chaffins sells a crankshaft modern seal # 3012M. I have used CR seals # 12458 and 11740 among others with No Leaks. I do know one guy that installs this seal inside during engine rebuilds but this makes removing the front cover more difficult and I don't recommend it.

Good Luck eliminating those nasty oil leaks with modern innovative ideas! BTW I've found some new uses for the handy Kotex pads which I change out periodically,,,
1912 Torpedo Roadster

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